Wacky Dee

Thanks guys I've already spoken to Race Brakes a while ago and asked about caliper piston and master cylinder reconditioning and was told they send em away to get done which made me think they don't actually specialize in reconditioning but rather proper brake upgrades ie. new calipers etc

I think you'll find most people like the Impul kit as it's not too over the top and looks nice in any colours, especially lighter colours.. As for wheels, there's just too many to choose from and you should pick something out that YOU like not other forum members. Check out the DTM rims in the trader section ..they're cheap and always look nice IMO.

and once again someone pretends to be a chick online ..and it works beautifully. I asked where I can BUY a pod box 2 months ago ...no reaction. Bastards.

When you say 'good master cylinder' do you mean a bigger than stock one or just one with no internal leaks etc ? I def need a new master cyl but its friggin exxy ($420 from rhdjapan.com) as mine's got some internal leaks (pedal sinks very slowly if you hold it pressed down) .. plus my piston seals definately need to be replaced as one of my pistons was seized up at last pad change. Seeing as how you are a Sydneysider, can you recommend anyone to do my brakes ? ie. put new seals in (I can get new oem ones from japan for about $120 total front and back) + new master cylinder and PROPER bleed. Speaking of which, is it possible/necessary to bleed the ABS system ?

thanks mate that really helps I've already figured out that my ecu factory sender was OK ..my cooling system temps have come down significantly since upgrading radiator/fan clutch. My aftermarket gauge is still WAAAY off though but I just remembered I did one hell of a hack job on the power/earth connection to the actual gauge as the original connector broke and I had to improvise. Will need to fix that and I reckon the aftermarket gauge will be spot on just like the ecu one. Cheers

I get what you're saying but I woulda thought a short shifter would allow you to shift without missing a shift ..where most of the crunching is done and damage to synchros. ie. with a short shifter you could still shift SLOWLY but it wouldn't be such an annoyance as the throw is shorter... ah well, just an idea albeit a pretty weak one

on that note .. maybe some shockproof lightweight + one of those ebay shortshifters would be a good idea? You get easy shifts due to oil and you can shift faster without damaging the synchros any further since it's a much smaller throw to put into gear ?? That way your worn/factory box will last as long as possible AND feel great... Just an idea

um yeah get 5% if it's a show car never driven on the street ... my 34 came with the factory privacy rear windscreen and quarters..I believe they're about 20-25% and PLENTY dark. I put 20% on the front windows and it's pretty dark... hard to see sometimes at night in badly lit streets. So I'd say no less than 20% if you wanna be able to SEE through your windows properly. If you want to keep it legal, then 35% on the fronts.. If you're in Sydney there's this greek guy who comes to you ...Zanos or something like that. He did a pretty good job on mine and he's cheap. But he's a bit messy / not shy with the water when he works which kinda pissed me off

210F = 99C = too high My R34 GTT was running at 99C just the other day when ambient was 25C or so .. just putting it around town. Flushed old coolant, put new coolant in, bled the system .... no change. Put a new thermostat ... no change. Put a new 40mm aluminium radiator + new fan clutch in ... BIG CHANGE. Now she's sweet running around at 85-86C which I've read is IDEAL for the R34 NEO. The thermostat on the NEO opens at 82 so it's meant to run a little bit hotter than your standard rb25det (R33). Now the only thing I'm contemplating is whether to chuck in that bottle of Redline WatterWetter in there as well ... but from reading all the reviews, its inconclusive if this stuff actually cools better OR if it inhibits cooling and as such just keeps coolant temps down giving a false sense of cooling. Plus a couple of people reckoned it leaves some sort of SLIME in the cooling system as it breaks down...

but isn't that part of the water pump itself? Doubt any wreckers would let me take off only a pulley ..and they'd probably charge close to new nissan wp price (asked about a fan clutch just the other day and they wanted $150 when a brand new one is $210) Another reason I think my 3 stud ghetto fix will work is because when i was taking off the original fan clutch I noticed 2 of the nuts were completely loose ..they came off using 2 fingers with just a few turns..and I never had issues there that I know of (other than the fan clutch possibly being too old)

nice wheels on close up anyway ..but there's something odd about them. Are they 19s ?

Best I could figure out is that the Shockproof oil is good for worn boxes with synchro issues etc ie. any 10+ year old car. On a new/reconditioned box you would use the normal oil (MT90 or whatever it is)

have you considered draining your gearbox oil and putting in some Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil instead ? So many people swear by it ... as it 'masks' all the existing problems with your gearbox ie. worn syncros. So it feels as new until it completely dies I guess ..which could be in 10 years time, long after you've already sold/crashed/written off the car. I have the same notchy feeling, especially on cold starts ... so I'm gonna try this shockproof oil soon. Don't see the point in reconditioning gearbox as I'm not gonna take my car over 200rwkw anytime soon. For $100 I can get the same feeling as new/recon box

oh and reading this page about "easy outs" doesn't leave me with much confidence in that method http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html Even with the radiator/shroud/fanclutch out, there's very little space to work in and I can't see how anyone would be able to put a correct size ie. really THIN, since the studs are not that massive AND centre it perfectly. I already can see a broken "easy out" wasted time and money and then having to replace water pump. Think the 3 stud ghetto fix will work ..I just can't see how it couldn't work, it doesn't spin that fast and the forces at work aren't that impressive. Hell people make it back home driving a car through corners and shit on a single nut on a single stud ..eg. those secure nuts that you put on wheels...when someone tries to steal their wheels and takes off 4 nuts.. Quick question ... would the stud end thats stuck inside the water pump hub be threaded normally or in reverse?? I'm thinking it might be reverse ...but the bastard wouldn't budge either direction using vise grips.

timing belt was replaced 2 years ago as soon as I got the car ... not sure about water pump because the place that did the work was a bit dodgy as and all i got was "looks like the water pump was changed" which is not a confirmation of any sort. In any case the WP seems ok. We've put the new fan clutch and the 3 studs seem to hold it just fine.. the 4th stud is broken in half so you can't put a nut on it of any kind but atleast the 4th hole is resting on the broken stud even there's no nut over it. Yeah it's a bit dodgy but I just can't see it doing any damage ...the 3 studs should be plenty to hold the fan clutch in place plus its resting on the 4th broken stud. I've put a 40mm radiator in and so now the only way to get the fan clutch in/out is to take out radiator + shroud + fan clutch at the same time as there's not enough space for the fan clutch to come out on its own. So I'm tempted to leave it as is ... guy I spoke to, friend of my dad's who's been a dismantler for 30 years said as long as the remaining 3 studs are there it should be fine. He reckons even 2 opposing studs would hold the fan clutch no probs so the fact there's a 3rd one is more than enough. But yeah ..I WOULD prefer to get it done right ..and if it's only $100 hell why not .. who do I call ?? I'm just worried that taking my fan clutch in/out so many times I might break off another stud with all the tighetning/loosening and then it's time for a new water pump and those oem bitches ain't cheap..

at $1200 + labour ($300-400 for labour?) ...how much is a new gearbox ? never mind ..found an R33 genuine nissan from a popular jdm sho in sydney (ie. exxy shop) for $3200 ..so I'm guessing it should be doable for $2500 or so.

got hitched recently did ya missus?

ECU probably guestimates the values when connection is lost completely .... the reason I think that is because I took a coolant temp sensor and gauge sensor connector off recently and ecu was still reporting same values as when they were connected when it couldn't have possibly known the correct temps anymore.

Yes, I replaced my neo AFM with a pink label R33 one recently just to test to see if there's any difference and it works no probs. I have one for sale if you're interested

yeah a bit of a pain in the ass but if it wasn't well hidden it'd take a pro thief < 1 min to steal both your Xenon headlights and you know how much they cost..

you need to take the front bar off as there is one more bolt under each headlight .. There's a tutorial in the DIY section on how to take the R34 front bar off ..didn't look too hard.

Was replacing my fan clutch today and when putting the new one on, one of the 4 bolts that attach fan clutch to water pump snapped .. I've taken the alternator belt roller thingy off and have tried undoing the snapped bolt from the water pump housing using vise grips so that I can put a new bolt it... but it won't budge.. So my question is, is it safe to run on only 3 of these bolts ??? I don't think this part spins that fast (like the fan clutch itself for example) as its just the water pump .. Has anyone snapped one of these bastards before?? No wasn't using too much force ..I think it was previously damaged when the water pump was changed by a mechanic as one of the bolrs (probably the one that snapped) was really f**ken tight unlike the other 3 when I was taking off the old fan clutch..

I bought a torque wrench just this morning but its too big to fit between the engine and clutch to reach those 4 bolts ...ah well. It instantly became a father's day present and he's happy with it There's no way a torque wrench will fit in there to do these bolts so I'll just have to try and get it as tight as possible without destroying anything .. On an unrelated note ..changing the radiator too and I've noticed 90% of that foam that goes around the fan shroud edges is completely gonesky ...spoke to clark rubber and the bloke said they wouldn't have anything to suit, hmm.. any other places that might have it ?? Oh yeah ..old radiator, geezus ..80-90% of the cooling fins are completely blocked off with dirt, no wonder it couldn't cool for shit.

hey guys I'm just about to head out to my parents place to put a new radiator and a new fan clutch (the davies craig one) in. The fanclutch installation sheet has provided torque settings for the 4 bolts that bolt the clutch on to the water pump/engine/whatever. But I have no torque wrench ... would it be safe to simply tighten them pretty tight without any accurate torque measurements?? Or should I pay $100+ for a torque wrench which I might never need again ..?

was it alarmed/immobilized at all ??