Wacky Dee

Ive just spent the better part of the afternoon doing the rear bottom half ..gonna do the rar top half tommorow and I'd done. It won't be perfect but it sure as shit looks a lot better than a slip-on cover .. looks almost factory. I'll get the front seats done professionally as they're a bit harder and I want those looking perfect (will probably ask for them to be glued on to avoid any creases etc). All in all ...the R34 leatherettes from Max/Proseat are a total pain in the ass to DIY if you do it properly .. best to let pros do it imo. On that note ..ther other place "ultimate seat interiors" or something like that, which sells the same leatherette covers has a better design IMO with all the threads provided so you can just pull them through the foam and tighten ..beats screwing around with zip ties (headache and a half when you need almost 50 zip ties just for rear seats..)

I don't know about his "process" because I didn't stand around watch him do it, but I'm pretty sure he buffed them all out ..took a good 4 hours or so. Not all the swirls came back but 80-90% of them did and no, I didn't put them back there. Trust me, I'm extremely careful and anal about washing the car with clean mitts and lots of rinsing etc..

nah I spoke to the guy that makes and sells them on the phone and he told me they look way better with the originals taken off.

has anyone installed the leatherette seat covers from Max (proseat) on an R34? How the hell are you supposed to pull the zip ties through the foam when it compresses as soon as you punch a hole through? Also what are the zip ties supposed to hold on to on the rear side when the R34 has no bars at back of the foam in the middle sections (only around the frame) Anyone ???

I've used drdetail ...all the swirls and stuff came back after a few months after he did the detailing, so close to $500 down the drain there ($80 for interior ..just made it wet for a few days, no diff in looks) The product above costs half of what he charges and isn't actually a traditional wax/polish product at all from what I understand .. it doesn't actually sit on top of the paint it fuses with it and it has 'liquid glass' type of crap in it. Not sure where you got the waterless wash from .. you still need to wash your car with water and low ph detergent. Anyway, i'm gonna go in for an inspection and see what they say .. Edit: oops, price of their complete detail appears to be around $700 for an older car incl. swirl removal followed by application of this Glare stuff. Quite costly .. may give it a miss unless I can find some spare cashola and they offer a good warranty.

Here's an example of BEFORE and AFTER ..just happens to be a Nissan too and the BEFORE pretty much looks like my paintjob lol.. wtf? The 'after' looks like a polished brand new paintjob..

this company http://www.paintprotectiondirect.com.au/gallery.html that I saw mentioned in another thread sells this "Glare" product that's like a special polish that lasts for 5 years and requires no further polishing/waxing, yet giving a mirror like finish... At first I thought my R34's paint is way too far gone for this but then I looked in their gallery and some of the cars esp. bonnets have worse fine scratches and chips BEFORE treatment and look like a fricken mirror after being treated with this product ... Wtf ? How can this be real and not be more popular? Also the whole kit seems to be under $200 (DOUBLE MEGA WTFWTF!?) I've been thinking of respraying my whole exterior with same colour BUT might just try this stuff for a small fraction of a price of a paintjob... Anyone here used it ? Is it really as good as they make it seem ?

oh yeah and the installation instructions that I got from the leatherette supplier are for an R33 and I was told they'd be the same pretty much ...not even close, totally different seats and the R34 skins are NOT glued on (except inside the seams)

just decided to put on my leatherette seat covers on today properly and I've taken off the original factory skins off the backseat and passenger seat ... complete pain in the ass because they were COMPLETELY glued on to the foam underneath, so I've lost 2-3 mm of foam in about 30-40% of the surface... Anyway .. few questions ..for those that do this sort of stuff 1) What sort of glue should I use to glue on my leatherette seat covers on to the foam? Something that won't burn/destroy the foam or dry too quickly while I'm putting it on and tightening it etc. 2) is there any sort of 'spray on' foam that you can buy so that I can fix up the seat foam where I've torn off bits ? Something that can be easily applied and spread and that will dry and connect with the factory foam Thanks all.. gonna glue the rears on tommorow (still gotta tighten it with zipties around the edges too) but I've pretty much decided to take the front seats to a pro as they're impossible to separate the top and bottom half of the seat so it's a total PITA to put the front covers on..

www.smashtech.com.au $1500 respray in the original colour.. and they've got some ppl here vouching for their work http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...&hl=respray

You can have it shipped to Japan and sprayed in the original Nissan factory for $7k. I've had my old car smash repaired from a major rearend collision and resprayed for less than $7k and that's including a lot of genuine panels etc.

Man you should see some of the rust spots on my 34 ... especially at the back under the wheel guards and fuel tank. Proper holes none of this surface rust nonsense that's gonna take another 10 years to eat through the panels.. Think my 34 was in some snowy region of Japan with a lot of salt in the air... too scared to ask for a quote to have a few of these spots fixed up knowing how much these brain surgeons with 10+ year of education charge... oh wait ..never mind

stick with close to factory offset specs unless you don't give a crap about affecting the wheel geometry. This is why GTR wheels have a different offset and you're not meant to stick them under a non GTR..It's not just a matter of "will it fit and fill my guards" when it comes to offset. Going wider wheels with same offset doesn't affect the driveline centre or whatever its called..

try and stay close to factory spec ie. +35/38 (I could be wrong but fronts I think are 35 and rears 38 on stock wheels) so that you don't change the wheel geometry too much. 18x8.5 +35 F and 18x9.5 +35 works really well. Have a look at NZMO's (David's) black R34..

I can still hear the lifters on a cold starts but much shorter ..only about 30 seconds or so and not so loud. Used to be a racket for about 3-4 mins before changing to thicker oil... Just stick some 10W40 into it ..can't go wrong.

there was a pretty popular spray painter in Syd who does exterior respray for $1.5k ..forgot the name but if you search for 'respray' it should be in one of this year's threads. But yeah doesn't help you much if you're in Adelaide .. but still, $5-7k ? LOL. Seriously people, they're not ferraris.

I have an R34 with 18x8.5 all around (+35 offset) and i regret not getting 9.5" at the rear ... 8.5" on the front is fine though. 7.5" would just look silly .. the stock wheels are 17x7.5 iirc..

did it? And where is it located precisely ? I don't notice any 'roaring noise' when I hit the gas pedal or maybe I do but am assuming it's engine noise? Just replaced the o2 sensor and AFM and still same shitty 18-20l/100km economy...city driving (lots of stop'n'go) and mostly short trips.

changed o2 sensor ...AFM .. still getting 18-20l/100Kms .. It's not the cost of fuel that shits me as I drive 6-8,000Kms a year but the fact it drinks as much as an old pos v8, it's emberassing when someone asks and I tell em 20l and its not even heavily modified (stock turbo ..only about 190rwkw)

I'm sure it's BB because it's just the stock turbo highflowed by GCG .. they're the #1 turbo company in OZ for new turbos and highflows so you can be sure you're getting a great turbo here. I've inquired with GCG and they charge close to $2k to highflow your stock turbo so this is a great price for anyone looking for a decent upgrade without the need to upgrade your stock AFM, Injectors or clutch ...

Hey Mick who's the guy in Hornsby and can he actually remove the headlight lenses and fix it up from both sides? I need to take the lenses off anyway as mentioned above because I want to install led strips as daylight driving lights..

I'm sure a machine polish would make it look shinier as it's hard to do it by hand after wet sanding ... BUT, as I said, mine appear to be fogged/stained from the inside and the stress fractures don't appear to be on the surface at all .. so the lenses are pretty much rooted. edit: ... unless I take the lenses off completely and do the insides ... which I need to do anyway to install the LED streips I bought

usually not the biggest fan of white skylines but this one's an exception cause everything fits so nicely incl. wheels, bonnet, dark tints and no wing .. great looking car

How sturdy is this thing ? Not sure it'd be so great if instead of creating downforce it ripped off and flew away into someone's windshield at high speed...

glassylight ..didn't do jack shit for me. Still same stress fractures and it looks like stains on the inside We should get someone to take a mould and make up glass lenses and do an R34 groupbuy