Wacky Dee

speaking of which .. can the original sender unit be cleaned to make it read correctly or is it gonesky once it starts playing up?

I have this exact same problem with my R34 GTT ... I reckon its a faulty sender unit. I asked Nissan how much for a new one and from memory it was close to $200 yikes but it's been bugging me for so long now I might just try get one from the wreckers just to see if its the actual sender unit (provided I don't get another lemon from the wreckers) How hard is it to remove/replace one of these sender units through the engine bay ? would be a real pain in the bum hey ? the whole thing that you circled in red has to be unscrewed yes ? would oil leak out when you unscrew it?

what's this about harness .. ? I only got standard seat belts. Harness is optional yes?

^^^ what he said. I had the same issue with QFM HP-X pads .. drove me insane. It wasn't until all shims were greased with copper grease carefully that they stopped squealing.

aftermarket steering wheels are illegal and don't have an airbag. Just goto wreckers and get one ..plenty of smashed 34's around.

just PM DAN666 on the forums .. I bought some D2R bulbs off him a while ago and they are perfect. Not sure if he still sells them but worth a shot. Definately don't get 8000k as that's just blue and you will get defected. I think my ones are 6000k which is borderline but doesn't attract atention.

it could be the gasket .. did you damage it during the clean ? if so replace it. Also check that the throttle cable sits correctly .. if it doesn't revs will be up and its easy to miss

Thanks for the tips. Where is the actual sender located ?? Is it easily accessible via engine bay or do you have to remove the oil filter first etc ?

ok thanks guys I'll try doing another oil change soon .. although the motul that was sitting in the car for 6 months was brand new as is the new royal purple. But you never know it might be gunk stuck on the sender. I just hope it's the sender unit and not my actual oil pressure thats out of whack.

aaaaaaaanyone?

any chance you can set them up like the nismo gt leds instead of just circle ?

I think the general consensus is anything above 12psi on the stock R34 turbo and it will fail, just a matter of time when and how bad the damage will be .. I run mine at 11.5 and rarely use that much boost as it's my daily

a mate of mine whose missus is in the navy told me Adelaide is the only place in the world where docking ships NEVER fill up on water due to high calcium content or something like that. So yeah you did the smart thing by not putting that stuff in your engine.

About a year ago I noticed my oil pressure factory gauge showing very low oil pressure as I was driving (about 1kg/cm2) and on warm idle. The next day it went away so I always assumed the sender may have been dodgy. I hadn't driven the car for the past 6 months and only started driving again recently (a week or so) and I've noticed that on cold start the oil pressure gauge shows barely 4kg/cm2 when it used to show 6kg/cm2 on cold idle. When warmed up now it drops to 1kg/cm2 or a bit lower when idle but climbs up to 2.5-3kg when driving under light load. Now I know from reading on these forums and from my mechanic that the oil pressure sensors are notoriously unreliable but I don't want to take any chances and destroy my engine. I've put new oil and filter yesterday (royal purple + nissan filter) and nothing's changed. The car seems to run normally and according to mechanic (Yavuz) the engine sounds healthy and it's most likely a busted sender unit/sensor. But again I'd like to be sure as I've almost stacked it today on the motorway watching the gauge.. So what's the cheapest and easiest way for me to check if it's just the factory sensor that's busted or something more serious ? Few things.. 1) I have a Consult cable + software (datascan) Is it possible to check health of factory sensor using consult/datascan at all ? Like checking the voltages of the oil pressure sensor at certain RPMs or would that be pointless ? 2) I have a slight leak on my rocker cover near the firewall. From what I've found out this is quite common and usually nothing to worry about. Could a rocker cover leak be affecting oil pressure levels at all ?? 3) Does anyone have an accurate oil pressure gauge I could borrow to test my oil pressure ? I don't want to buy one of the cheapies as they can be inaccurate (I know my aftermarket water temp gauge is very inaccurate for example). Nissan wants $250 for a new sender unit so that's kinda out of the question.. How hard is it to attach an aftermarket oil pressure gauge ? Anyone done it? I think I'd need to buy one of those adaptor plates that sit under the oil filter and attach the electrical gauge to that .. how hard would this be considering I've next to no tools or space to work ? Don't wanna make a mess with oil spilling everywhere either Yeah I know ...that's a lot of stuff I've written and asked, just trying to be thorough so you have a good idea of what I'm up against. Cheers Dee

look up the coil packs on ebay ..they list the compatible models. I don't think they're the same coilpacks but I could be wrong.

why are they not sold at repco etc ? Probably because its either a hoax or has not been independantly tested (or was and the results were not so impressive). Either way the video on their web site is interesting but proves very little. A car's engine is slightly more sophisticated than a fly wheel coming into contact with metal. Who knows what the long terms effects of these additives are eg. how it breaks down under constant daily use in a car engine. For all I know it turns your oil into sludge after a few weeks and then you're up for a new engine. While your testimonial sounds impressive, you have 2 posts so it means nothing as you could be some desperate seller who bough a truck load of these, found out they're rubbish and are now trying to get rid of them. No offence.

I thought you couldn't get defected if you had an engineers cert ? If you can doesn't that make them utterly useless?

how large? it's probably just the format .. there are free windows apps that can let you compress it into mpeg4/xvid and stuff of that sort which should bring down the size quite considerably (just think how 'intarwebz moviez' are 700mb for 2 hours) wish this was on this comin weekend ..I always miss these big sau events by a few days ;/

this would probably be a good idea to introduce yourself and the car to teh fuzzzz

I have a GTT with 18x8.5 +35 front and rear wheels ... they fit nicely with no scrubbing whatsoever. Having said that rears could probably go a little wider ie. 18x9.5 +40 or so would look completely flush and probably require no guard rolling at all

BRRRAAAAAIINZZZZZ..........HURRRRRT

it takes 9 litres for the whole system but you will struggle to get even 3l in there unless you properly flush the whole cooling system (there's a few threads about that too) Don't forget to bleed the air.

never mix 2 different coolants though. 10l of the 30% premixed Nulon coolant costs about $20 .. just buy 2.

It wont do any damage just for flushing purposes. One thing though and this is personal preference, don't use freezing cold tap water between flushes (when the engine is hot) I'd put warm tap water in when flushing. What I did to mine was as suggested above and then i diluted the water in the system by flushing another 5 times or so with (premixed) coolant until I was certain it was only the coolant mix left in there at the correct concentration.

dilute dilute dilute .. if it's really as dirty as you say, flush atleast 6-7 times by running the car until warmed up then unplug the drain on the radiator (near bottom hose) Use tap water to do that until it becomes clear, then put in your coolant mix. Make sure that your heater is turned on full blast while doing it. Don't forget to bleed the air afterwards.