Wacky Dee

I've just checked the logs and at hot idle at around 750-800 rpm, the AAC is at 32% solidly the whole time and ign timing at 5* by the way this is a rb25det NEO6 (GTT) ..don't know if that makes any difference

was just googling around for a nissan oem thermostat ...most places sell the 76.5degrees one for "ALL RB ENGINES" ... well, that doesn't appear to be right. According to kudos motorsport web site, the NEO engine (R34 GTT and others) uses a different thermo, that opens at 82degrees..what the fark. NEO engines like more heat ?! edit: and looking at the R34 service manual ..it does also state thermostat opening at 82 degrees (fully open at 95) as opposed to 76.5 in all the other skylines.

so how'd you go and how was the snow, yo ? (Mad rhymes there...) I just plugged in a consult cable today and noticed my ECU saying water temp rose to 96 degrees at some point and that's in today's freezing weather in Syd... so I'm curious if/which of the above helped you out. I'm gonna start with thermostat/new coolant as that's the cheapest thing to do. Did you get your radiator 'reverse flushed' etc ?

the gauge sensor sits in the top left radiator hose ..about 20cm from the radiator no idea when the termostat was changed last if ever ...is the nismo thermo worth the extra dough? ($112 delivered from japan) vs $40-50 for the Nissan one? The nismo one apparently opens up 15 degrees sooner at 62celsius vs 76 on the Nissan. my ecu temp is way too high ..worried it might be the ecu temp sensor that's farked so new themorstat wouldn't do jack shit I think. There's no way in hell the water temps should have gone to 96degrees celsius in today's assfreezing weather after only a 10 min run on the motorway.. By the way I don't have a FMIC so the radiator isn't sucking in hot air..

I've had an autogauge electrical gauge installed for water temp for a few weeks now and the temps have never gone above 80 degrees celsius on it. The needle never goes above middle point on the factory cluster gauge either... However I just plugged in a consult USB cable with nissan datascan today and according to ECU the water temp rose up to 96 degrees today with the weather freezing outside. That was only after a short run on the motorway too ..nothing too crazy (up to 110kmh in 3rd once and thats it) ..as soon as I slowed down the water temp started rising according to ECU and went up to 96.. After a short while driving around it dropped down to 91 .. To me this sounds waaaaay too high esp due to temps outside, the fact its a < 200rwkw skyline and that I wasn't racing it. Plenty of water/coolant in the radiator. What is the most likely cause ? ECU water temp sensor faulty ?? I just can't imagine how the autogauge gauge/sensor could be off by 10-15 degrees...AND the dash cluster needle being stuck also. Or could it be my radiator maybe clogged or something ?? I know it's not leaking but that's about it..

if its a modified engine could be anything .. maybe an aftermarket fuel pump?From what I've read they can be very noisy and I imagine it'd sound something like that. I'm sure someone else will be able to tell you something more useful

ok just heard back from Toshi who said its feedback and normal for the ecu to display 5 degrees in neutral on idle ..apparently if I were to jack up the car and put it in first instead it would show 15 (or 17 in my case) So all good ..case closed

ps you can fit those gauges inside the pod ..like the factory ones, just use a heap of bluetack to hold them in place ..looks much better than when theyre sitting outside like that.

$75 for cable from ecutalk and $55 or so for datascan from plmsdevelopment..

nah I had Yavuz double check it with his (good) timing gun when i went in for service (shortly after the remap a year ago) and he confirmed its 17 degrees at the CAS .. btw, no one's ever tuned this car other than Toshi with the remap (timing/AFRs) and the timing belt was done by the dealer (who outsourced it to god knows who but this was close to 2 years ago) Anyway, is it possible for the CAS to read 17 degrees and the ECU to think 5 degrees at idle ? And what effect would that have on my power/fuel consumption?

ok if timing is set to 17 deg at the cam (or is it CAS? I suck at these things..) for idle/base ..how can it be 5 deg inside the cpu? Something screwed up surely? Maybe this is the reason i can't get better than 17l/100kms economy (and not the lead foot ;D )

hahah yeah I am sorry .. yeah i watched the vid, interesting it must be cause its a streaming vid (cant dl it directly) that's causing the fuss on this comp..

yeah worth it I reckon .. Anyway, I've just googled and it looks like timing IS supposed to be 15 degrees at (warmed up) idle but mine is 5. WTF. Double WTF comes from the fact that about a year ago when I had my ecu remapped by Toshi, he noticed the same thing and he said the car shouldnt even be running at such low ign timing .. I suspected the guys that changed my timing belt screwed it up. Anyway, Toshi reset it to 15 (but due to a dodgy timing light it was actually set to 17 degreees instead as we later found out) ..and now the double WTF, a year later ..I connect consult and my ecu says timing at idle is 5 instead of 15 degrees. Any ideas anyone?

Just boght a consult usb cable and nissan datascan software to see for myself how all the sensors are responding ... one thing that I noticed after the car properly warmed up is that at idle (rpm 750 or so) the ign timing sits at '5' solidly.. I thought this is supposed to be 15, or am I thinking of something else?

hahaha call me paranoid but I still find this whole thread strange and sus .. the video link gives me a prompt and trying to right click the file and download isnt allowed, some sort of scripting used to give a fake error..Dodg-eeeee.

how do you get in base idle mode, disc the TPS or somefin ?

dunno why but alarm bells are reinging due to this whole post/link ..even tho it looks like a video link

if anyone can hook me up with the latest nissan datascan software please PM me getting my consult cable today..

What he said ... JAX charged me something ridiculously low like $20 for balancing all 4 wheels and about $50-60 to sort out the toe/camber settings. Do that and you should be fine.

just get the toe adjusted properly ..shouldn't be more than $50-60 and if it's still pulling to one side it could be a seized up caliper piston ..but it's probably just the toe

speaking of consult ..anyone know any nice programs to use ? I'm getting my consult cable today ..can't wait to see all the sensor data and crap Speaking of which, is there perhaps a summary of correct sensor voltages anywhere ?? eg. I wanna make sure my AFM, knock sensor etc are operating normally

he (and Toshi in Sydney) remap R33's and 34s ... bit different to Nistune. I believe Nistune is more adjustable ..works with bigger injectors etc where as "remap" is only AFRs and ingition timing adjustments..

don't need xray eyes for that ..just vivid imagination and min. 2 hours of porn per day...not speaking from experience or anything like that

hey if anyone in syd wants to trade a blitz nur spec R for a HKS silent hipower let me know ..I could use a change (the HKS costs $200 more at JJ btw!) ...cat-back only

just watched that vid ...jesus ..if it wasn't for that girl's quick reaction time in avoiding a head-on collision, you'd both probably be DEAD .. the last video angle shows it all. Why would you want to go any faster ? You seem very young, take it easy and try and perfect your driving skill before you become a quadraplegic or kill someone else.. edit: actually on 2nd viewing ..looks like she had no chance to react as you lost control behind and clipped her rear .. lucky she was faster than you