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Wacky Dee

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  1. Interesting topic .. just had new rotors (RDA slotted) and new pads (QFM HP-X) installed on my GT-T and I still have the soft pedal feel up top (2cm movement) before any sort of grab .. Gives me zero confidence in the brakes Also my brake pedal slowly sinks by about .5cm every 10 seconds or so when you hold your foot on it which is not a major concern as I don't need to hold my foot on the brakes for a long time as most my trips are around town. Anyway, gonna try rebuilding the calipers .. see if that fixes the useless soft feel at the top. It shits me when a 10yo corolla has much better brakes than a street skyline of the same age, especially after spending $800 on new rotors and pads.
  2. tbh I'd prefer a local (sydney) buyer as its very bulky and a pita to send so I'll leave this up for a while longer.. I'll let you know if it doesnt sell
  3. does it matter what sort of grease it is ? is there a specific one for this application? How can I check if I still have the shims ? My rotors and pads were changed ..I've read in some other threads sometimes you lose your shims ?? All a bit confusing as I still can't picture wtf "shims" are or how they're used in brakes even though I've read an aticle about it on "how stuff works" Edit: never mind about shims ..this page explains it a bit better (picture paints a thousand words) http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/PICS/BrakePads/BrakePads.html Still don't see how this would affect squealing however .. I thought the squealing is simply due to the friction between hard pad surface which probably has some metals in it against a metal rotor..hmm. So metal on metal = squeal... But since some pads are softer or contain rubber etc they don't squeal... or so I thought.
  4. not much really ..mainly cosmetic difference. IMO s1 looks nicer esp, the stock front bar on the s2 is horrendous.
  5. strange I'll have to have a chat to them about that then ... seems like a humongous waste of time if they gonna have to take the pads off again Thanks
  6. geezus christ you really need to be sitting in this forum all day refreshing to get a decent deal like the PFC .. sold within 7 mins ? what the fark man... good for you.
  7. yeah but those 480cc ones will need some sort of aftermarket ecu management .. he said he didn't want bigger ones (presumably for that reason specifically)
  8. just had my regular service done and chrono 300v put in ... car seems to run pretty much the same as before with a much cheaper oil ("Hi-tec" brand ..same viscocity as the Chrono) but I've notieced something that's a bit of a worry now ... Every time I start the car from cold the oil pressure needle stays on 0 for about 1-2 seconds before it quickly jumps to 6kg/cm. With the old oil the oil pressure needle would instantly jump up without this delay. Should I be worried ? It's as if the Chrono doesn't build up the required oil pressure for 1-2 seconds on cold starts ??
  9. so it normal procedure to put copper grease between the shims and back of the pads ?? Because I don't recall the mechanic putting any grease on after installing the new pads and rotors
  10. how's that work? copper grease on shims behind pads .. ??
  11. how much for brake master cylinder provided it's fully functional ?
  12. Looks like mine is a goner and need replacement. RHDjapan sells the OEM one for $420 but I was hoping to get an aftermarket one locally and hopefully cheaper. Anyone know where to get these ? Cheers
  13. Looks like mine is a goner and need replacement. RHDjapan sells the OEM one for $420 but I was hoping to get an aftermarket one locally and hopefully cheaper. Anyone know where to get these ? Cheers
  14. also interested in the triple guage wiring loom ..price ?
  15. Hey David are you gonna be using the existing tripleguage wiring loom for MFD or a new one? If you're not gonna need the existing loom would you consider selling it? I converted my R34 from the pop-up screen to triple guages but I don't have the correct wiring loom for the triple guages..
  16. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere on SAU before that the series 2 GTT (2000 onward) had Garret stamped on the stock turbo ..it was just slightly different from the s1 (metal vs plastic exhaust wheel??).. same power though.
  17. I'm pretty sure it was prestige motor sport
  18. seen them on ebay quite a bit $20-30 or so..
  19. interested in the bootlid ..how were the holes covered and was it resprayed? Would you take $150 ? There's another one for sale on SAU right now for $150 and has been for sale since Aug last year, but it's the wrong colour for me (need black).
  20. can i get a price on the front lip (was it glued on and can it be taken off?) and the wiring loom for the console triple guages ..? Cheers
  21. yeah I've seen that nissan optional lip .. doesn't really do it for me TBH. One of the big Skyline traders in Sydney that was doing some paintwork for me had one in stock and offered it to me for $500 painted/fitted iirc.. Have you got any more pics of the car taken during the day with normal lighting ? Cheers
  22. Ah crap ...I just re-read the reply from Eastcoast Susp. and just realized I missed this part completely... "I checked with Lovells & as the 'normal car springs' are conical in shape, the rate is variable, the average rate of the front spring is 140lbs & the rear is 160lbs, these sound soft, however they will be firmer thanthe originals" Hmm ,..average rate ??? Is that the spring rate all manufacturers quote ? I'm so confused now. Might be better to stick with Whitelines anyway just to be sure I'm getting good stuff.
  23. yeah I'll give these Lovells a miss then ..will ask if they can get the whitelines in instead. Thanks guys Oh and as for lowering ..didn't intend to dump it on its ass .. there's still like a 3cm gap between top of the tyre and the guards so I though another 2cm lower wouldn't look too sus as far as cops go and would look nicer as well
  24. I think he only sells hub centric ones that have their own bolts ..not slipons that can be used with the Nismo longer studs ? Also i just read somewhere that the standard bolts are only 25mm and the Nismos are 60mm .. so unless you're planning on using 35mm spacers the studs will be portruding too much or maybe I'm missing something
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