32_love

We let the engine warm up as much as it could while stationary and with the head check plugged into the open radiator but I see you're point that it would be difficult to get it to the point where it begins to overheat. The overheating issue only began after the initial problem with the empty radiator. Until then I had driven the car almost daily without any issues (with the gktech fan etc.) I'm beginning to suspect butters may be right and that it's a head gasket issue, just difficult to find the time to work on the car lately. And whether or not it's even worth doing the head gasket etc. on the 20 when I am, extremely slowly, building a 25 for this car.

Can't hurt to try. Thanks

But now that you mention it, I haven't confirmed that the clutch fan is still spinning once the temp starts climbing though. Might do that tonight.

Stock radiator with shroud and gktech clutch fan (which is working). Nismo thermostat but this was installed >5 years ago It had been running fine with these for quite some time until the empty radiator incident.

Have done a few different things. First - Left the car running for 45 minutes with bottle stuck in the open radiator cap and slightly filled the bottle so that the highest point was above the top of the engine. occasionally blipping the throttle until bubbles stopped coming out. Second - Started same as above but left the radiator cap on and cracked the bleed valve on top of the intake plenum until bubbles stopped coming out of there. Did those two a few times. Finally - Basically the same as #2 but drove the car around, brought it back into the garage and cracked the bleed valve until no bubbles. Happy to take suggestions on any other methods I should be trying.

Hi guys, Looking for some help from the brains trust again please. Recently the RB20 in my 32 overheated, I was able to limp it home and discovered absolutely no coolant in my radiator and steam pissing out of the overflow. Since then, I have flushed the block and the radiator. We discovered that the heater box was blocked so until I can replace that we have deleted it by removing the hoses from the firewall and connecting them to each other. Filled up with coolant and demineralised water and have bled it on a number of occasions for 30-60 minutes. Now I can still drive the car but after about 30 minutes the temp guage starts shooting up and I'm at a bit of a loss as to why. The thermostat appears to be working as the lower rad hose does warm up with the rest of the engine. I'm not losing/leaking any coolant. No oil in coolant or vice versa and my mechanic friend has performed a head check which didn't indicate any gasses passing into the coolant. I've also replaced the radiator cap with a brand new GKtech one (which I have happily used on all my cars without issue) At this point I'm considering the following: Running radflush through the radiator and engine. Replacing radiator and thermostat. Anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions? TIA

What an absolute legend. I'll DM you.

Thanks for clarifying GTSBoy! Whatever I get will definitely be measured as I'll be taking the rods and crank in together for balancing. For anyone else that see's this and has a spare RB25 rod or set, hit me up please.

My apologies if this is a stupid question. I need to replace a single conrod on an R33 RB25 series 2 (bearing failure). Without going the forged route, what would be my best option? (I'm finding it difficult to find a set or single series 2 rod) - RB26 rods - Does it matter if they are from 32/33/34? And do I still use my existing pistons? - RB25 rods - Will neo rods work in a series 2? These will be going on a standard 25 crank. Thanks

Hi guys, As mentioned above, I'm chasing an RB25DET crankshaft that isn't damaged. Went to get mine balanced up for a build only to find it was too damaged to be feasible. I am also chasing a single connector rod and harmonic balancer if you happen to have either of these. I'm located in Marsden, 4132 but happy to drive around for the right item/price. Thanks

Updating the list as I've now got a few of the items I needed including the cam gear. Below is what I still need: timing covers (lower) starter motor Harmonic Balancer Dipstick Tube (or advice on any other tube that would be suitable) Heater/Coolant hoses

I'm in the process of rebuilding a S2 RB25DET which is missing a bunch of parts and one of the key bits I'm missing is the VCT Intake Cam Gear (non-neo). I am also chasing the following: timing covers (front upper/lower and rear) starter motor Flywheel Harmonic Balancer CAS Pink Label AFM Dipstick Tube (or advice on any other tube that would be suitable) Water Neck/Outlet Heater/Coolant hoses I'm located in Brisbane, willing to travel up and down the coast or pay shipping for the right product If you've got an ad up that I might've missed send me a link please. Thanks, 32_love

Thanks Robbo, that's some very helpful advice!

Hi all, I hope it's OK to ask these questions in here, I've tried searching and can't seem to find answers to my specific questions. A friend and I recently picked up and RB25DET series 2 and gearbox that we plan on re-building to replace my RB20 running gear but to start off with, the engine did not come with the cam gears and I'd like to know what is my best option in order to replace these? I'd like to keep the VCT functionality so should I just be chasing a stock intake cam gear (as my understanding is aftermarket cam gears will make me lose VCT)? And if so, are these interchangeable with rb25 neo cam gears? Secondly (and I know this has been detailed before but am chasing confirmation), am I better off keeping my RB20 ECU and wiring and getting it nistuned & making the requisite changes to wiring for AFM/VCT etc? Or should I just use the R33 ecu and loom I got with the engine? Finally, should I just keep my RB20 AFM or is it with worth changing up to a pink label rb25 afm? If you think I've missed something here, please let me know. Thanks, 32_love

Just to finish off this post. As per usual, GTSBoy was correct. The stud was welded to the bracket. I was able to remove the bracket as per HardSteppa's comment. The fix ended up being Craig from Threadtech coming out to have a look (3 days before xmas) and fixing it with a hex headed die and a wrench in all of 10 minutes. Really feel like an idiot after all this, but glad to have the car back down on the ground and secure.

Yep, that's my bad re: stud v bolt. Thanks for the clarification. If I have time tonight, I'll get this bracket out and see where I go from there.

Hey guys, I've stuffed up again. While doing, what should have been, a simple front swaybar installation I managed to round the thread for one of the D-bracket bolts. (see pic) I'm now trying to re-thread the bugger but it's in a very difficult spot. I was just wondering if anyone can confirm for me that it's ok to remove this whole bracket that the castor rods mount to so that I will have enough room to spin the die with a hand tool? or am I going at this the complete wrong way? Any help/tips would be appreciated. Note: I'm 99% certain that this bolt is an M10 x 1.25 but if you happen to know better please let me know. Thanks, Aaron

Good evening, I am hoping someone here who knows can direct me to the proper front and rear sway bar D bushes for an R32 with 24mm thick swaybars. SuperPro, Whiteline etc. I don't mind which brand as long as it will FIT. Or some brackets I can buy to replace my own that will suit these bushes. I recently ordered the Whiteline BNK013 kit (heavy duty, front (BNF28Z) and rear (BNR26XZ), 24mm thick swaybars) for my 32. In the package I received, the sway bars appear to be correct, but the D bushes I received for the front do not fit the brackets on my 32, the outside diameter is too large (See below). They have 5093-24 stamped on them and the bag they came in was labelled '3NF24 R33 Skyline'. For comparison, the below pic is the old bush in the bracket I haven't even got to the rears yet but the bag they came in are labelled '3NR26XZ Nissan Silvia'. I'm hoping that it's just interchangeable parts. Has anyone else come across this, or know part numbers/direct links to the right product? Thanks, Aaron

Bump, I'm still after one of these ?

As far as I am aware in QLD the steering wheel must be within 20mm or 30mm +/- the original wheels diameter, must have padding on the spokes, must be 'ADR' compliant, cannot have a flat bottom and as you have mentioned, if it previously had a airbag, then the new one must also. Source: Have been pulled over for an illegal steering wheel about 10 years ago and this is what I was told at the time

Thanks guys, and thanks for the diagram. I'll look into these relays you've mentioned while I replace the switch once I find one. Fortunately, I've gotten this far with my minimal knowledge but this might be a bit over my head but I'll give it a go.

AFAIK 3 out of 4 holes match up when switching seats between S chassis and R chassis. Some people weld on an extra bit to make it work, but I'm not sure if that's legal.

Thanks mate, seems they are out of stock on those at the moment. I did e-mail him though, so hopefully they'll get some more soon. Still chasing a switch if anyone on here has one.

Hi guys, I'm after a headlight switch for an R32. I was able to fix mine when it stuffed up last time but now the cap has melted off one of the pins and I think it might be easier just to replace the unit. If you've got a spare switch (and you know it works) let me know what you're after for it. I'm located in Brisbane, QLD and happy to pay postage for the right item. Regards, Aaron

I have a set 17x9 + 20 on my 32 gtst. They will fit, and they won't hit the coilovers, but you will NEED to remove the inner guards, roll the guard edges, run a bit of camber and I run 235/45 tyres which are a little less than ideal width. I've tried to set mine up with the least amount of camber necessary to keep the wheels a) inside the guards and b) avoid scrubbing, from memory fronts are around 2 - 2.5 on the front and around 1.5 on the rear. I'm currently looking to swap these wheels out for something in the 17x8 range though to make things a little more practical.