Wacky Dee

All I remember was that when I kept insisting on getting a 'heat range 6' plug because that's what everyone on SAU recommends I was given a lecture .. in a nice way I remember Yavuz saying, have a look at the tip of the spark plugs when we take them out next time and if they're fouled and not perfectly clean I'll eat my hat - or something to that effect. Anyway, I was getting the same shit economy even before the spark plug change and I'm pretty sure the previous plugs were 6's so they're unlikely to be the cause of the bad fuel economy. I've read quite a few threads with people who get similarly crap economy as me who've changed the o2 sensor and nothing improved. So I might just start with the injector cleaning/replacing seals to rule that out as it's quick and cheap (found a mobile injector guy)

I need to get my brake rotors/discs either machined or replaced as the rotors on all 4 wheels are lipped and I'm getting new brake pads soon. But since my tuner/mechanic is a fair drive away and very busy I'd like to find out if I just need to leave the car with him to get the rotors machined or if i need to buy new rotors, so as to have the car in/out asap ie. so I can buy the rotors now and take them to him instead of mucking around in case they can't be machined. Anyway, what's the stock R34 GTT rotor thickness and what's the min. legal that can be machined? I'll get them measured by a local tyre place so that I can make a decision to either buy new rotors or book in machining.

It's been a while now since I had this chat with him about spark plug heat range (at least 6 months) so I'm not gonna quote him for fear of misquoting ... erm if that makes sense. But if my memory serves me correctly, he presented his argument well and it made perfect sense at the time. Yes he could be wrong rah rah rah but I trust his advice, so let's just leave it at that and leave the spark plug heat range out of the discussion

mr gray, I've been driving the skyline for a year now and not getting more than 300km/50l - that's close to a thousand bucks in wasted fuel compared to most other similar skylines so THAT's why I'm going on this little crusade to once and for all fix this issue. o2 sensor showed up as OK but it's a 11yo car and it since new ones are dirt cheap, why not give it a try? Same thing with the injectors..what's the harm in getting them cleaned and replacing the seals when it costs < $150 ? The odo may say 70k but who really knows what the real number is since it's an import. As for vaccum leaks, you didn't even attempt to answer my question (which was how it might affect performance and/or fuel economy) but instead used it as another excuse to continue your stupid attack. Maybe I don't have the necessary tools, time and experience to f**k around with engine repairs myself, did you ever think of that ? I think your whole response can be regarded as one of the ugliest, most useless responses of 2009 so far - you've done nothing but aggravate me with your high and mightyness without answering a single question. Well done.

fuel filter was changed at most recent service ..not sure about pump. Oh and regarding heat range, not so sure about 5 being the stock one. Anyway, I'm going with 7 after getting a talking to from my tuner (Yavuz at Unigroup) about idiots that use heat range 5 and 6 in skylines

does anyone know the correct/best o2 sensor replacement for an R34 GTT? I don't want cheap substitutes from other cars but don't wanna get ripped off by Nissan OEM either..

I had a similar issue when one of the tuning shops pushed the turbo actuator rod the wrong way .. the car would make a rattling noise that sounded like it's coming from under the car somewhere. The justjap mechanic after a bit of trial and error noticed a scratch on the chasis near actuator and saw that someone pushed the actuator the wrong way .. so he pushed it back the right way and the noise stopped.

I have a '98 R34 GTT with 70k and when I had my spark plugs changed a few months ago (heatrange 7, coppers) and gapped to 0.8mm (stock coils) the car was misfiring BADLY when idle and up to 3000rpm .. it was like a constant popcorn sound and shuddering. So the tuner changed the gap to 1mm and it fixed the misfiring for the most part. I can still hear/feel the occasional misfire/shudder when idle and I think it's getting worse when switching gears etc so I am seriously considering getting Splitfires (only $620 delivered from ebay) I also get very bad fuel economy of 16-17l/100km around town with occasional squirts but mostly very timid driving. The tuner checked the o2 sensor codes and says it's working. My plans are to get a brand new o2 sensor, splitfires, 1.1 gap heatrange 7 plugs and to get the stock injectors cleaned. On a slightly related note, I have developed a small vaccum leak since I have got the car. The tuner looked it over and reckons it's somewhere "after the butterfly and it would cost up to $800 in labour" to find where it is and to fix. How does a small vaccum leak affect car's performance and fuel economy? When I first got the car my EBC (greddy) was showing -98 or -99 vaccum when idle but now it's in the -80's or higher and only once the engine warms up completely it goes up to -92 or so, so there's definately a vaccum leak somewhere. Anyway my plan is to get Splitfires, new spark plugs with the default 1.1 gap (heat range 7) a new o2 sensor, get the injectors cleaned, put a FMIC at the front (the stealth one from JJ) and then get the ecu returned by Toshi. Can anyone recommend which type/brand of spark plugs to use ? I'd rather get something recommended by other skyline owners than whatever my tuner has in stock. I want coppers heat range 7 with 1.1 gap. Also most importantly, where can I get my stock injectors cleaned properly ? Is there anyone who does this in Sydney? Cheers

I just got my greenslip (NSW) renewal from QBE and it's $623. I'm 28 also live in a good area and have max NCB. Car's a 98 Skyline (turbo/manual) and I just got a quote from Allianz over the phone for $639, wtf ? I mentioned to the lady that you got quoted $331 and she said she can't tell why that is without looking at your quote to see what the difference is. I even mentioned that your car is an older model .. Any chance you can provide me with your Allianz quote # ? If not I understand. Since when is CTP so friggin expensive ??? It's my first time renewing CTP on the skyline and all previous cars were never more than $400. $630 for greenslip is a bloody joke!!!

hey Brett. I take it you tried Nistune ?? How long ago? Looking at Nistune's FAQ it says they don't do boards for R33/R34 but then in their product section they've got this "type 4" board for $440 and it says it works with r33/r34 - I'm not too sure what to make of that, maybe it's a new board that works with 33's and 34's ?

If you don't already have a z32 afm or electronic boost controller I'd say go the Vipec as it costs $2k or so and it includes boost control and doesn't require an AFM (z32). PFC is really old tech now although tried and proven but it'd cost you approx. $1500 to get one + z32 ($300) + boost controller ($500 or so installed) so it seems cheaper to get a Vipec. I am also interested in Nistune for my R34 GTT and I'm not quite sure why you think its more exxy than PFC when it costs < $500 vs $1500 for a PFC. Not sure what the limitations of the Nistune boards are though compared to say a PFC .. anyone?

this looks interesting ..something for the newbs like me who drive their skyline as a daily. Cheap to get it out of your system instead of racing on public roads .. I'll see if my mate's interested and I'm probably in how much is helmet hire ?

thanks for that Daniel. Yeah I'll probably give the JSAI front a miss .. its just too bloody low esp. if your suspension is already lowered. Looking at that pic of the JSAI frontbar it looks very low and thats on STOCK suspension height from looks of things. Man I wish he'd make just that bottom diffuer thingy (2-3cm height tops) attachable to stock front bars ..I reckon that'd be a huge favorite with any r34 owners. I might just get the eastbear front diffuser (8cm) and leave the suspension height as it is (about 2fingers clearance) but its exxy...about $850 for the diffuser alone. At least the EB diffuser is that fibreglass/plastic mix (not just plain fibreglass) so it should handle scraping and small hits a lot better than plain old fibreglass

I care about both, but no so much "opinions" as "experiences". So anyway what's the law ? pretty much every r34 gtr with that vspec frontbar that I've seen has about 5cm clearance between bar and road. VB .. some people say that but others seem to think that it really depends on how well built the fibreglass bar is, I remember someone recently posting how he's punished his fibreglass frontbar quite a few times and it had never cracked due to it being well built there's no way I am raising the car, I was actually thinking of lowering it another 2cm or so .. it just looks weird raised eg. factory look

can I get some feedback from some of you guys with very low frontbars/lips .. how much of a PITA is it for daily use ? I'm thinking of putting that JSAI ztune frontbar with the diffuser on my r34 but it's very low so I am a bit concerned about possible clearance issues. It's 10cm lower than the stock front bar so it would leave me with only max 5cm clearance and I've scraped the stock frontbar a couple of times going in/out of dodgy driveways

I can't believe this GTT hasn't been sold yet with all those mods incl. GCG and PFC ... damn man. Have you tried carsales.com.au ? If not, try there ..SAU has a limited audience most of whome already have a skyline. Oh and I wouldn't mention your driving record / loss of license, it just rings alarm bells to a potential buyer that it has been trashed. I applaud you on your honesty, but lets be frank ... when you're trying to sell something, you should try to only mention the good stuff. Mentioning that you're pretty much a hoon won't help you sell it. Just IMHO..

can someone explain the different between bush and ball bearing and upsides/downsides? Cheers

o dorifto ..ahggeddit now

why do people not like hicas anyway ?

1.5 bar (22psi) on standard R34 GT-T AFM .. you're bsing me right?? I'm looking to run 15-16psi tops What do you mean by 'fpr' ?

hm never heard of this nistune daughterboard before .. at $240 for the board I'm surprised it isn't more popular around here ?? What are the limitations on these boards .. can they be used to tune AFRs and ingition timing ?

lucky bastard whoever buys your GTT he he

gday dave, looks tops .. I love your front conversion but I'm sure I've said that before many a time I should have listened to you when you said 9.5" rears ..grrr, I have only myself to blame. I thought if I got 8.5" rears I'd be able to rotate them with fronts and save some money on rubber, but now I'd prefer the wider rears over an extra few months out of the tyres..

Have a look at Bakes black R34 GTR .. not sure of exact rim model but they ain't cheapies, i believe you're looking at around $4k for such rims oh and they're gold and I reckon his is the best looking R34 on SAU and I'm sure many people would agree. As for sizes... 19" looks good on a GTR but looks silly on a GTT no matter what your kit is. You do realize that you rolling diameter must remain the same as the factory 17"s right ? Which means, if you go 19" rims, you would have to use extremely low profile rubber and that means very harsh ride and looks like shit, but each to their own. Oh and 19" rubber can cost 50% more than 18" rubber, which is already expensive as it is if you buy anything half decent. If you want cheaper rims that look good on a black GTT check out the DTM Rush Shadow Silver (or anything in the DTM range for that matter) .. they're about $1400 delivered in 18". I recommend 18x8.5" fronts and 18x9.5" +35 rears for a GTT. There's a trader on SAU who supplies these. I have these rims on my black GTT and they look tops (stole the idea from someone else on here! ) the only difference is I have 8.5" rears too which is a bummer, wished I bought 9.5" for the rears.

mine came off completely with the paint due to the metho and I haven't noticed any creaking .. I suppose you could just improvise, buy some material, cut it into stripes and glue it on. I doubt you'd find a direct replacement anywhere ie. same width etc.