Wacky Dee

Sorry don't mean to rain on anyone's parade but that's not an accurate measurement unless you're certain your fuel guage is SPOT ON but seeing as how it's an R33 I highly doubt it. My R34's fuel guage shows up to 180Kms for the top half of tank and then only about 120 for the bottom half (bottom 2 notches) ie. it's not balanced correctly and doesn't actually mean jack shit. Best way to measure it as the bowser.. ie. 1) fill up until full 2) reset odo to 0 3) drive until empty or however long you want 4) refill and note down how many litres you refilled 5) look at odo .. divide that number by 100 and then divide number of litres you refilled by that result of division above and you get l/100kms

350Kms out of a tank (assuming by "tank" you mean 50l) is about 14l/100Kms which is not too shabby .. I'd be happy with that. I barely get 300Kms out of 50l and that's with a band new genuine o2 sensor, afm and remapped ecu that runs a lot leaner than stock.. I do no highway driving though (well maybe 5-10% every other week) as it's all mostly around town.

yeah the Nismo ones are the ultimate sex0r but when they cost more than a nice 270kw turbo + dump pipe you have to wonder if they're really THAT GOOD... no way. Edit: yeah seen that animation before that's why I wanna get em hehe I reckon on a white or even red r34 they looks pretty good even with the clear indicators .. not so sure about a black one though

yeah that 34 has a Cwest kit I think ... I love the "S' on my bonnet Chrome badge on black bonnet FTW!

I'm pretty sure some guy called Lewis from Xclusive Colours gets a lot of mention in the NSW section ...Under no circumstance take it to Carmate, their paint/fitting service is what bodykit nightmares are made of.

hm I see what you mean ... Oh well, if they won't come out I might just find someone who can tint the clear section (indicators) to amber like the stockies .. the red part of the EB lenses doesn't look too shiity at all, just the clear indicators are yuck.. Any ideas about which batch your ones with the wiring problem were? I'd like to avoid getting same batch if possible hehe

the panel beater I took it to looked at the towers and top plate and he reckoned it's just the way they were welded together in factory that caused it .. In any case, the crap is getting cut out and new plates welded on and whole area protected as we speak .. should be all done by tommorow

Might just give it a go if I can source stock lenses cheaply ...don't wanna destroy my originals either What do you mean by plastic welding though, what's wrong with glue ? I just looked at the eastbear copies in store and the lenses seem to be clipped in and screwed on so should come out easy (not sure about stockies though)

Has anyone here bought the eastbear copy LED tail lights and stuck the factory lenses on top of them? I'm talking about the ones that look like this: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=2 I'm wondering if it's possible to reuse the factory lenses and just use the electronics/LED part of the other ones and combine them ? I prefer the look of the stock lenses with the amber indicators etc but would love to have the LEDs under them insted of the normal bulbs

I've seen enough to conclude that it's a fairly common issue due to a manufacturing fault, I never said R34s are rust buckets. if they were they'd be rusting everywhere especially with all the salt on Jap roads.

Weird because mine don't start squealing until they've warmed up (a few hard brakes will do the job) I wish someone could explain this whole squealing thing when hot/cold only..

My R34 (Xenon) headlight lenses have some sort of stains and stress marks from the inside so need someone to take them apart without damaging them and to polish them from inside and out (I can seal outside with glassylite myself later) ? I also want to install a led strip (audi R8 copies) inside as daylight driving lights at the same time. anyone know if there're shops around sydney that do these sort of jobs ?? I know you have to heat the headlights to separate lenses etc but I'd prefer a pro to do this so they can seal them back up properly afterwards etc Thanks denis

copper grease on the shims didnt do jack for me either..

I'm probably missing something ... but what's wrong with just pushing the top-left button on the unit itself? That switches between high and low..

some 'cheap' pads like QFM HP-X/A1RM squeal too ... I'm guessing they have a fairly high metal content in them. Mine are quealing like a bitch as soon as they warm up after a 10 min drive (only when slowing down to stop..no squeal on hard brakes) Anyone got any approx. idea how much Nissan charge for the OEM front pads for an R34 GTT ? Are there any other pads that are usually silent on the front but give better grip than the OEMs?

So you're basing this on what ... the fact you've never seen it before? Maybe you weren't paying attention? I had the car for more than a year and only spotted this when I LOOKED FOR IT. Search on SAU and just see how many ppl have had rust on their strut towers just like this. There's nothing wrong with the fit and finish of the engine bay, it IS factory it hasn't been resprayed. MAYBE due to the prang on the LHS guard the impact was strong enough to move the strut brace ever so slightly and the strain on the plate and the way it (ON ALL 34s) is welded to the tower allowed for a minor gap to appear which trapped moisture. Anyway, I don't know why I even bother responding to you I've never seen you make a useful comment on any topic, it's always just conjecture or smartarse remarks.

thanks Tez, wanted to see how the bronze Z7s look ..I've seen heaps of gold (not my thing)

whered you get the doluck frontbar and how much ?

what are you basing that on? the rust on the driver side strut top plate ??? From my research it appears pretty common.. The car was only in a minor accident but NOT on the driver side ..the passenger side wheel guard was repaired/repainted but I don't think it was anything more than a minor prang.

I got the DTM Rush Silvers .. but am falling in love with the Z7 bronze ..they just look sick on a black skyline. Anyone got any pics of a black R34 with the bronze Z7's ?? Anyone up for swapsies ? Mine are 18x8.5 +35 all around, minor (repairable) gutter rash on 2 wheels..

I must be a satan worshipping motorist to get < 300Kms/50l with suburban/city driving.

I believe their hourly charge is $77 ... you might find cheaper eg. $55 ph but is it really worth it? If it takes 5 hours you only save $100 going to someone cheaper, who maybe doesn't have any clue as to what they're doing or doesn't care as much as Marty does. You can save yourself some labour charges if you really have to by getting dynamat sheets yourself and installing them. It really looks simple, you just need a small roller (to make it stick good) and a couple of hours and you'd be done with the front doors. As for gear ... they can supply anything you want and their prices are VERY good (not a big markup at all) I've compared some of the quotes I was given to current 'specials' at some other places and sometimes they were even lower.

it's the top plate ..don't think the tower itself is rusted through. The welder looked at it from below etc and he said it's just because they joined the tower and top plate like that the top plate is rusting.. he reckoned cutting the rusted top plate, and welding a new one over the tower will fix it for good as he'll protect it from below this time which nissan should have done from the get go

the R34 stock skins are completely glued on which is a pain in the ass and the proseat trims use zipties which is another pita .. if you have an R32/33 and use ultimate auto trim ones I don't think it'd be nearly as difficult to do these, lots of peeps have done them

hey Ben how much did you lower your seat by ? Was it a lot of work ? Anyone else done this on an R34 ? I'm too friggin tall for a Skyline and also my front speakers sound like crap because I'm so high up (sound a TON better if I slouch inside the seat)