Wacky Dee

oh I see ... in that case my fan clutch may be sticking or something because I had the consult plugged in as I was driving and noticed it coming on very rarely even when the temps rose to 96c in traffic

when is the fan on top of the air condenser supposed to kick in ..when you switch the aircon on or is it supposed to be running all the time? I don't think I've ever seen it on

kudos motorsports has the genuine nissan thermostats on their web site for < $50 ..in fact I'm waiting on the delivery on mine (friggin auspost, was supposed to be here this morning) so I don't see much point in getting an 'aftermarket' one. Did you use the gasket maker goo when you replaced the thermostat too? Kudos has that crap as well ..only $10

I'll just have to stop by a car yard and look at another skyline I guess ..I'm sure it's normal (the condenser, not me)

hm yeah .. if it only started happening after you installed the immobiliser, I'd say it's the wiring of the immobiliser..so take it back to whoever installed it for you. you know some alarms/immobiliser systems come with built in turbo timers .. maybe yours did to and now you've got 2 ??

yeah ok I thought it would be something like that but why on earth would they put it right infront of the radiator core so that no air can get to the radiator ??

do you know what a turbo timer is/does ? The TT keeps your car running for a few (preset or user-defined) number of seconds AFTER you switch it off. So the car shutting down after you lock is just the TT turning it off, ie. it's doing its job. Thank god I'm not the biggest nub around here anymore

Ok I was just mucking around the front bar looking at the fan, hoses etc when I noticed i have TWO heater cores .. each is about 2cm thick and the one at the front was completely COLD (after a long drive) and the one behind it was HOT AS. Is this the stock system set up? The core at the front doesnt appear to be connected to the one behind it (the HOT one)..there's about 5cm of space between them so um WTF ? I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that stock radiator is only about a 2cm thick core so I think I have 2 cores on my front reo bar ..one of them apparently doing nothing and no its not a FMIC, I only have SMIC with the stock piping going to turbo.. !?!?

sorry, another nub question I know but believe me I've search for over an hour and even googled it and also looked through the r34 workshop manual (can never seem to find a thing in this thing) and nada.. I looked at the 2 hoses on the driver side today connecting from radiator to the block and couldn't spot the thermo on either one .. or is stuck on the block down below where the bottom hose connects ?? Another question ..I got that Nulon premix coolant which is 33% coolant and 66% distilled water ... said on the thing to check with car manufacturer what the correct ratio of coolant/water is for my car. Um what ?!? Anyway plenty of people seem to be using this coolant so I suppose it's fine but I just wanted to check one last time before I flush and replace the coolant if indeed it can be 1 : 2 ratio or it if had to be 1:1 (coolant:water)

the thing is, these yum cha rads are all pretty much the same ..FLYN, ISC, JustJap etc .. they all more than likely come off the same production lines in China. So is there nothing in between these cheapies and the good stuff (like KoyoRad) ? I don't think I could justify paying $700 for a friggin radiator, ever.

yeah could be just the stock sender ... but who knows, it could be a sign of more serious trouble coming my way. I just recently installed new gauges replacing the stockies but didn't get an oul pressure one as it seemed like too much of a hassle at the time. So yeah, I've got nowhere to put an aftermarket one now unless I get one of those A pillar holders ..but those things are massive cop bait so yeah, not sure what to do And for all the whingers above I DID search and read for an hour or 2 .. it's usually always the same rah-rah-rah "your factory sendor is probably broken" rah rah rah (see above ;D ) I don't know, it could be ..but I don't like leaving things to chance... but I suppose there's not much else I can do. Besides it's now back to normal (sits at 2 when warmed up and idle) so not to sure what to make of that drop today ..

I was driving around today (in traffic) for about an hour ..went to the shops to buy some new coolant and got on my way ..then I noticed my factory oil pressure gauge (inside the dash cluster under the speedo) dropped to 1.4 or so .. and as I was watching it the needle kept dropping even further and settled at 1. The engine at this point was fully warmed up and IDLE. I was worried about what's happening so took it easy and didn't go over 3000 rpm (at which point the oil pressure needle was sitting at 2) For the next 10 minutes or so whenever I had to stop due to traffic as soon as the car was idle, the pressure would drop down to 1. So I pulled over and opened the bonnet .. check the oil level and it seemed fine. Check to see if I'm leaking oil and nope ..nothing under the car. I did notice the oil on the dip stick looked light brown, I'm not sure if that's normal for this oild (Chrono 300V) So I let it sit for 10 mins or so and got in the car again and drove off. At first the pressure now was around 1.2-1.4 (at idle) and few minutes later I look down again and now it's sitting at the usual 2 on idle. What could this be a sign of ?? I've never seen the oil pressure drop below 2 in the 2 years that I've owned it. It's only a daily so only mild mods etc. Last oil change was about 2 months ago and Motul Chrono 300V was put it. Now I'm worried about driving it hard (ie. above 3000 rpm) or listening to the radio for fear of missing some engine noise that could be a precussor to a bigger bang.. and I'm constantly staring at the bloody oil pressure needle like a hawk which is not the safest thing to be doing either. Any ideas?

thanks guys all that info will come in handy tommorow when I flush the system and put the new thermostat on

are you meant to add coolant/distilled water to the overflow bottle (up to the "max" line about half way accross the bottle) when the engine is completely cold or hot ? My understanding is, when the engine is hot it will blow coolant out INTO the overflow bottle ... and adding cold/room temperature coolant to the overflow bottle while engine is hot does not seem like the brightest idea (ie. adding cold water to an already hot engine block). And when the engine is cold, it will suck all the coolant from the overflow into the radiator... So I am assuming if I open the overflow cap to fill it up whilst engine is cold, the radiator might suck in air together with the new water (unless the radiator is full). So in short, when the f#@&* am I supposed to add coolant to the overflow bottle ? Hot or cold ? Before or after topping up radiator ? Oh and if anyone knows where the coolant bleed valves are an a R34 GTT please do tell I couldn't find it on the plenum (does the NEO rocker cover have to come off to see it??) Also, how the hell do you bleed the coolant that's stuck inside the engine ?? Radiator drain drains the coolant from the radiator ..but how do you drain the coolant from the engine AND the heater pipes ? I used to think replacing coolant was a simple task ...ugh

Car's been runnign a little hotter than it should lately so I've been thinking of getting my factory radiator reconditioned .. when I worked out how much that would cost it turns out a new ebay radiator from FLYN costs only $199 brand new and it's 40mm and dual core has anyone used one of these FLYN $199 ebay radiators? Seems very tempting but I don't want something that's gonna start leaking when I least expect it or when I'm not paying attention and overheat/blow my engine.. The radiators I'm referring to are here http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLYN-RADIATOR-FOR-R...alenotsupported

instead of mucking around with the puny factory radiator that may be clogged and need recon I was thinking of getting something aftermarket when i spotted this for only $199 has anyone used these FLYN 40mm dual core radiators ? Are they any good? I really don't wanna put some yumcha item that's gonna work like shit and overheat my engine http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLYN-RADIATOR-FOR-R...alenotsupported

the aftermarket gauge sensor is in the top left radiator hose ..about 20cm from the factory sensor Thanks for the tip re cap .. I'm not gonna change the cap unless I can source a new oem one cheaply.

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I guess its just as likely or more likely that I have crap clogging my 10 year old factory radiator/hoses or perhaps even the thermostat sticking a bit... whats the most likely? Where to start? Hate spending time and money and getting 0 results (like a $200 genuine o2 sensor that brough 0% fuel economy improvements)

could someone find part# for R34 GTT (ER34) ..namely the nissan water temperature sensor that sits under the rocker cover just up on the left from the radiator (near the top left hose)

yeah i guess I better start there .. Does anyone have any idea how much the standard water temp sensor for an R34 GTT costs ..from Nissan ?

what's the normal water temp for an rb25det/neo with all thermos and radiator working properly ? I just recently hooked up a new water temp gauge (aftermarket) to my radiator hose (grounded and insulated) and it shows temps never higher than 86 degrees or so. BUT the ecu (using consult) shows up to 96 degrees. An auto sparky I spoke to said to me he's seen a problem like this once (not on a skyline) and it turned out to be an ECU problem ..the battery inside the ecu was dead and reason why it was showing wrong voltages for the factory water temp sensor. Once he changed the battery inside the ecu, that fixed it. Any ideas if Skyline ecu's have batteries inside of them ?

You mean if the noise goes away when you press the clutch pedal IN, right ?? Because that's when mine goes away..With clutch released and in neutral is when it IS making noise.

pretty common issue ..I have this noise on my R34 also and researched it before. it's harmless but annoying..(thrust bearing) Humbla, how much did you pay for the 2 bearings and labour to replace both? Cheers

it's bogan central that's why .. cops are too. Also due to the high number of idiots in the far west in general, I'd say that's why they're more heavy handed...as they probably deal with speeding dickheads everyday.