Wacky Dee

I just couldnt justify screwing around with all the hoses (4 of them on the GTT) as they seemed very hard to get off after seeing how clean the inside was ..literally brand new or atleast looked that way. is your a GTT or v35? my AFM wiring harness seems solid .. no loose wires. I'm gonna get a nissan consult cable (ecutalk.com) and check all the sensors using consult programs to make sure AFM voltage is ok etc. RPM sits at 850-900 on idle ..no hunting, but when clutching in at lights, moving steering wheel when stationary it does hunt a bit (3-5 seconds)

65000 or thereabouts .. you don't get it, there is NO dirt in there. The pain of ripping those 4 hoses out to 'clean' something that is practically new inside is not worth it. The brass looks like brass and is shiny. The walls are still alloi colour and shiny/brand new (much cleaner and shinier than on the outside). No carbon deposits what-so-ever.

and for anyone in sydney, I asked Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering (Girraween/Western Syd) and they do heaps of Nistune tuning..

if I were in GC I'd let you use my passenger one but alas I'm nowhere near ..

ok this is weird ... I thought I'd take my AAC valve housing off and clean it with carby cleaner as per that tutorial in the DIY section ... once I unbolted the AAC housing one thing became quite clear right away, no need to clean it as it looks BRAND NEW inside .. I mean all the walls are shiny even the spring. No trace of carbon buildup or any dirt. How's this even possible on a 10 year old car ??

might be easier to find seat(s) for sale than just the factory rail ... I think someone sold both front and rear R34 seats just recently for like $200 all up

Ok this may sounds strange ..but I decided to give this DIY a go myself on a 1998 R34 GT-T with about 65k on the odo as I have some slight idle hunting issues when clutching in at the lights etc So I removed the 4 bolts (slightly different to R33) and loosened the hoses a bit ..but the hoses were really stuck on and so I though I'd just take a look inside the AAC housing to check its condition before I remove all the hoses etc and whaddya know ... THE INSIDE LOOKS BRAND NEW. I am serious, there's not a TRACE of carbon buildup. All the walls look new and shiny and even the spring is shiny and looks brand new. No trace of dirt/carbon buildup ANYWHERE whatsoever. Hm, what gives? Has anyone else cleaned the AAC valve/housing on their R34 GTT and found the same ?

3cm would do I reckon How much height does a helmet add approx ?

when were those photos taken? that doesn't look like the one i went to at all .. this was at fox studios right ??

dont think I saw any of those on there ..I think we came on the final day, 2-3 hours before close so maybe they all already packed up and left The 32s and 33s aren't for me ..but I would have spotted Bakes' 34 so he must have left already ..ORRRR maybe i got lost and didn't see all of the cars SAU shown and shine should be heaps better anyway I reckon, no stupid fees and more relaxed

if anyone atleast has the precise measurements with hole diameters etc to suit an R34 with factory piping (no FMIC) I'd appreciate it ..

I've seen one of them on an R34 with the factory snorkel feeding straight into the pod enclosure ..just can't find the thread in question now. But I think it was custom made anyway.. Why not cut a hole in your box and feed it the factory snorkel or do you have a fmic and piping in the way now ??

if anyone's used an injector cleaning service in sydney please let me know who/where and how much you paid approx. I need someone who can take the injectors out of the engine so preferrably someone who knows RB25s and won't take 4 hours to just remove them .. Then I need them cleaned/flowtested and chucked back in Cheers

considering swapping to an apexi pod but not unless I can sort out some sort of enclosure. I've found enclosures for sale but they are just simple boxes and have no CAI provisions I've seen posts here of pod enclosures that make use of the stock snorkel for cold air intake .. does anyone sell such an item for an R34 GTT ? I need something that will fit with stock IC piping as I don't have a fmic and make use of the stock snorkel not gonna bother trying to manufacture one myself because it'd take me ages unless someone has the right measurements etc already.

don't have a high idle issue really ..sits steady at 850rpm once warmed up, just bugging me do I have to disconnect the TPS while the engine is running BEFORE messing with the idle screw ? I just read somewhere last night that unless you disc the TPS the ecu will adjust to keep idle steady even if you're messing with the idle screw without disconnecting TPS

the apexi filter ..is that just a replacement filter or whole kit? I need the whole kit to suit R34 GT-T with stock intercooler piping and stock AFM..

was just wondering what could explain how undoing the idle adjust screw on the AAC valve can have no effect whatsoever on the idle RPMs.. ? With the screw in completely or out completely it still idles the same. Tuner first thought it was a leak and presssured the engine with a smoke machine but nothing came out so he concluded no leaks and we kinda left it at that. Any ideas? I'm gonna try cleaning the AAC valve soonishly as per that DIY article so I thought I better ask about this in case I might screw up something along the way. Could my AAC valve gasket be leaking air in? Would that show up when pressured with a smoke machine ?

wowzers am I the only one who can do it in under 7s ? oh wait ...you guys aren't talking about 0-100kmh..bummer

went with a mate last year for the 1st and last time .. sersiouly there wasn't a single car there to admire. Yeh I missed the dyno shootout but other than that ..most the cars there were fugly ricers with real bad paintjobs. There wasn't a single car where I went zOmG I want something like that...

have the HKS Silent Hi-Power and JJR dump on my GTT. Love it. You won't get a deep burble around town like it's a rexxy but it's also almost legal and not over the top at all (rated at 92dB) as for power ... it all depends really, i'd say 10-20rwkw extra with no other mods as it flows much better than the stock system

hehehe who DOESN'T I'd seriously trade in an organ for that GTR ... But yeh..for $10-15k you could make a GTT look very close to that (custom, NOT the overpriced eastbear crap)..but seriously why bother? You can get a R34 GTR for less than $50k ..a real one, not an imposter

except for the fact the front and rear guards are still GTT ones ... I'm not sure when was the last time you saw a 34 GTR in real life, but it's the guards that make them stand out the most, not just the bodykit. Why spend $10k to try and make it look like a GTR? I'd rather spend $3k or so on a full genuine IMPUL kit and $7k on some nice power upgrades, say a hiflow setup at around 270rwkw with all supporting mods is more than doable with $7k.

yo any chance you can still post a few photos plz?

i wasn't referring to paint cracking with such offsets/sizes ..like you said a simple guard roll would do, if that. With 18x8.5+35 and 18x9.5+35 you don't even need to roll the guard most likely. But with the OPs sizes/offsets he'll need to flare not just roll the guards ...extensive flare too ..which will cause the paint to crack. anyone been to oran park today? I thought there was gonna be some nice pro comp ..but it was just newbs

it was on ebay just the other day some guy in the UK was selling them... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R34-...%3A1%7C294%3A50