Wacky Dee

mate it's not like I'm some stubborn dickhead not listening to peoples' advice .. I've tried everything that's been recommended here and in other threads, but I'm not about to put a lubricant onto my brakes just because you say it works .. I'd be careful dispensing advice even with a warning, when it's something that can kill people.

Great science there, put a lubricant onto brakes which require friction ... The only way i can see this MAYBE work for SOME is if the WD40 collects enough pad dust (just before you kills yourself) to clog up the small gaps which cause vibrations, but that's just dangerously stupid, sorry. Copper grease on the shims tries to achieve the same and is a better/safer solution but even that doesn't work (for me) because of the pad material causing just too many vibrations.

my tuner (Yavuz from Unigroup) also recomended Nistune ... cheap and fully tunable and has auto-retard etc. Obviously you don't get nifty little features like logging, hand controllers etc but it's cheap and does the trick.

please explain the science behind WD40 stopping brake pad squeal ... I think my mechanic was right, if a pad squeals nothing will shut it up because it's just the pad material causing too much vibrations and the only solution is to get a different pad

Have had the QFM HP-X in my R34 GTT for a few weeks now ... with brand new slotted rotors. They were bedded in properly but still squeal insanely loud after they warm up, whilst slowing down ... Tried copper grease on the shims and no difference. I think it's just a dodgy pad material causing too much vibration. Does anyone know how much Nissan OEM pads cost for the front for an R34 GTT ?

Ok I've tried everything and they're still squealing as soon as I put a bit of heat in them (a couple of hard brakes does it) Just had the shims on the front pads covered in copper grease and they're still squealing like a bitch. I think some pads just squeal and that's it ... QFM HP-X are loud squealing bitches. Time to get Nissan pads I think. Anyone know how genuine Nissan OEM pads (front) cost for an R34 GT-T ?

farking hell dude ... I'm tempted to burn my car, scam the insurance (to pay off loan) just to get yours!! Just joking but yeah ...farrrkk, wish this car was for sale when I was looking to buy my R34 Cmon people ..best GTT you'll ever find for this sort of money and nothing more to spend!!

hey guys can anyone confirm if these are Nismo LEDs ? Cheers

I found one on importmonster recently was "only" $650 but with all the shipping and other fees came to $1100 Shame no one makes a copy of the Nismo LEDs because as you said, they look stock unlit and don't look so tacky.

I've tried PlastX and it didn't do jack for my R34 GTT headlights (or anywhere else for that matter) .. is there a place in Sydney that does headlight restoration? I know Final Inspection in Melbourne does it and I've seen some pretty amazing results My R34 looks like it has small stress fractures more than 'yellowing' so I'm not actually sure these can be restored.. so it'd be good to get a professional opinion.

hub rings are just metal rings made to fill the gap ... ie. if your wheel's centre hole is bigger than the hub centre there's gonna be a small gap when you fit the wheel on. So the hub rings is fitted on the hub lip to make it wider so that when you put your wheel on, it fits snugly...

how does shannons compare in price vs justcar for a daily drive (R34) ? Anyone been with JC and switched to Shannons ? From memory my premium with std. excess was close to $2k ($22k agreed) and I'm 28 with 60% NCB good driving record and live in a low crime suburb ie. not western sydney

are you selling your stock AFM by any chance? If so please PM me .. thanks.

what's the intercooler brand? is that the justjap return-pipe one (stealthpro or something) ?? does it come with all the piping or just the core ?

I've been with JC for my last 3 cars incl. my current R34 and when renewing my insurance they wanted to drop the agreed value $2k or so and I told them not good enough, so I got a call back and they were happy to leave it at the previous insured value ($22k iirc) because I've been with them for a while (and even though I made a big claim on a previous car) so I'm pretty happy with JC, they haven't screwed me over *yet*.

get the HKS Silent Power from JJ... it kicks ass

no the stock clutch from all I've read will be fried in no time with that sorta power... clutch slipping is easy to check, drive down onto the highway and drive at 50-60kmh or so... then put it in 4th and put the pedal to the metal... If the revs go up quickly without the car accelerating accordingly, it's slipping ie. the revs should match the speed/accelaration of the car. If the car struggles to accelerate (as it should in 4th at such slow speed) AND the engine is not revving its nuts off, it's not slipping. That's my understanding anyway. Don't want to alarm you but if I were you I'd start saving for a new clutch because the stock one won't last long with 250rwkw.

yeah mate fronts are bigger on the GTT (rears are the same though). Sold to pintaline!

sure thing .. $5k and it's yours ;D

bump

or you could just go the cheap route and retrim your stock GTT seats! Hint: check my sig

$100 for anyone that picks these up this week, need em gone or they're going in the shed.

sorry mate what I meant was, did you give them your stock turbo and they return it to you highflowed etc or do they give you a brand new turbo and you keep your turbo ? also with the clutch from what I've ready anything pretty much above 200rwkw and the stock clutch starts to slip badly and you need something with more bite Thanks

hey Daniel what sort of ecu, injectors and clutch do you have on your R34 ? I'm guessing the stock clutch wouldn't cut it with 250rwkw right ?? How much did the turbo cost you all up and did they use your stock R34 turbo for the highflow?

too expensive mate ..found one for $60