Wacky Dee

cheers guys I'll give this a go as soon as I can find some suitable washers

You don't need to replace the "fan" unless it's broken. The fan is bolted on top of the "fan clutch" which itself sits on top of the water pump pulley ... you just need the "fan clutch". It's that chunk of metal that your plastic radiator fan is bolted onto ie. http://www.google.com.au/images?hl=en&...330&bih=935

I've read they're not noisy if you get the tension 100% right ... which is hard to do. So yeah if you don't like weird noises, go with a Nissan one as they're far less prone to making noise. Search for "whining whirring noise" - there's a big thread about gates belts.

well seeing as how you're asking (and been trying to sell them for 3.5 years now) - because you're asking too much for them. I've seen numerous sell (front and back) for $200 or so. And no I'm not looking to buy any, just answering your question

you mean from this side ? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...09-IMG-0322.JPG- dude the whole chassis is bent as f**k you don't think tie rods might have suffered damage? Seriously I don't know why we don't have strict laws about selling mechanical/engine parts from wrecks like this

yeah ... I'm almost certain the noise is just the idler bearing and its been gettin louder so I'm worried it might snap soon ... I've seen 3 youtube vids (2 of them from sau members) with the EXACT same noise from same area, that went away completely after they changed their idler bearings. So i'm hoping that's the problem with mine too. Only weird thing is .. when i listen to the noise using a stathoscope I get the most noise from the cas bolts ie. just behind the (exhaust?) cam near the top of the engine and the idler bearing sits a bit lower than that (I think) but obviously I can't get to the idler bearing area to listen to because of the plastic cover

I was wondering if the timing belt cover (near the top of the engine) can come off to expose the cam gears or is it a one piece cover that goes all the way down ?? I want to take the cover off so I can better inspect where I'm getting noise from on cold starts ... anything that I should be aware of ? in regards to cover ? or cas ? how do I make sure the cas goes back in exact same position when I've take the cover off? cheers

I wouldn't bother .. new one is $200 .. easy to remove. It's that big chunk of metal that sits just behind the radiator fan (it spins the fan) - just 4 studs holding it.

I wouldn't bother .. new one is $200 .. easy to remove. It's that big chunk of metal that sits just behind the radiator fan (that spins the fan) - just 4 studs holding it.

your fan clutch could be farked ... you will notice your fuel economy worsen very soon. New ones are about $220-250 from memory (not Nissan but aftermarket, some joint in Melb iirc sells them) Definately change the thermstat if you haven't in a while ..theyre cheap

I know this one!!! It's VERSACE isnt it ???

wait ..idler pulley is just behind the cam/cas cover right ??? edit: never mind .. that'd be the exhaust cam pulley ..hm why would I get noise from this area then ?!? it sounds EXACTLY like in the youtube vids I saw where they fixed it by replacing tensioner/idler bearings but those sit much lower ..just above and below water pump ??

resurrecting this because I've been battling this annoying fkn noise for the past year or so again...cold startups only. Just did some research and it appears that the most likely culprit is a dodgy timing belt idler pulley bearing ... that's exactly where the noise is coming from and looking at a couple of vids on youtube eg. - that's exactly the type of noise and the 2-3 I read through, it was fixed with an idler/tensioner bearing change.Now just wondering whether to redo timing belt/water pump as I'm not so certain these were done or done properly at least together with the pulley bearings or just do the bearings ... Does anyone know how much the tensioner and idler bearings cost ? Would the timing belt have to come off to change the 2 bearing ? I'm assuming it would ..in which case, probably not a bad idea to do the belt and water pump too hey

now I'm 99.99999% sure it's neither lifters NOR exhaust manifold/gasket/bolts .... but rather the timing belt idler bearing. I got one of those things you stick in your ears connected to a long metal rod (like doctors use when listening to you breathe) and the noise is most loud at the top right of the engine just behind the timing belt cover. Then i found a couple of vids on youtube from other SAU members who had that exact same noise in the exact same area and when they replaced the idler/tensioner bearings it went away! Can't frigging wait to get this done now... parts alone cost $600 (nissan timing belt/water pump, idler and tensioner and bearings and studs ... rocker cover gaskets.) How much do you reckon I should pay for labour for all of the above?

tie rods off of THAT ?? it's scary to think that anyone would consider reusing any mechanical or critical engine part off this wreck Good to know you walked away from that one, I'm sure ambos and fireys that arrived at the scene had you written off as well

can we pay for cinema tickets when we get there? 2 tix needed

I've had to go through this .. my recommendations would be: park in garage and make sure it's alarmed/immobilized, don't use handbrake just put it in gear, roll it back and forth once a week/fortnight and let it idle for a few mins once a fortnight so nothing dries out completely (internally), disconnect battery, recharge battery once a fortnight using trickle charger, put some of those dehumidifier bags under seats. After six months, change the oil. I also change the fuel as it does degrade after a few months and mine's turned for 98ron. Easiest way to disconnect the fuel return line and simply let it idle ... obviously put the return line into a bucket to collect the old fuel. After 5-10 mins it will empty out the tank and stall. Get a canister of fresh bp ultimate and off you go.

another vote for performanceclub.com - unbeatable prices and service from Harold. Get your good oils from him, faster than trying to track it down from local autohabibs franchise and less bull.

I've put in royal purple 15W40 and have noticed no change in terms of "lifter noise" on cold startup. Still the same and still goes away after about 1 minute. I'm starting to think it's NOT lifter noise at all .. quite possibly leaky exhaust manifold gasket or snapped mainfold studs. Then as soon as some heat gets there, the small gap closes and the noise stops ... For the life of me I can't see the exhaust mainfol at all looking through the engine bay .. do I have to remove the undertray and look from below to check the manifold gasket/studs?? Ps. www.performanceclub.com for all your top of the line oils - best prices anywhere and you can get viscosities that normal OZ distributor doesn't even carry (like the RP 15W40)

when fitting new gauges in stock holders.. just use bluetack to hold them in place, cheap and works without any mess

Yeah I'm pretty sure the car came from a salty part of Japan... I've already had some rust taken out ... rear inner guards where salt laden ice/snow would stick (I've seen it as I lived in eastern europe ..all cars have ice hanging off those inner guards during winter). That didn't come back obviously ..but yeah the entire underside has mild surface rust which I plan to do a once over with Penetrol as soon as the struts are done and I can find someone willing to let me use a hoist for an hour or 2 As far as the panel beater goes ...he's redoing the struts under warranty so atleast it wont cost me anything. He said he's gonna get some "acid" (presumably phosphoric acid which i've googled and its commonly used to prevent any new rust forming) I just gotta find this Penetrol stuff and give the whole underside a good coat. From what I've read this stuff really does its job as long as you cover it all properly and don't leave any uncovered spots. What's a good type of paint to use on the underside incl diff etc once I've applied this penetrol ? Something that won't crack or be easily broken by rocks and so on

Was always wondering what it's actually for ... I assumed to provide some sort of rigidity and I suppose it is. But reading some comments on a commo forum just before made me wonder if they're actually of any use or just add 10kg of dead weight to an already heavy front end. One comment that made me lol was "its about as useful as an ejection seat on a helicopter" referring to the standard braces you see (factory options usually) that just tie the 2 strut towers together. Actually the reason I've been contemplating getting rid of mine is because I used to have some rust around the strut towers that was removed and repainted about a year ago .. but has now returned. I'm thinking maybe the brace is somehow forcing the struts to 'bend' during cornerning in a way that opens up gaps and allows moisture to get trapped from below (or maybe the panel beater who fixed the rust just did a shit job)

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...twin-p-426.html He's also in QLD .. fkn annoyingly slow web site. I can't believe how lazy some people can be, I've cancelled a big order from this site once a year ago because its so slow and was timing out and he still can't find decent aussie hosting, Wow.

not for sale any longer, could a mod please delete this topic entirely. cheers

hey guys I heard someone in the ACT runs the wheresmyride web site. If you're that person could you please PM as I'm very interested in the system