Wacky Dee

reviving an old thread I know .. Just wanted to know if anyone else had fitted these and whether they're slippery when wet ? (more than the standard rubber ones) Kudos MS sells them for < $240 in case anyone else is interested.. I know this is mostly rice but they'd suit my car (creme seats, jet black carpets and mats) as they'd break up the black monotony in my footwell

yeah I posted pics on SAU a few weeks ago .. very hard to capture the way they look IRL due to the reflectors inside..but they do look good.

I have the same issue with my R34 ... I thought someone might have caught the mirror walking/driving past and broke the internals ..its loose and nothing stopping it coming in all the way so it gets annoying. I might try some ghetto fix with glue/tape as it sounds like too much of a hassle to fix properly

I got this part # from nissan over the phone .. 22630-44b20 Googling for it, it does look like the right part. The nissan guy I spoke did mention there's another 'sender' unit for the actual dashcluster gauge, does anyone know where this one is located? I changed my thermostat the other day and didn't notice it there anywhere

hey guys I'd like to replace my factory water temperature probe/sensor ..the one that sits near the coolant bleed screw at the front of the engine. The reason for this it's reporting temps to the ecu (confirmed via consult) higher than my aftermarket gauge which has a temp sensor measuring temps on the same radiator hose only about 20cm distance from the factory one... It's for an R34 GTT (rb25det NEO) .. if anyone knows the nissan part # and approx. cost please do tell Cheers

I have the eastbear copies with the blinkers painted amber ..looks good too and it was < $400

lol was thinking of injectors oh well ..you got the answer anyway

dont think so ..R34 are top feed, I'm pretty sure R32 are side feed (atleast the 33's are)

I think the auto one has an extra nipple on the bottom for a hose that cools the auto tranny.. Ps. how do you know that your radiator is blocked ? I'm just curious as I was considering the same new radiator.

yeah you're looking at another $1k or so for the GTR wing from japanese auctions ..not cheap but certainly nice. But still one those things I'd put on my 'last to do' list.. I'd rather refurbish my brake calipers and master cylinder than blow $1k on a wing

thanks guys but I've already change the thermostat / coolant the other day ...car seems fine As for question above ..my understanding is water cools better so if you put pure coolant your temps might get a big higher than usual. Coolant is there to just inhibit corrosion, lower the freezing point of water and increase the boiling point.

I wouldn't take the car to CRD to get something like a boost controller installed ... because it will take 2-3 hours at $120 hour. Same thing can be done by a less known mechanic/sparky at $50-60ph. In having said that, if it's a complex problem relating to GTRs specifically, CRD are the most likely to be able to find the fault and fix it. Other less experienced mechanics might take a lot longer or not be able to find the fault at all. In any case, Yavuz at Unigroup is just as good as CRD imo and I believe they charge $70ph and you won't find anyone who's had a bad experience with Unigroup. They fix and tune everything from GTRs to space shuttles pretty much..

I've used hi-tec (local aussie brand) and now Motul 300V in my R34 ... can't tell a difference. Just get the right viscosity oil and change is regularly. Oils are oils imho.. the rest is just marketing.

oh I forgot one ..don't buy an NA unless you're on your Ps

just a couple of tips ... buy your bodykit FIRST if you're going to get one anyway. That way you know how much you can lower the car without scraping etc. Also secondly, if you're changing suspension do it right and get ALL the crap at the same time ie. springs AND shocks. Labour is expensive so you want to do springs and shocks at the same time eg. bilstein shocks + whiteline springs or just get a coilover kit (shocks come with springs attached to them). Don't forget the camber kits - whiteline sell these too. Camber kits are necessary or once you lower the car you will be chewing through your tyres real quick. Good wheel alignment and camber/castor/toe adjustment after installing new new suspension and lowering the car is a MUST.

1) it's not legal as its fibreglass 2) the link you posted is for the brackets that hold the wing up not the wing itself 3) Avoid carmate if you can ..I got my body kit there and got screwed bigtime, bad workmanship and paint was a joke and had to be resprayed at my cost

sata mate ..its on ebay now

I saw a white GTR with the nismo leds today ..looked awesome but I could never justify paying $1k more than the eastbear copie, atleast not for a GTT.

yeah and those that take it out and ruin that factory seal like I did ..grab a small tube of Bostik (the black one) from bunnings. It's black silicone and costs $4 .. real easy to apply around the edge from the outside, then wipe all excess off and let it dry. Perfecto

from what you described it sounds like dodgy alternator .. but you had that serviced so hmm. Did they test it after service to make sure alternator is charging correctly ? Something's obviously discharging your battery quicker than the alternator can recharge it (assuming alternator is 100% working) Take it to an auto mechanic and check your electrical system would be my next move..

thing is with the thermostat wide open my ecu still thinks I'm reaching temps of 95 degrees or so and that's just around town driving.. I get that from the consult (never noticed the dash needle going above just under half or any overheating issues really) Also my aftermarket gauge that has a sensor in the top raidator hose reads about 10 degrees LOWER than what ecu is telling me via CONSULT cable.. I think the real temp is somewhere in between. That's why I thought it can't be anything other than a blocked radiator or dodgy fan clutch ....it's not the thermostat because I've replaced it. So it's hard to tell if it's A) just a dodgy ecu temp sensor reporting incorrectly to the ecu B) dodgy/sticking fan clutch not opening fully when it should C) blocked radiator not cooling the water quickly enough I've ruled out thermostat and air in the cooling system .. so it can only be A, B or C .... OR D (something I didn't think of yet)

I've replaced mine the other day with the one from opening post from Japan ..looks awesome. Only issue is when removing the housing some of the old seal cracked away as it was all hard and shit .. It's actually not seal it's some sort of black gunk, like playdough/bluetack. So I need to buy some more of this shit to fill all the gaps nicely so as not to allow water to come in from the outside and give me that dreaded "rust around bootlid tail light on R34" look.. Any ideas what this black gunk is called? It's soft and sticky and black ..like playdough but stickier..

yeah I know about that bolt on the right hand side but from all my research most people were saying to leave it alone because 1) it's extremely hard to reach 2) a total PITA to remove as its probably become a part of the block so to speak.. So no I didn't drain from that one, just from radiator drain and from the thermostat side. So question is, could there have been 4 LITRES of old coolant/water still in the right hand side of the block and heater pipes??

mmm chicken feet .. can I get some beaks too? Don't think my radiator is blocked ... just my ECU for some f**ked up reason is reporting 7-8 degrees MORE for water temperature (via Consult) then it really is.

thank you thank you I try my best to amuse everyone I'm not ashamed to admit I know next to sweet f'all when it comes to cars and a month ago I didn't even what a thermostat did exactly, today I replaced mine Speaking of which .. I flushed the cooling system with some Nulon product (had to leave the thermostat out for this to save myself time when rinsing the shit out..) and refiilled it with the green Nulon premix (33% coolant 66 distilled water) Anyway, question is, aren't 34's supposed to take in 9 litres of coolant ? I could barely fit in 5.5 litres and that's with the overflow bottle included .. yes I've bled the cooling system via those 2 screws on each side of the plenum (yes 34s do have 2 of those..) and radiator cap. I've also drained the radiator and block (from the thermo side). Is it possible there was still 3.5 - 4 litres of OLD COOLANT left in the block on the right hand side and in the heater pipes? Seems kinda ALOT to be sitting inside half the block and heater pipes.. Oh yeah I did have the heater on full when flushing/rinsing the cooling system.. How much coolant were you guys able to poor in there last time you flushed old coolant ??