Wacky Dee

Oh sorry, didn't realize I had to get your approval before posting a comment. It's a discussion forum so there's a discussion relating to thefts, get it ? Your opening post is still up there and no one's gonna miss it, if anything further comments only ensure it stay near the top and doesn't get buried in a day or so. So chill the f**k out.

Oh well, if you've done everything you can and it still gets stolen, what the f**k can you do ?? That's what insurance is for. I don't have contempt for the victims I'm not sure what gave that impression. I've just seen too many instances of skylines being stolen and then posts on SAU like this one and when asked about alarm / insurance its usually "oh I was about to do it soon". In the end, what the f**k is anyone here going to do about it ? It's a matter for the police and even they have close to no chances of finding it if it's gone straight to a chop shop. On a related note .. GPS tracking isn't so expensive anymore. I paid about $500 extra for a simcard module that sends me an sms if alarm is triggered plus I can track it to within 50m of its location. Something for everyone to consider if their car is irreplacable. Look I'm not trying to be unsympathetic but I'm not sure what purpose threads like this serve .. are we all supposed to be on the look out for the 20 odd skylines stolen every month ?? Unless its a joyride theft, chances are it will never been seen by anyone again and your only recourse is to go through the insurance company and hope they pay out. And then consider additional security such as gps tracking before getting another one.. I hope the OP finds his car but I'd say chances are slim.

Oh yes, yes it does. It's the biggest factor when it comes to car thefts. Why do you think imports are knocked off in bogan areas on an almost daily basis ? Look at the shire in Sydney .. leave an import out of sight for 2 hours and you can say good bye to it. Don't even get me started on outter west / southwest Sydney with a million unemployed bogans.

You missed my point entirely ... all I'm saying is you gotta make some sacrifices if you want to own a thief magnet type of car. Just common sense really. As for your case in regards to the alarm installer .. that's just bad luck. I did a lot of research before I chose who installs my alarm system, but yeah if you run into scum like that that's just bad luck. Lithium ..parking it off the street where a tow truck can't get to it would be a start. I never park mine anywhere on the street unless it can't be helped. Also not living in a shitty part of the city helps because not everyone is pre occupied with how to steal cars or f**k people over in general. Pays to pay a bit more and live in better areas... As for turbo timer, my understanding is that's why better alarms such as Autowatch have those BUILT IN to the alarm/immobiliser, not a separate unit. smidy, so did you have an immbiliser or not ? where was the car parked ? I highly recommend you think long and hard about what you tell your insurance company ... from some of what I've read I think you might be in for a rude shock.

It helps if you switch it ON...or not use a $150 one that every kid knows how to disarm. All black wiring Autowatch is about $400 installed. I wanna see someone crack one of those in under 2-3 hours (without anyone spotting them) But on a more serious note, if you live in an area known for car thefts and other petty crimes, don't leave the car parked on the street or a tilttray truck may come and pick it up regardless of immobiliser. Blame anyone you want, but I'm shopping for a new apartment right now and I've had to skip over a few great places because either 1) they don't have a lockup garage or 2) have a carspace only accessible by anyone I could have saved tons of money and got myself a nice cheap apartment with street/carspace parking but then I'd be here soon whining how someone stole my skyline. At least you were insured, count yourself lucky.

alarm ? immobiliser ? seriously when will people learn..

not sure about the rest but water temp with thick radiator sits at 86C cruising ... r34 thermostat opens at 82 so that's normal (bit lower for R33s as the ts opens at 76)

imo the only way to tastefully pull off black + white is with atleast black wheels, mirrors and bonnet .. just boot or bonnet or mirrors on its own looks like you were in an accident and bought a new part that hasnt been painted yet..

is it normal for a skyline to hesitate a bit when switching gears or is that a sign of a coil pack(s) on its way out ?

one bleed screw is near the firewall / AAC valve and the other at the opposite end..you need to take the engine cover off. There's a small warning do not open when hot type of label near both. As for the rest yeah pretty much like that ..just make sure the bottle is lodged in firmly. I'd highly recommend taking a few minutes and taping it all up nicely and make it leak proof otherwise coolant will escape and make a mess OR try to modify the bottle opening so that you can actually jam it into the radiator opening firmly I let it run for about 20 mins and bigass bubbles were still coming out every few second..I gave up from tiredness as I was holding the bottle down myself and hot coolant was leaking because I couldnt hold it steadily any longer. I'd say 30 mins or so and they should all come out.

there are 2 on R34s ..1 on R33s I wouldn't waste time with the bleed screws ..its messy. In order for air to come out the coolant has to flow through the engine, once it starts flowing it will be hot and it WILL be pouring out of the bleed screws. Just bleed from the bleed screws for a few minutes before coolant starts flowing .. then switch to bottle. Most of the air will come out of the radiator through the bottle once the coolant becomes hot and starts flowing through the engine.

hm it seems JJR and YellowJackets don't sell any coil packs for R34 GTT's where as SuperSpark do ... I used to think they are all the same chinese coilpacks rebranded but doubt it anymore. If Supersparks were made in the same place as the others, the other sellers would have R34 GTT coilpacks for sale by now. But anyway ..only a $50 difference between Superspark and Splitfire so might as well go Splitfire if you have an R34 GTT/Stagea (NEO motor)

you guys should try and offer more variety for R34 GTTs Anyone who comes up with a nice lip for GTTs to suit stock bumpers will do well I reckon

the only problem is its a bit messy too ..you have to hold the bottle down hard so coolant doesnt escape around the area where bottle meets radiator cap opening...Best to use some sort of plumbers tape and seal it all up properly I reckon The problem with the bleed screws is as soon as the coolant starts flowing ..it will start pouring out through the bleed screws and creates a mess in the engine bay.

Thanks mate appreciate your feedback..anyone else?

http://bodyformaero.com.au/catalog/index.php email those guys and ask .. they sell it too and from what I've read before they make great quality bars. I like JJ but they're not really a company I'd go to for a bodykit ..their bodykit stuff is cheap yumcha crap from what I saw in store AND was told by one of their staff to not bother with it when I was there buying some other stuff a year ago. I recently inquired about the TS from bodyform and they said they're making them locally ..and if you search on sau, all glowing reviews I think ..plus cheaper than JJ for the fake yumcha TS.

sorry, but that is THE worst front bar I've seen on an R34 so far ... it makes veilside/bomex look like a work of art

Does anyone know where the Splitfires are actually manufactured ? Is it Japan ? Set of splitfires on ebay is $600 yet the market's been flooded with all these yumcha $300 coilpacks resold under various brands .. I believe they ALL probably come from the same chinese manufacturer. Justjap sell them, performance-wise sells them and there are a few different companies on Ebay that sell them and each one gives them a different brand name but to me they look the same. Some are different colours but I think that's just part of a ploy to try and fool consumers into thinking they're from different manufacturers. Anyway, what's everyones experience been with these Yumcha coil packs that sell for $300 on Ebay ? I've read some good but also a few negative posts where they either came DOA or one or more coilpacks died after only a short time.

its f**king crazy just HOW MUCH air is stuck in the cooling system ... I just had to drain my coolant (was fixing an issue with a radiator bracket that was preventing it from seating correctly) today and decided to try something I read the other day. Namely, took a 2l Coke bottle, cut the bottom off and then filled up the radiator through it with coolant but it was still half full. Left the car running and held the bottle like that with all that coolant sitting there and radiator cap obviously open ... The amount of bigass air bubbles that came out in the following 20 mins as the coolant circulated is un-fricking-believably .. not tiny bubbles, BIG ASS MOFO BUBBLES ..atleast a 100 of them. I highly recommend this air bleed technique now ... using bleed screws is stupid and messy and doesn't get out one tenth of the air that this method did.. The car doesnt run any cooler than it did before ..still 86C driving, but atleast I know there arent massive air bubbles in my block anymore that could create hotspots and we all know where that leads...

You did mention the dash water gauge started moving above middle and that only happens around 110-115C or so.. When mine was 100C it was still UNDER the midway mark. And yes water and oil temps are closely related. Water/coolant cools the engine .. if it can't cool it properly your oil temps go up as well. Just get a Consult cable and download some free software ..plug it in to your laptop and go for a drive and you'll know the water temps. You can get a consult cable for $75 from http://ecutalk.com/interface.aspx or if you're in Sydney, you can borrow mine.

I should add I'm no engine or cooling expert ..this is just all the stuff I've learnt over the past month or so, so take it with a grain of salt if you will but I'm sure most peeps would agree with all of the above.

yes most likely a blocked radiator or your cooling fins are so dirty/blocked that air can't get through it in sufficient quantity..or the fins are bent or a combination of all of those. In other words, its an old radiator that's taken a beating and had a gazillion bugs and road dirt thrown at it....refurbishing it can take time and money and it might still not work anywhere as good as it did when it came out of the factory. Larger radiator will just cool the water more quickly once the thermostat starts opening ie. once water reaches X degrees (82 for NEO and 76 for other RBs). Bigger rad will cool the coolant better too ie. to lower temps, so your water intake will be colder (not cold, just colder than a smaller radiator) which is good for your engine internals. And no, it won't affect your warm up times at all..that's why the thermostat is there, it's shut until the water reaches certain temps and only then fresh new (colder) water from the radiator is pumped through the engine..

The factory radiator will do the job if its not blocked and the cooling fins are not blocked or bent ... I couldn't justify paying $150 to clean my 11yo radiator plus I couldn't be stuffed trying to straighten out the 5% or so of bent fins. It's a pain in the ass to do as they're so brittle and you have to do 1 by one slowly..Plus I like shiny new things If money's tight ..get the factory radiator cleaned out. If it's blocked the top tank will probably need to be replaced which is about $40 ..but all up it shouldn't be more than $150. Thing is, for $200 more you can get a thicker radiator that is guaranteed to not be blocked, have all nice straight fins, 3 cores instead of 1 and it just cools better..

Oh and another thing .. if I were you, I'd make this a priority. 110C is NOT anywhere near healthy. Couple more degrees and you'll boil the coolant (and it will evaporate quickly) and you'll end up with a blown engine. Mine only reached 100C and I was getting nervous already .. Justjap have those 40mm aluminium radiators in stock if you decide to go down that path .. tell 'em Denis with the black 34 sent ya ;D

Mate I've been through this recently myself ..'98 R34 GTT. Changed the thermostat, no change. Flushed coolant, bled everything, no change. Finally got fed up with temps getting up to 100C regardless of driving in traffic or highway so I dished out $340 for a new radiator. Now she sits at 86c cruising and about 87c in traffic. The factory radiator fins were all clogged with crap so I'd estimate only about 50% efficiency was all I was getting. If money's tight or you would like to keep the stock radiator, just take it out and hose out the crap out of the fins so that air can flow through it. Your radiator may also be blocked internally if you or previous owner used tap water and to get it cleaned professionally and top tank replaced is only about $150. I opted for a new 40mm aluminium radiator and couldn't be happier. $340 for a 40mm and I'll betcha she'll drop atleast 25c or so to around 85-86 like mine did. I'd bought a bottle of that 'watter wetter' Redline crap as well but haven't yet chucked it in. There's just not enough proof that this stuff actually does anything positive. Yes, it may make the water/coolant appear cooler but that could be due to the fact that its reducing contact (and hence cooling) with all the hot engine internals - which is opposite of what they claim it does. I'm yet to see PROOF that engine internals are actually cooler due to this additive and not just the coolant. Plus I read in at least a handful of places of people noticing it leaving some sort of sludge in the cooling system as it breaks down. Oh and in regards to fan spinning ... yeah mine looked a bit sus too although mechanic said it was fine, I thought f**k it ..might as well and changed the fan clutch as well just to be on the safe side (only $210 brand new). PS. R34 thermostats only starts to open at 82C so 85-87 is quite normal and optimal for the NEO engines. The older 25s thermostats opens at 76.5 so people might think even 86-87 is too hot but its not. NEO likes a touch more heat in it