R34_Wong

I recently had my girlfriends Honda Civic done at DT for damage done on the drivers side door and I was more than happy with the job. No hassles, no fuss and the car was provided back to me on the arranged time. She had been in another accident earlier, where the rear of the car needed to be repaired and when we got the car back from that panel shop I was shocked to see how poorly it had been carried out. I had to return to that shop 3 times to get the quality job I expected from a place that was highly recommended by the insurance agency and appeared to display professionalism. I'm willing to pop a thumbs up for DT.

My god thats cheap and disgustingly rare. I was looking for one when I had my GTT... would have snapped this up in a heartbeat. Excellent price too, surprised this isn't sold yet! Bump for you. Really makes the car look tough and aggressive....

Hi mate, the get the cluster off is simple. Get a really nice and flat screwdriver and place it on the side of the aircon vents below it. give it a wedge and the part should pop off. You can pull it a bit whilst it is wedged to get it out. Once thats done, there are 2 screws which will now be visible. Simply unscrew these and teh unit till pop out. Unplug the one connecting clip to the unit and you'll be able to have a look around. I'm not sure of the size of the gauges you'll need. If you hit up the DYI section, I'm sure you'll be able to find something with photos as well. GL

Hi mate, Generally it's not too hard to install the Pod. Make sure the pod filter you have actually lines up and fits onto the AFM (all four bolts). The foam piece you're talking about I believe acts like a gasket. Normally they are supplied (Apexi certainly give a blue sheet of it). In all honestly I don't think this is a big deal, but would probably help to reduce any dirt between the gaps being sucked into the engine by making the joins sealed. Another thing to look out for is the metal bracket which will hold the AFM and filter up. Your nomal airbox will be bolted the the engine bay, so now once this is removed, you should have a few screw points on the engine bay to use to mount with. Mount the bracket onto one of those and have the second point secured to one of the bolt points on the AFM. This will ensure the AFM isn't isn't moving around in the engine bay. Good luck mate.

Looks fantastic. I had the Nismo garnish's on mine, but I have to admit that these a very schmick!

Here you go Ash. Ripped from someone else here on SAU.

Garage whenever possible or at least right in the driveway. I got bricked in the windscreen on the one and only time I parked it in the street infront of my house. Remember, theft is one thing, vandalism is another... Plenty of senseless/jealous idiots out there.

Hi everyone, Hoping someone from the NSW division of SAU can help. I need to get a car freighted from Sydney to Melbourne but am unsure of any processes that need to be followed along with costs associated and time it should take. Can anyone recommend a trustworthy freight company. I don't mind paying extra to ensure the car gets down to Melbourne exactly like it was in Sydney. I know some places put cars in Depot's and charge slightly less, but I'm fearful of leaving my car in a place such as that. Anyway, suggestions and opinions most welcome. Thanks in advance.

I was refering to the boost gauge as you mentioned it was a problem with the boost controller (which we still don't know what the problem is other than its faulty...). So what I thought was that if its faulty it probably means its not holding the boost level you want or not dialling it up to the amount you want (which you a probably verifying by looking at the boost gauge). But anyway, looks like you potentially have an idea and I hope it works out. Good luck mate.

Sure its the ECU? Unplugging the battery would also be terminating power to your Boost controller... maybe you've got a faulty boost controller unit? Why do you say its failing to work? As it's an electrical boost gauge, does the metre the stock boost levels or...?

Ouch, that burns my heart! Ah well, got the immediate satisfaction of driving it around I guess... sigh... funny thing is I've still got the MRGTT plates on her !

I recently sold my R34 GT-T and bought myself and R34 V-Spec II in Pearl white. Was completely stock and had 34,000km on the clock with papers to certify (not sure how much thats worth, but I wanted it) Got that for 48k. Ash: It's about time man, oooo yeah!

Thanks Sloutch. As mentioned in my older posts, I only put the car at that price due to the fact that at that time I required an immediate sale. Situations have changed. If you're not interested in buying the car, please don't attempt to swap potential buyers opinions without understanding the full story. Bump again.

A few inspections and offers thrown my way. Keep it rolling

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Sorry mate, way too low. Please PM me offers. Car is making 215kw at 10psi. As stated, all tuning and servicing was done at RE Customs Thanks.

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Forgot to mention that the car also has Splitfire coilpacks, installed roughly 8,000K's ago.

Was messed around by other sellers which ended costing me dearly. Bump

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SOLD

Will also sell. Looking for $600 with rails. Thanks

Looking to trade my Recaro SR3 for a smaller seat. Comes with rail to suit R34 GTT. Preferably it will be a direct change over. The seat is in mint condition with no tears at all. PM me if interested

Price: $25,000ono Please contact me via PM for inspections. Again, selling to upgrade to an R34 GT-R. If you are interested in trading yours + cash your way, please contact me. This has had to be relisted many times now, if you're not interested and don't have the cash then save us both the time. Modifications are: Exterior: Nismo/Altia Bodykit (customised front bar for Intercooler) Nismo Wing Stay Nismo Shaded Side Indicators Nismo Shaded Front Indicators Nismo Carbon Side Garnish Volk SF Challenges (17X9 front, 17X10 rear, 80% tread on Dunlop SP3000's) Factory Xenon Lights Fully Tinted Car Performance: AVC-R (Black Edition) Apexi Power FC Apexi Pod Filter HKS Split Dump, Trust Front Pipe, HKS Hyper Power Cat Back Garrett Turbo Tomei Fuel Pump Nismo FPR ARC Front Mount Cooler HKS Type S Oil Cooler (With Nismo Intake Shroud) C's Short Shifter Interior: Series II (So has the interior makeover, much nicer than 99' models) Nismo Speedo Cluster Nismo Triple Gauge Center Cluster (Voltage, Oil Temp, Boost) Nismo Titanium Shift Knob Recaro SR3 Bucket Seat Alpine Type R speakers all around Sony Headunit Original R34 Floor Mats Handling: HKS HyperMax II Coilovers Cusco Underbody Tension Bar Cusco Rear Strut Bar Cusco Front Strut Bar Cusco Castor Rods ******* Tuned and Serviced at RE-Customs (All papers provided) Suspension Settings done at ProTek Tyres (All papers provided) Registration Until Next Year *******