Wacky Dee

just search .. there're tons of topics and pics from both ultimate auto trim and the OTHER supplier (proseat). IMO the UAT skins are better as they come with all the threads ready to go for easier installation where as with the proseat ones you have to muck around with 100+ zip ties.. On that note, I just posted a pic not 5 mins ago of the back seats fitted with the proseat skins .. heading "factory seat covers glued on". Not black but gives you an idea. Oh and none of these are real leather .. for real leather expect to pay $1500-2000 .. the real stuff might FEEL a bit nicer but it's a lot more $$$ and harder to maintain as well I think.

that's my handy work ... took ages to finish. Not too shabby for an amateur and a lot of improvisation hey? But yeah, I'm letting a pro do the front seats because I don't want any of those air bubbles/creases on my fronts so I'll ask him to glue them on so they look like factory skins.

economy hadn't changed after remap ..plus the remap made the AFRs leaner as it was running rich from factory as they all do, so you'd expect that would have given me a better economy on its own but nup.. The factory o2 sensor was not dead but it was time to replace it anyway. Just surprised neither new o2 sensor nor AFM made any difference, that's all.

Oh the irony ..how's doing ALL THAT less trouble than disconnecting the battery for a few mins ? Heh. Anyway, changed my o2 sensor with a genuine Nissan one and got zero improvement. Changed the AFM too. I must be the only person on SAU who's had ZERO improvement after changing the o2 sensor. I do have a JJR dump pipe ..could that have something to do with it? Maybe the o2 sensor just isn't able to give correct readings? I read somewhere before that some people had problems with the JJR dump pipe..

anyone got a pic of an R34 with the factory Xenons with these fitted? The R33 in the OP looks like a totally different setup to R34s .. my R34 the parkers are just the small lights at the far outer end of each headlight. The R33 parkers are where my normal Xenon low-beams are on the 34. On a related note ..just how bright are these? While I don't like the yellow parkers next to my Xenons I don't want the parkers to overpower my Xenons and be too bright .. I just want white parkers rather than yellow ones.

FHRX Studios .. don't look any further. They're NOT cheap but they WILL do an excellent job and won't damage your car in any way. Tell Marty, Denis with the black R34 sent ya I only had them fix up some wiring and install dynamats etc in my doors ... don't have the moulah to do the next step. Just for approx. ref. I got quoted about $1800 to rewire the entire car properly with heavy guage wire, a custom sub enclosure, with a decent 12" subwoofer, 4 channel amp, installation and tuning (atleast 6 hours of work) etc.. it'll probably be a bit more if you need dynamat done as well. Do it once do it right .. you don't want someone scratching up your interior or things blowing up or car rattling like an empty can after a cheap job.

from memory mine was only for a couple of minutes as well until the engine warmed up a bit...

I had lots of issues with mine (GTT) and fluid replacement didnt do it ... turned out to be the high pressure hose had a leak then a few months later, the hose under the reservoir had a leak as well. Whatever you do, don't buy into the 'pump needs replacing/fixing" get the hoses all fixed first, it's most likely one of them and it's a lot cheaper than a new pump.

how long ago did you do that ? did it come back in any way? Just worried about doing a quick job like that myself since these are structural points with a lot of stress on them

from their website.. 5/98 - 6/01 Nissan Skyline 2500 Turbo RB25DET Spark Plug Part No. Recommended Plug PFR6G-11 ..but before 98 (presumably R33's ..) it shows 5's. Strraaaange.

hmm maybe the 25 neo is different, dunno ..just remember when i was looking at the catalogue for the neo it said heartange 6 as stock replacement..

Thanks guys I'l go for a quote. I got a quote today for $700 to reweld and clean up both tower top plates and a couple of rust spots on the inner rear guards.. sound about right?

finished the rear seats tonight took a pic on my mobile but left the mobile at mah parents Will post a photo tommorow.

Does the Bride rail suit/fit the stock GTT drive seat ? Or is it only for Bride seats ? I need something lower than the stock rails due to my height...

just a note regarding sizes ..R34 GTT and GTR driver mats DO differ quite significantly. I got the genuine Nismo set from performance-wise a while ago but they turned out to be for GTR (looks like the GTT were/are out of production) Anyway, there's a chunk missing in the bottom left corner about 5cmx10cm...because the GTR has the wider 'tunnel' (gearbox?) section.. It's an eye sore TBH so make sure you get the right ones..

stick with the wider gap if you've got no missfire issues ... thing is, as soon as you put more than stock boost in it, you'll probably run into missfire so .8mm to 1mm gap is good there (for me .8 was no good ..would misfire constantly at idle and low revs) Either way, the plugs you got are way too hot .. if you check the NGK catalogue they recommend heat range 6 as stock replacements. So if you've got 20-30kw more than stock I'd go for heatrange 7, but 6 would do too. Either way, 5 is way too hot. HTH.

$400 to get the strut towers cleaned, rewelded and protected (from underneath too) ..and $300 for some cutting/welding of outer rear guards that have rusted through in the same spot and get some surface rust from various underbody panels cleaned and protected.. So $700 all up to be rust free ... came a bit unexpected but it'll be a relief knowing there's no rust on the car. Gonna post a couple of pics of the strut towers shortly.

hey ya'll just been doing some reading on the various treatments of rust ... apparently fishoil is good for preventing any new rust but it won't get rid of any existing stuff plus it doesn't penetrate existing rust which could lead to more rust Apparently a product called 'Penetrol' available from Bunnings actually penetrates rust deep and takes away the Oxygen and stops any further rust from forming .. apparently don't even need to clean the rust spots up before applying this stuff. Anyone used it before ?

am pretty sure my fan clutch is "sticking" because I cant stop my fan after starting the car first thing in the morning (when it shouldn't really be on full speed as the engine is cold) and I've read elsewhere that this can screw up fuel economy too.

those things you listed don't change the way the original items work ..they do the same thing but BETTER. Wrong offsets change your suspension geometry and affect the way your car drives and puts extra strain on many things which can break (and cost a crapload to fix) ..all for what, because peeps can't be arsed finding wheels with the right offset? No matter what your taste in wheels is, you CAN find the wheels you like in the correct offset if you look hard enough and you can get them as wide as you want if you want the aggressive look. (wide != wrong offset)

Got some rust on the top plates of my strut towers and a few spots on the underbody that might need cleaning/bogging or even cutting/welding too.. Can anyone recommend someone in Sydney for this type of work that won't overcharge and will do a good job? I only know of good mechanics but the 2 panel beaters I've been to in the past are complete kunts so I don't want to go back there. Any recommendations ? Cheers

Check if your suspension bushes on that side are still on .. I lost one of the pushes (*disintegrated*) when I hit the curb recently and it was making those noises as the control arm was hitting the metal on metal everytime I braked..

Been doing some reading recently and came accross some rusty old topics ... regarding rust on strut towers. Then I looked at mine today and lo and behold the drivers side one is completely f**ked. I mean there are like 3 big paint bubbles and a few cracks and you can see rust underneath. The only semi positive, it seems to be only the top plate not the strut tower itself *cross fingers*. On the passenger side there's only one small rush patch about a cm big ..but yeah that needs looking at too. I'm very curious to know if this is a common issue on Skylines because I've found a few threads with people having the same issue. Is it possibly VERY common just that people arent paying attention to it ?? I never noticed myself until I looked for it today.. From some of the previous threads I where people got quotes to get these fixed it's not a cheap fix either ..$1000-2000 easy. Plus I have atleast another 3-4 rush spots that need cutting/welding on the underbody/wheel arches. But atleast those are not structural like the strut towers so can maybe wait until I save up some moulah ...or some cleaning/rust converter/bog can do the job for the next few years.. Would it be a BAAAAAD idea to just have the top plates on the strut towers cleaned, put some rust converter and bogged ? Or would that just slow ..or possibly mask the issue? How important is the top plate ? It seems to be only about a mm thick and I'm not quite sure wtf it's for ..extra strenght so the shock doesn't push through the strut tower on a big pothole ?? (If so why oh why didn't they just design the strut towers with a thicker metal) Anyway, if you're bored ..and not too scared to look, have a look at your strut towers please and post your findings here together with year/model. I'm gonna take some pics tommorow.

yeah that 'glare' stuff .. I might be tempted on a new car/paintjob but I don't think it's worth $700 on a 10 yo paintjob with so many paintchips, swirls etc... might as well get an exterior respray for $1500 instead.