Wacky Dee

I thought mine was dead a few months back ..recharged slowly over night and no issues since. Worth a try.. Other than that, get any decent SEALED battery eg. red top optima. The more CCA's the merrier.

no probs, if anyone else is interested let me know

its not modded but from memory can be made into a HTPC etc quite easily/cheaply

stock bov..could it have anything to do with a slightly dodgy wastegate or actuator ??

the guy that tuned it (Toshi) has done a lot of skyline for sau members ... what are you saying that he doesn't know what he's doing and ignition timing is not right or what?

Thanks Richard .. are there any others ppl here used ? I remember the link I saw was pretty impressive web site and the reports were extremely detailed about contaminations ie. normal/expected levels and detected levels of each different metal/alloy and their meanings ie. suggested possible issues and how to rectify etc

I don't have a pfc .. stock ecu with daughterboard (remapped) I'll keep an eye on the maf voltage .. what should it be ? could it be a problem with the maf wiring ?

I remember someone posting a link to a company which I think was in Melb ..basically you buy a small pack on their web site incl. a bottle that you store your used engine oil in and send to them for analysis. They then send you back a written report showing how much of different crap they've found in your oil ie. how much engine wear that is. I remember seeing a member post this ..the report looked quite detailed and showed all the contaminants etc. I believe it was about $30-40 all up. Does anyone know what the company's url is ??? Just want to see how much engine is wearing and how good the Motul 300V is doing its job ..

small claims tribunal costs nothing .. I'm sure they'd pay up to avoid bad publicity if you had expert opinions (and xrays) that it was their bolt that failed under normal conditions.

Um couldn't you simply sue Nissan for the damages if you can prove, with xrays and whatnot, that it was their genuine bolt that snapped due to shoddy QC ?

you mean the aac valve? I was gonna clean it ..opened it up and noticed it looked as new inside so left it.

yeah not interested in wentworthville ... had a mate who lived there, true ghetto. Mainly central Paramatta .. just still not sure which parts are good. So far North Paramatta is off the list. But where IS Nth Parra ..north of Victoria Rd sort of?

take it back to whoever serviced it and ask for an explanation. No point in anyone here guessing, they would know what they've done to the car and what could cause those issues.

I've noticed that if say the car is idling and I blip the throttle (say to 2-3rpm) for just a second and let go .. as the rpm drops down to 700-750 (normal idle) it shudders for a second. I never knew what that was but with consult connected and watching the various sensors ..I noticed after the blip, the timing falls down to 0 as rpm reduces to 750 and then quickly goes back to 5deg or whatever and this is where it shudders/shakes..between the 0 and 5 (normal) idle timing. What could this be a sign of ? Coilpack issues ? Ingition related ? Bad timing map/tune ?

the new bolt that snapped was a genuine nissan bolt made for the idler pulley specifically ??

I've checked the WD web site earlier today, 4 of the drives have 2 year warranty and 1 has 3 years warranty left on it. So shouldn't be an issue getting them replaced if you decide to hook them up to another sata controller. I'm in camperdown (sydney)

I meant for rent ..not buying for another year or so

$150 ? need this gone

hey guys they didn't sell ... One issue with the drives though that I found out. Since I had them connected to this raid controller their internal firmware has switched on staggered start up or something which means these drives now only work with this particular raid controller but not with normal sata controllers. It cannot be reversed. This is a fault acknowledged by Western Digital and I believe they have about 2 years of warranty left in them so WD would most likely replace them for new drives. I can't be stuffed sending them in so if anyone wants them for $100 they're all yours. Otherwise I'll contact WD and get them replaced and they will be up for sale for $150 again. Just to clear up one thing .. they DO work but only when connected to a highpoint raid controller. I have the controller to go with them for sale if anyone wants to buy the lot for $400. The raid controller (highpoint rocketraid 2320) itself still sells for $500 in most stores. Please PM me if interested.

5:45 AM ..finally finished reading this thread. It's been an interesting read ...much like a good car action movie without Nicholas Cage in it, albeit a 6-7 hours long one. Congrats on the final outcome mate, sounds awesome. One quick question before I head off to sleep .. this has been bugging me for the past 5 hours or so. 1 + 1 = window. Someone please explain that to me (in a way that you would to a retarded child)

which part of paramatta do you live in Ben ? I may have to actually rent an apartment there now as I can't find anything in the area I wanted so might as well rent in parra for a year before I buy something .. which areas/surrounding suburbs of parramatta should I avoid ??

I got my rear bar and side skirts from them ... fittment wise, rear bar was spot on and the side skirts were not... they managed to crack the side skirts in a couple of places right on the corners and just glued it on plus there were some gaps (and still are) on the side skirts .. but unless you're fussy, it's a minor issue. Having said that, they completely butchered the PAINT .. it was an absolute joke and I had to have them resprayed at my own cost. This is also when they showed their true colours... so no, I would not recommend them at all. If you have to use them, I'd only get their stuff if you can trial fit it and DON'T get them to fit/paint because they will f**k it up. They have a big warehouse where they trial fit but won't even let you walk in there to check the fittment citing insurance blah blah ..load of nonsense, just a way to hide any dodgyness in the fittment. They were happy for me to walk in and have a look at the rear bar trial fit as it was spot on from factory (luck of the draw I guess) but for the side skirts ..nah sorry mate you gotta stay outside. Dodgy.

its common but not everyone does it because its not locally made ... but from what I've read it's better than anything locally made. Alarms are not defectable.

it makes a big difference to sound yes

define 'full' ... That shit's heavy and will add a lot of unnecessary weight if you put it in the roof and all the other stuff. Just get the doors and boot (if putting in a sub) dynamatted or do it yourself. Shit's expensive too, not just heavy. Before, after doesn't matter ..whenever it's cheaper (probably during stereo install)