Wacky Dee

and that ... should be illegal IMO, unless those "notes" can be tracked to exactly the event and officer who left them which I suspect they can't. So it's basically one pissed off cop who was in the wrong venting ..leaving false notes so that in the future you get into more trouble for no reason. Shouldn't this be covered by FOI ? If I were you, I'd demand to know all the notes that they have on their internal system... Next time some trigger-happy rookie might pull a gun on you thinking you're stabbymcstabber who doesn't hesitate to pull a knife.

hm yeah that's what I always thought too but I've heard from more than one reputable tuner that they can increase the airflow slightly and throw the afrs out of whack ..it doesnt make sense to me either

To me it sounds like they crossed the line ... handcuffed? what the f**k ! I'd go after them on principle alone. It depends on how much you value your civil rights, how much time and money you have. Maybe try to find out atleast what they have on your record ... I'm pretty sure they must have come after you because your rego plate came up with "This dickhead was arrested for carrying a knoife, cried to a magistrate and got off .. get the bastard" Unless I'm mistaken there's that FOI act and you can fnd out what any gov agency has in their records about you. If they've got something like that on their squad computers .. they will probably keep f**king with you. Even more of a reason to take them to court.

they're all on crack. I'd say the VAST majority of people on SAU use BP Ultimate exclusively.

from memory it only affects the AFRs by a miniscule amount something like 0.1 or 0.2 parts eg. if your AFRs were 11.5:1 before they might go up to 11.7:1 with a good pod setup.. So it depends on your tune really ... for any "safe" tune eg. 11.5:1 AFRs, I wouldn't stress about it. But if your tuner squeezed every bit of power he could and put you on something like 12:1 then I'd get them to run it on the dyno with pods, recechk the AFRs and listen for pinging Then again, you're driving a R34 GTR Vspec ... don't be stingy, get it checked on the dyno. On a side note ... unless you're looking for that whooshing sound or your car makes more than 300rwkw, stick with the panel filter as it more than provides enough airflow as I'm sure many highly modified GTR owners here will testify to. PODs are mostly for the wank factor and the whooshing noise for most people.

Joe, if I were you I'd take them to court over that. I'm no lawyer but I'm pretty sure cuffing you, going through your personal txt messages and making snide remarks is more than a breach of your civil liberties and also a breach of police conduct. Got any loans that need to be paid out? Sue those f**kers. If your story is not BS, it sounds like a slam dunk case. unless of course you're a deadbeat of some sort with a criminal record, then i wouldn't bother..

It really takes one losing their licence for a few months to realize how much that sucks and to slow down IMO. Also, when it comes to being pulled over and getting away with it - this is a verrrrrrry grey area and depends on 3 main factors 1) Your prior record ie. if you've never been pulled over for speeding before - there's a good chance that you will get away with it - heavily reliant on following points 2) Your attitude. Especially in combination with #1 above - if it's your first offence and you're not a dick you might get away with it. Having said that, I would still advise anyone in this particular situation to NOT admit to anything - your goal is to try and preserve that virgin record, trust me - this is your get out of jail free card and something you should hang on to for dear life. No matter how serious your offence, if you take it to court with a well prepared sob story AND clean record there's a GOOD chance you will get away with it. Cops know this. 3) the cop's attitude and/or personality and current mood. If you can tell the cop is cranky and is out for blood, just keep your mouth shut - do NOT admit fault or talk back. Keep your trap shut. If the cop seems in a good mood, be friendly but don't admit to any serious offence. The above is brought to you by "been there done that, don't believe the bastards even when you think they're being nice, chances are they're trying to avoid going to court because they have no evidence" Or if you simply don't have the nerves to play their game, always be polite and submissive and hope they're not stingy with the lube. Always keep in mind that they're just doing their job and part of their job is revenue raising - if it wasn't for all that revenue, they'd go bust. At the end of the day, if you don't speed - you don't have to worry about any of it - just goto SAU track days to get the speed demon out of the system is the best solution.

I was gonna say "He probably filled his quota for the night already or got laid the night before... or both. You should dob him in for not enforcing the law. " but then I thought nahhhh ..

yeah i've read about that stuff .... is this the best there is ? Should I not use Penetrol or hydrochloric acid to treat the surfaces ? I'm worried if I use either of those that once it burns it will actually create gaps'/material that might induce corrosion

My 34 has some rust around the strut towers ..around the edge of the top plate going outside towards fenders (but not too far). So I've got strut towers cut out from a healthy lookin R33 at the wreckers and will be getting the top plates cut out, rust cleaned out and treated and then new plates welded on top ... Anyway, just wondering what sort of rust treatment to use that will not burn off completely during the welding process ? As there's no way to use rust treatment once the new top plates go on as the area will be sealed off from outside

hey mate I have a similar issue ..very bad rust in the same spot on my R34 and it's been cut and bogged before but rust came back so i've just got new top plates (clean towers cut off a wrecked R33) Do you know what you guy did .. did he remove the original top plates and then treat the area and then weld new top plates on? what did he use to rust proof the bottom plate before welding on new top plates ? I'm taking it back to the same panel beater that did the dodgy bog job on mine as he's charging me less this time (only $400) but this time to take the original top plates and do it properly. But if the rust ever comes back I'm gonna f**king cry. Don't know what to do .. what to use to protect the bottom plate once the tops are off because the welding heat will probably melt any rust proofing

dooo eeeeeet there's nothing better than a white skyline with black rims. I saw one recently ..no bodykit either, just stock R34 wheels sprayed black (elcheapo job) and it looked so nice. White skyline + black wheels + black/CF bonnet + black/cf mirrors + rear wing side garnishes = ZOMG

Bit of background... My 34 has some nasty rust on the strut towers and the only way to clean it all out is to cut the top plate off and replace with a new one and obviously at the same time, protect the plate below by rust proofing it for the future... I've already sourced new top plates from wreckers so now just need to take it to the panel shop to take out the old strut tower top plates (they will cut them out and pop the spot welds so that we don't have to remove the WHOLE top plate which goes under the front guards as the section towards guards isnt rusted). Anyway, the new top plate will need to be welded on top of the strut tower. However before we do that I need to rust proof the bottom/main strut tower plate underneath so that rust doesn't come back. But since this is going to be tig/mig welded I'm thinking any rust proofing like Penetrol will melt away from the whole area once the welding starts due to the immense heat. And also obviously once the top plate has been welded on I can't rust proof any more as the bottom plate will be sealed off and inaccessible..(other than through tiny gaps UNDER the strut towers which are the source of the moisture .. friggin sandwich plates) QUESTION: Is there ANY rust preventing stuff out there like Penetrol that won't melt away/disappear from the protected surfaces if you weld nearby ???

impul kits look nice on light coloured 34s

Wait WHAT !?! Are you saying my oil didn't arrive on a magical flying sled pulled by white unicorns ???

Yeah i bet you don't get senseless acts of vandalism like this in countries where firearms are legal. f**kwits here fear nothing because worst that can happen is they cop a beating - but usually they're either too big or too young to get beaten up so they just don't give a f**k. If someone did something like that to me (the guy that got his door and then head, kicked in) and I had a weapon of any sort ... seriously I don't think I'd see the outside of a prison for a long time. Which is why I don't have a weapon (short fuse as it is).

Thanks Duncan. I'll drop by their place tommorow as they're just a short drive away from my place and sus out what sort of vibe I get from him ;D Just for laughs ..when I first bought the car I paid $500 to the import shop to get the timing belt changed. Get there to pick it up and they go "oh we don't do it here ..we gave it to a "specialist". I'm like no probs mate. Car comes 2 hours later ..driven by a 16-17 year old mechanic who looks like he just came off the joyride of his life. Car's engine bay is f**king steaming hot like the car was on the track all day (it wasn't even summer) so I go ...ah well, probably just took it for a good test drive to make sure timing belt's ok. Then I find out later they stuffed up my CAS timing completely and weren't sure if they did the water pump or not ... suffice to say I didn't go back to that joint ever again. So yeah here I am, 2 years later ... with a noisy idler bearing and no idea about the condition of my timing belt or water pump, redoing the whole lot again. Just for those wondering why I'm asking for recommendations .. heh. Thanks for the PMs and keep em coming. if you can't bother going into details just PM which shops you've had good/bad experiences with - anything to help me avoid costly time wastage. Cheers

yeah i've been looking for a while ..lots of closed threads and lots of people recommend my regular mechanic. But they're too busy and i get the feeling they're not keen on doing any normal servicing types of jobs ...as they get a lot of cars for tuning and are booked out most of the time. I've driven past that place on Victoria Rd in drummoyne a few times ... been in the shop too (nice lady sold me a gtr cluster for less than half advertised price ;D ) and I knew they sell import cars but never knew they have a mechanic at the back. That place is only a 5 min drive from me so if anyone has any good/bad experiences with them please PM me (DO NOT POST HERE PLZ) Cheers

Mod note: I'm asking for PMs - no discussion about any particular shops here please, just PM me if you can be bothered, thx. Anyway, my regular mechanic seems rather busy (as usual) or can't be bothered doing these types of simpler jobs so I'm looking for a reliable mechanic in Sydney who can change my R34's timing belt/water pump and bearings. Would prefer a smaller/quieter shop that doesn't have craploads of foot traffic like my regular mechanic who I've never seen do any job fr more than 5 mins without interruption as the shop is always packed. In particular interested if anyone's had any experienced with that import mechanic in Drummoyne on Victoria Rd. PLEASE PM ME, DO NOT POST REPLIES HERE. Cheers

could some do me a favour and check in nissan fast whether the R33 GTST and R34 GTT strut towers are the same part ? Mine have a bit of rust and the only way to clean it properly is to cut the top plate off, get another one from a car that doesn't have rust and re-weld the top plate... seeing as how there's more R33s at wrekcers and they look very similar I thought it might save me a few bucks if I can get them of an R33

could some do me a favour and check in nissan fast whether the R33 GTST and R34 GTT strut towers are the same part ? Mine have a bit of rust and the only way to clean it properly is to cut the top plate off, get another one from a car that doesn't have rust and replace the top plate... seeing as how there's more R33s at wrekcers and they look very similar I thought it might save me a few bucks if I can get them of an R33

should be good if they're only 20k old .. they will outlast the car easily. Um not sure how to check if the ignitor module is playing up, but I'm sure I've read it here somewhere before so just do a search (keep in mind only S1 R33s have it .. S2 is built into the coilpacks). Also check the AFM solders. If you've just quickly cleaned the AAC valve did you check and make sure the old paper gasket didn't get damaged in the process ? Or maybe you moved the idle screw by accident ?

possible missfire ? if it keeps happening I'd check the coilpacks and ignitor module (if it's an S1) and also the spark plugs. Just tape up the coil packs or start the car (cold) in a dark garage with the coilpack cover off - if there are any visible sparks, it's the coilpacks.

depends on the oil viscosity and how warm the engine is (or how cold it is outside on cold startup) eg. I think normal is around 2 when completely warmed up. Also on cold startup, if it's a cold morning it should be between 5-7 (higher is better as the oil is thick when cold) Having said that, the stock oil pressure gauges are notorious for playing up... I had mine take a dive to 1 or so for a while but has since fixed itself.

Here you go .. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Fan_Clutches...65-details.aspx but that's for R34 GTT .. probably same for R33 but if you want, give them a call and make sure. EDIT: come to think of it .. I still have my old one which works perfectly, you can have it for $50 and if it doesn't fit I'll take it back. I only changed mine in an elimination process amongst many other things whilst trying to reduce my fuel usage. (turned it was just the coilpacks + 40psi tire pressure gave me a drop from 17l/100Kms to 13l)