Wacky Dee

In regards to diff type ..not sure if this helps, from the workshop manual:

how does one change the diff oil on the GTT? How often ? If anyone has a guide please post Cheers

have a look at NZMO's GTR frontend conversion .. looks incredible, you'd never think it's an RB25 underneath Oh and the Ztune bonnet ... but .. as you'd expect, it wasn't cheap.

hey Dave, I assume you mean thermostat? Got a new Nissan OEM one which opens at 82C (bit higher than R33s etc but normal for R34 GTTs) had to cancel on the injector thing ..been feeling sick as last few days, some food poisoning or stomach bug..Will reschedule asap though.

grind it off I reckon ..who needs arms when you've got 4 wheels Oh yeah, what jaspar said ... bigger wheels = smaller profile tyres. Your rolling radius must be kept to within 3% of the original iirc.

from the description of the 'uniqueness' of the car and the fact its an R32 GTST makes one wonder what the f**k would anyone steal it for ... risk jail for a banged up skyline that's pushing 20 ? I'll keep an eye out for ya around newtown but I'm sure it's being chopped as we speak ..car like that would attract way too much attention to be on the road.

will do ... probably take a couple of weeks as I don't drive much so won't know if/how much it affects fuel economy etc. Besides my car's been running unusually well (heaps more responsive down low) ever since I changed my radiator and fan clutch recently so I dunno if I'll be able to tell the difference even if there is any in terms of response. Speaking of which, I'm not sure if it's the new rad and/or fan clutch that are making my car run so much better or the fact that one of the mechanics at some point forgot to put 2 of those rocker dust cover bolts back in near the firewall and I've had a shitload of coolant leak in there all over my coilpacks/sparkplugs during bleeding. I'm sure it's dried off since but yeah that's when it started running so much better...at first it was rough and lumpy, then a while later ..like a new car, weird huh.

I got them through SydneyKid via the now-defunct groupbuy... These were valved a bit differently (harder) from memory. Honestly .. I wouldn't bother, just get yourself a nice set of adjustable coilovers and be done with it. Tein SS (oz spec) or HSD ones seem to be popular. Easier to install and adjust ..and probably just as good in terms of handling and ride comfort as the Bilsteins.

I'm not using stock shocks ..if you read above I think I mentioned it more than once, they're Bilstein shocks with extra circlips on them so the height is adjustable up/down in .8cm intervals

took it back to up the rears another 2 circlips (about 1.6cm) When I brought it in they were both 330mm. He apparently upped both sides another 2 circlips and now I come home and right hand side is 340mm and left side 348. Wtf ?!? Is it possible the rhs settled 8mm or so on the drive back (about 40Kms) and the left hand side will settle the same a bit later on ?? Also even though I didn't notice it while driving, when I push on the boot and get the rear bouncing I can hear a loud squeaky noise. Could that be the new rear sway bar tightened too much ?? The new bushes were all greased up properly.... Oh well atleast they didn't charge me anything. I guess I'll measure again in a couple of weeks and see.

ok Ive booked in this guy for thursday ($330 with him taking the injectors out and putting back in) will let you know how it goes.. M R J Mobile Injectors (Sydneywide)0407 664 531Send this listing to your mobileMobile Service Carlingford NSW 2118

I'm pretty sure he measured it after driving it around the block and he said it was 340 which is bs .. it's 330 spot on, both sides. Yeah the first place did rip me off ..but that was a year ago and my Bilsteins were MIA for 5 months and this was the only opportunity to get my hands on them so I just wanted to be done with it. The 2nd shop that I referred to was doing springs/swaybars last week..

the rears wheels are just slightly under the wheel arches ..not what I wanted. 345 (340 with sag) woulda given me perfect rim fit without that dumped look .. I know it's 1cm but it makes a big difference to looks and more importantly the rest of the geometry and ride quality. They could only get rear camber to -1.75 when I asked for -0.5 to -0.75 .. hopefully when they jack it back up to 345 I'll get -1.0 camber at the rear.

that ztune frontbar will touch the road unless your front shocks are at their stock height (375mm?) Looks good but very impractical ..and being fibreglass, won't last long unless you are extremely careful.

that 1st place claimed it took them 8 hours to change the shocks..lower the car 2cm (on stock) springs + $130 or so for alignment that I witnessed and it took literally 30 seconds with no machines used just those manual devices that measure camber. I just called this 2nd place about the 330mm rear and he goes "oh I measured it ..it was 340, must have settled then". How the hell do the springs settle 1cm in under 50kms or is it actually possible ??? I was expecting to get .5cm sag in maybe a month or close to 500-600Kms driving BUT NOT 1cm in my return trip home. I reckon he's just full of shit and wants to use that as an excuse to charge me to up the springs to 345 as originally requested.

This is the 2nd highly recommended suspension specialist I've been to that has left me fuming ... I'm not gonna namy any names, but first one quoted $600 for shock install and alignment and billed me $1000. Did a very half assed job on alignment and didnt install dust covers that I paid for and also the bump stops as it turns out were just some old one they found in the scrap bin.. This 2nd one quoted $440 and billed $530 .. and the best f**king thing of all, I asked for 355mm front and 345mm rear (new springs with existing bilsteins .. new swaybars) and was told while at the shop when it was done fronts were 350 and rears 340 ..I thought f**k it, that's close enough. I get home take out a measuring tape and the rears are 330. FFS. Now I have to go back (80min travel each way) and they will probably want to bill me some more to fix their own f**king mistake. Speaking of which .. when they at first didnt get the front height correctly instead of taking the shocks out and pressing the springs onto the correct circlip groove, they just used crowbars with the shocks/springs fully installed and somehow managed to push em up. But it looked so dodgey and I'm not sure wtf if anything they could have damaged doing that. Anyway ..these are 2 of the most highly regarded/recommended suspension places in Sydney. Both are f**king f**ktards. </rant>

Don't think there's any difference between any of them as long as you get the correct viscosity and change it regularly. Having said that I've got Motul Chrono 300V in mine ... cause I like to spoil my car

that looks awesome Mick! It must be really hard to see at night thugh ? I'm really glad I didn't go any lower than 20% on the fronts as its too dark as it is..maybe my eyesight is just shite

not sure but iirc I've read here before that if a vac hose or intercooler hose comes off it can increase the idle like that?? Check all your hoses and clamps

get the Nulon Pre-Mixed (green) coolant ..I paid $20 per 5l canister just the other day. Don't just top up. If you've got an hour or 2 I'd highly recommend taking out the factory radiator and hosing the fins down (carefully) mine was completely blocked with bugs and dirt.

I know I'd need to take out the radiator, fan clutch and the alternator belt etc and also the plastic timing belt cover .. but what else is involed in replacing the water pump on an RB25det NEO (R34 GTT) ?? Does the timing belt have to come off to replace the wp ? anything else ? Mine's still working and all but I've recently replaced the rest of the cooling system and I dont think my wp was changed when the dealership where I got the car changed the timing belt.. PLUS, I've broken one of the 4 studs that hold the fan clutch attached to it when replacing the fan clutch. So I thought might as well change the wp as I dont think it has been changed.. But knowing most mechanics quote 4 hours to change wp I can only guess its connected to the timing belt in some way and I wouldnt feel comfortable with mucking around with the timing belt

that front bar doesn't line up at all .can you see the gap on the front wheel arch ?

I would never put ethanol blends in my skyline. Or any stuff from a crappy looking United servo... they're usually privately owned small operators and I wouldn't trust them to keep clean fuel. With BP you know they have a high turnover so the fuel is never old plus they won't mix shit in like water to make a quick profit because the operators know BP would hang them by their balls if they were to damage to their brand's reputation. Also BP refines their petrol to 98RON, it doesn't add chemicals to it to make it 98 like Shell, United and the rest.

carmate = fail carmate + fibreglass frontbar = EPIC fail. Your choice. I wouldn't put a fibreglass frontbar on as they're too brittle ..it will crack first time you hit one of those parking bumps.

no and no, stick with BP.