Wacky Dee

sorry can't recommend anyone ... I've had some strut tower rust taken out by a mob in seven hills but they did such a bang up job I need to go back in less than a year as it appears worse now. I've also got a lot of surface rust on the floor pan (from below the car/outside) and intend to get an airblast thingo attach it to my dad's compressor and sand blast the crap out of it, then fishoil the whole underside (literally drench it in fishoil). If anyone can chime in with a really good rust repairer that'd be great .. I've already gotten 2nd hand strut towers so that mine can get repaired but don't trust the mob who did the original job, one bit.....

there you go, learn something new everyday. Thanks for the concicse and easy to understand explanation. Now I hope you're right so I don't have to un-remember this

You're probably right but I thought shoving more air into your engine without tuning the ecu would leave it not knowing what to do with the extra air and provide leaner mixtures as a result.

here's more food for thought: WTF? I don't get what you're saying or inferring and I don't think anyone else does either. Or did you just want to post your VL times?

Nistune is now the preferred ecu by many of the popular import tuners .. it's hardly a waste of money. I'm not sure where you get that it doesn't have "full tunability" And of course you should dyno it after messing around with boost unless you don't mind your engine pinging it's head off. As I said, get the mixtures and timing fixed up - no point in doing up the boost as that will only introduce pinging and the longer you run it like that the more damage you do to the engine.

To answer the original question from a relative noob's POV ... (and reiterate what many others have already said) - it's because newbies don't know about response, torque and how that all figures in to the equation. For example when I first got my skyline I had Toshi tune it on the road as well .. but I too was going for as much peak power although on a slightly less aggressive tune (11.5:1 AFRs) and more boost. If/when I get the car retuned, I'll probably get an exhaust cam gear, a Nistune and take it to Unigroup to retune on the dyno just for streetability and response. The "195rwkw" I got now means jack shit because I've never taken the car to the race track and the one time I hit 6500+ RPM on the street, I lost my licence for 6 months. So yeah next tune, I'll be using the existing dyno sheets from previous tune as a reference but aim for more torque and power in the low-mid range, disregarding peak power completely. So if I end up with 170rwkw "peak power" but manage to shift the torque/power curve down say 1000 RPM I'll be happy as a pig in mud

factory ecu will have pretty rich mixtures though so you really need to get the AFRs and timing fixed up as well, not just boost. Nistune is a cheap ecu addon ($400 or so from memory) - that and a half decent dyno tune with 10PSI on the turbo and you should be sweet

I would but don't have a timing gun So if I drive over to the mechanic and get it reset to 17 I'll have to wait a couple of hours for the engine to cool down completely as the noise is only audible when the engine is cold. Either way I'm happy as just to have the noise gone and car not sounding like a shitbox everytime I start it cold. I can live with less power as I'm driving it like a granny now anyway being on 1 demerit and all hehe.

piston slap on a 12yo R34 with 195rwkw and 80,000 Kms? This thing came looking like new when I bought it 2 years ago ...no mods, no ratthles, nothing, factory smell. And I baby it and haven't tracked it once. Isn't piston slap something you'd get from a severely trashed engine ?? None of the people that saw the car in person and hear the noise mentioned pistol slap and they work on skylines and other performance cars on a daily basis. And is reducing timing from 17 deg to 15 really that massive ?

I have the Nissan Consult cable ... bring it over to me if you want and I'll plug it in and the computer tells ya what the error code (if any) is. I'm in Five Dock. Send me a PM if you want to come over. Also I'd change the oild to something a bit thicker .. 10W40 Royal Purple seems to be a good range (I run 15W40 RP but it has to be ordered from Melb where as 10W40 is off the shelf). Another thing .. only use BP Ultimate, don't fill up at random servos or 95ron.

Now that I think of it ... Yavuz did reset my CAS timing back to 15 after the initial start (still with the rattle and at 17deg). Car was tuned by Toshi a while ago and due to a dodgy timing light it was tuned while at 17deg CAS timing. This is why the mechanic also set it back to 17 now after the service. That's when it was still making the noise. So hmm .. it seems that resetting it to the factory 15 deg CAS timing must be the reason it stopped ?? That's the only thing that makes sense ...

any more pics of the sunline kit and is that modified factory lenses or aftermarket complete ? Also .. what's that rear bar? Luv it looks like a GTR ztune rear bar or possibly Impul - hard to tell from the angle. Is that a GTR wing ? I'm kinda liking the Nissan badge removed too ... hm something to do when I'm bored I guess (was it hard to remove it ?)

anoddodywotty?

it was doing it on cold starts for the first 2-3 minutes .. then it would progressively become unnoticable once warmed up. It's been like that for 18 months. Yeah I've no idea why it was still doing it after everything was put on ...but since the morning after, have had atleast 5-6 cold starts and it's completely gone. And it's exactly the same type of noise as in those youtube vids and both those guys also had it go away after timing belt/waterpump/bearings were changed.

MUDDA FARKA IS GONESKY!!!! Had the timing belt/pump and bearings replaced on friday ... once it was all put back together and started, the car was making the same frigging rattle and I was like CUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUNTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT but oh well. Then next morning GONE!@!!!!! I've had a few cold starts now and its totally gone. My so called "sticky lifter" is 100% gone wooooooooooooooT. So anyone whose car sounds like this or this get ya bearings and timing belt changed! I used genuine Nissan parts only (not sure if it matters)

thanks man, don't need it anymore. My problem has been resolved! WOOT!

anyone in syd willing to let me try their CAS on my R34? Just trying to eleminate my CAS as the source of the most annoying god damn rattling noise It's an R34 GTT but I'm pretty sure R33 CAS is the same (internally anyway) but if anyone can confirm that'd be great

you can do it yourself ... just take your tme and it'll look fine, especially matt black is easy as

Mmm gold. So shiny.

Have the Nismo rear bar and impul side skirts - looking for Nissan Altia (some ppl refer to it as NISMO too) rear bar and skirts. See here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sy...-S-t341276.html

nice car mate .. just a tip (and you obviously might disagree) - paint the wheels black. Black wheels on a stock white R34 looks insanely good. I saw one done with a spray can on stock R34 wheels (white 34) and it's just OHMAHGAWD. It transforms the car. White wheels on white car just don't work IMO. So yeah, this is like a $100 mod you could do and I'm sure it would give it a far wider appeal and get more people interested when they see photos.

I'll take one too

Am getting a little bored with current looks so instead of spending tons of cash thought I'd check to see if anyone else is in a similar mood and maybe we can do swapsies? I have the Nismo rear bar (fibreglass) - very good quality and perfect fit and paint. Impul side skirts - good fit with a couple of little chips on corner from when they were installed and gutter scratches on underside, pretty crap paint but unless you look closely you can't really tell. The side skirts are a good candidate for fibreglass repair and respray but can be used as-is if you're not fussy. I'm after the Nissan Altia (also referred to as "Nismo") rear bar and side skirts. In other words... This is WHAT I HAVE: This is WHAT I WANT: I'm in Sydney no 'shipping' only interested in NSW trades and only in factory R34 BLACK color.

Speaking of teachers and principles ... I actually can relate to that, except for the fact that due to my parents intervention both the deputy principal lost her job and principal was put on notice and none of the fascist crap continued in the future. Oh and 2m x 1m windowless "timeout room" was closed down. I suppose there's a chance they might get pissed off, but you can either be a pushover your whole life or do something about it.

If you're getting constantly pulled over, hassled see this: http://www.ag.gov.au/foi