Wacky Dee

Do NOT clear coat it .. looks like ass IMHO. Just do 3-4 coats of the colour you want and do very light coats each time and allow 10-20 mins drying time inbetween if using the powerplus paints and then let it all dry overnight after final coat. Dan that's exactly what it looks like .. silver/grey with a tiny bit of gold in it. I experimented with 2 different colours before it (matt black and silver) and they looked nowhere as nice.

I understand the purpose of it and I'm "probably" in for the next GB due to finances right now .. but I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the Cusco one has a rubber cap so that the brake cylinder isn't hitting metal on metal as that can damage the cylinder and that all these other copies are just completely made out of metal. edit: I suppose it would be rather ease to just glue on a piece of rubber on the part that touches the brake cylinder so I guess it's a non-issue. Will you run this GB again later this month? Cheers

what are the chances there is damage to the cylinder wall if you stomp your brakes real hard and the cylinder instead of flexing pushes against the stopper??? Wouldn't it be a good idea to have some sort of thick rubber cap there instead of metal-on-metal ??

Good choice I've used powerplus tungsten too, looks tops I've done my doors too and just have to do the speedo bezel (took one out of a R34 gtr dash) now as it's slightly different colour (grey/silverish) Can anyone recommend a cheap trimmer in Sydney ? I want to change my carpets (the moulded carpet not the mats) to black ones as I'm getting creme seat covers installed soon.

there are a few screws there..just have a better look mate, the switch will pop out when you take out all the screws. If you have the passenger side trim off the door already, check from underneath ..there are a couple of screws there holding the switch and the plastic surround in place.

so it always lights up the 'engine' light on the dash?? I've never seen that light up and even before the car was tuned and when it was knocking on the dyno..

how does everyone notice/hear "engine knock" when driving ? How would you describe the sound ? I hear an occasional pop when downshifting but I'm pretty sure that's from the exhaust with excess fuel being burnt...

my GTT is lowered only about 2cm and I have side skirts and aftermarket rear bar .. wanted the eastbear front lip but am slowly changing my mind as I today scraped the front bar pretty bad coming out of a driveway. If I had a lip (an extra 7-10cm) it would have been smashed to pieces... not practical at all. I might just lower the car another couple of cms or get a different frontbar altogether that sits maybe 2-3cm lower tops

That's exactly what I did for my GTT ... Powerplay Imports (sydney) had 4 GTR used dashes in stock (from all their customers who got the Nismo ones) priced at $250ea but i got it for way cheaper than that and just took out the bezel. Just be careful when you remove it, its stuck in there on to a dozen or so of those plastic pins which eventuall pop with a bit of force. And no, the GTR dash CANNOT be used in the GTT ..different configuration etc.

apparently it was just one of the hoses under the reservoir that was slightly leaky .. they reclamped it and replaced fluids and apparently it wasn't making any noise after they tested it (left the car day for an extra day to make sure). I have the car now .. should know for sure by tommorow when I start it first thing in the morning, but yeah it looks like its been fixed.

If you're in Sydney take it to Unigroup (www.unigroup.com.au) they will be able to tell you what's going on and give you an accurate dyno readout..

my issue had nothing to do with drive belts..it was a powersteering issue. I just spoke to the powersteering place apparently it's been fixed - a leaky hose again (even tho all inlet/outlet and even high pressure hose were changed less than 6 months ago) Oh well atleast they're not charging me for it. What can cause powersteering hoses to repeadetly fail? Bad quality material? This shop is supposed to be one of the top powersteering specialist..

I have Bilsteins in my GTT with stock springs lowered about 2cm and the ride is pretty rough.. thinking of actually lowering it a bit more but I'll need to get either kings or lovells springs as the stockies cant go any lower.

Getting my front rotors replaced and rears machined soon ..so I thought I might as well get the master cylinder stopper installed but I'm not sure if this is even necessary for street driving or just racing where you might need to hit the brakes real hard ...? Saw this one on ebay for $70 anyone used it? how's the quality ? Or should I just get the cusco one for $165 ? or none at all? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-R32-R33-R34...rts_Accessories

can I get a price on the slotted F+R rotors for R34 GT-T please ? Also, which pads does everyone recommend for normal street driving (no track/race) ? I don't want whiney pads or ones that wear too quickly..

ok my ones are like the ones in the 2nd photo here (green gtr) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R34-eyelids-EYE-LID...A1%7C240%3A1318

don't have a pic but I'll take one tonight and post it later .. my eyelid corners have already snapped off (the pointy bit) as they were very thin and brittle and got caugh on washing glove during a wash..didn't take much to snap them off for only $80 I'm tempted to get some myself soon and replace mine .. my car's black but I'm not sure how the CF would go with it or if i would still have to paint them

I got my GTT about a year ago ... with the full turbo-back 3" exhaust (HKS Silentpower) it made 155-160rwkw so your reading does seem a bit low. Also note that with the factory ecu you simply CANNOT run more than 9psi boost because the factory ecu is NOT tuned for it and it WILL retard the timing and your dyno results will suck. Stock cars run waaaaay too rich hence you get RNR (rich and retarded) You can get your factory ecu remapped which is a LOT less expensive than getting a powerfc. I had my GTT ecu remapped (ignition timing and air-fuel ratios) by Toshi here in Sydney for about $400. If I were you, I'd get a FMIC first and then go and have the factory ecu remapped with better ign. timing and AFRs. With a remapped ecu I now run 11.5psi (anything higher than that and you will blow your stock turbo eventually) and get 185-190rwkw. That's even without a FMIC and pod ... I wish I'd gotten a FMIC/pod because if I put them on now I'll have to have the ecu remapped again (which is another $300-400 ..the downside to not having a PFC is every modification you make requires a ecu remap). If you're going to get an aftermarket turbo, then get a powerfc because remap won't be enough once you get a new z32 AFM, bigger injectors etc.

Maintenance? What you want him to replace your spark plugs and oil filter after wining and dining you? You get to enjoy a free dinner, meet some nice people. No more of 'vandalism or rock chips' than there would be if you drove the car down the road to buy a kebab... Got da dorifto? It's not a Ferrari mate..

very nice ! I should have got those eyelids instead of the stupid nismo ones that only cover half as much area ..ah well. How much did you pay for those if you don't mind me asking?

hehe you're probably right I just didn't think there's a BEND in the exhaust as pictured, before the cat .. well atleast on my exhaust there isn't it goes catback, muffler (all one piece) then cat, then a bendy front/dump pipe .. I still reckon there's no cat on that exhaust, just a straight pipe incl. a front pipe (that bendy piece) with the dump missing

got that from http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R34-...rts_Accessories I'd love to see what they look like on an R34 at day/night though !!

you do have a point but R34 pfcs can still be found for around $1400 (one went for that price just recently) 2nd hand .. and most people already have an ebc. But yeah if I didn't already have an EBC installed and was looking for an ecu this would probably be my choice to. How much for the V88 ? I take it the major diff is the knock detector?

any chance you can take a piccie of the hose in question Steve and post it up here? Just so I know what I should be looking for.. The psterring liquid reservoir doesnt appear empty, liquid up to the middle of the indicator when you take the cap off.

wd40 shouldnt be sprayed on the belts from what I've read it will MAKE them squeal etc not stop. I have had new belts squealing issues as well ever since I had them changed ..bit of tightening of the alternator belt fixed the squealing but every once ina while it still does it..