Wacky Dee

just waiting for my splitfires to arrive and a date with unigroup ... I'm gonna do the same as you (same boost as well..11.5psi sometimes 12max depending on weather I guess) Good to hear you're not having any issues. What did you use to check the gap on the new plugs? I checked with repco and they had those feelers but max .8mm or so (5 different kinds all maxed out at under 1mm)

I'm not wrecking my car, what's for sale is listed in the first post. Call O'briens.

R34 GTT and GTR tail lights are exactly the same, but yeh they're from a GTT. Only the external plastic cover (the painted bit) is slightly wider on GTR, but I'm not selling that.

yeah um its been $550 for a few months now plus approx. $150 in shipping fees I'm trying to get a diffuser made up ..its just the bottom portion of the eastbear lip (the one with the 2 bumps) and it's about 2cm high which would suit me perfectly. Was quoted about $300 but the seller (EmpireAero ...JSAI??) isnt responding

no probs mate ... have you tried taping them up as a temporary fix ?

AFM sold. Coil packs sold pending confirmation. The rest is still available.

found the BCPR7ES-11's at local repco just down the road .. woops, shoulda checked there first $31 for 6, all goodah

I've had heat range 6 and 7 in my 190rwkw R34 .. 7's give a slightly better fuel eco I think but apart from that they're both about the same. Unigroup were encouraging me to stick with 7s at this power level and I think they know what they are talking about. I'd give the 6s a miss unless your skyline is completely stock. Johnny which ones are you talking about, the BCPR7ES-11's ?

and this is why you should never run anything but high quality PULP like BP Ultimate. If you seriously put an E10 blend in your skyline you should be shot.

dude if the wheel centre is bigger than the hub you should get the hub rings immediately and not drive around with the wheels resting on your studs .. thats why you hear of wheels flying off cars every once in a while killing someone. If you've been driving it like that for a while I'd probably get the studs replaced as they're most likely stressed now and will break eventually. I have NO IDEA why they/you think the wheels being new makes any difference in that regard. It's nothing to do with wheels being new or old, you don't want the wheel resting on your studs. My DTM wheels left a small 2-3mm gap around the wheel hub but I put hub rings immediately and they fit on perfectly.

hey Steve, on my 34 the car misses on idle when the gap is 0.8 with the copper plugs .. 1.0 gap and no worries. Hamish, I actually WANT to use a 1.1 gap for better combustion/power/fuel eco .. One of the reasons I got the splitfires.

Its been sold and no its not an xbox360 + halo3

stock xenon bulbs are 4300k ... I put 6000k on mine as they have a slight blue tinge. 8000k is noticably bluish it's just that people get used to them and think they're not

hey mate the coil packs will be avilable in a week or 2 ..still need to put the splitfire's in. Is that ok? Free shipping if you can wait

I just thought since they're shorter (the BKR's) they may not sit inside far enough and may not ignite the mixture as well.. probably not though

whats the best way to measure the gap ? might just order 30 or so from ngk directly ..should last me 3 years atleast

I could but I'd prefer not to ..we're talking fractions of a milimeter and I'm not sure I trust any mechanic to gap all 6 of them accurately. I'd prefer them in that gap size from factory ...also less risk of the tip being damaged etc during regap. Having said that ..even though NGK.com.au doesn't show BCPR7ES-11 in their parts list there appear to be plenty of shops that sell them (googled it) ..wtf?

Putting in splitfires soon and wanted to put NGK BCPR7ES-11's in (the ones that come in 1.1mm gap from factory) but apparently NGK dont make these ... they make BCPR6ES-11 and BKR7ES-11 but NO BCPR7ES-11 What gives? The BKR type of plugs are 2.5mm shorter than the others so I'm not sure I want those in there .. any particular reason why NGK would have chosen not to make BCPR7ES-11 that anyone can think of ?

Coil packs have done 75,000 Kms and will suit an RB25DET NEO and some others (check splitfire SF-DIS-008 compatibility for other vehicles as they are the same. All working and no misfire, only upgrading to Splitfires as I want to slowly upgrade the supporting mods for bigger turbo later on.. $200 for the set (6) Also available R34 GTT/GTR tail lights - no damage/scratches. $300 for the pair. R33/R34 AFM in working condition (pink label) - factory item, great replacement if your factory one has crapped itself. $100 Factory R34 radiator - fair condition with the usual bent fins (most can be straightened out if you can be bothered) here and there but no holes or other damage. May require professional flushing / top tank replaced as condition inside is unknown. (professional flush/top end replacement is about $100) - Asking $150 All parts except radiator can be shipped australia wide. Located near Newtown in Sydney. Any questions, please post them here.

if it's not enclosed then the pod may be getting heatsoaked and your turbo is sucking in hot enginebat air instead of the cooler ambient air as with a stock airbox...which could explain it

does the plazmaman plenum actually make a difference in response or is it all about uncluttering the engine bay and not having a bigass pipe run back accross the top of the fan ?

should be plenty as most normal batteries are around 300... you can't have too many CCA's

isn't that extra air supposed to go out the wastegate or be recirculated back into the intake ?

was quoted $1150 for an R34 GTT nistune + dyno tune .. considering they're $260 seemed kinda excessive. What has everyone else paid for a dyno tune with their nistune ? Car's pretty much stock ..just the turbo back exhaust and a bit of extra boost (11.5psi)

Ok I've never heard of the term "pfc disease" and I've been into this stuff for 2 years now.. Not even google brings up anything on "powerfc disease". So if it's a term you came up with, congrats. But it might be more helpful to actually explain what you mean to begin with than be fancy and make up stupid phrases that have no meaning whatsoever. Why would the air be going the wrong way ? Is this something that can be fixed/adjusted or is it normal ? Please no more disease talk.