Wacky Dee

they're in melbourne iirc .. I'll probably go with bodyform as he has the best rep on SAU, but anyway, I mainly wanted to know the size of the bar ...

the ac module should be the same ..but the AC fascia is definately different. However the factory radio fascia has a weird angle so you cant just take it out and pop in a 2din stereo. You need to get the double din fascia as well AND also the 2 brackets that hold the entire centre console in there ... I've just been through this conversion, trust me you will need 1) AC fascia, 2) double din stereo fascia 3) the 2 brackets that hold the ac and stereo and the fascias in the centre...

yeah thought so ..will do. I suspect it's out by 1cm or so but according to Heasmans when I asked them to check they said "1cm out is within spec so woudln't cause any traction loss" so hmm..

I'll measure it all tommowo and try and get a wheel alignment readout asap.. Dave, what do you mean by "sills", you mean chasis to floor distance near the wheels?

does anyone know how much lower the top secret front bar (R34 GTT) is than the stock front bar? Also can anyone recommend a shop to supply, paint and install one? I know of 2-3 places in sydney that sell it but not sure which one of them would provide the highest quality item/painting/fittment .. justjap? bodyform? jsai ?

Here's a few more shots .. the last 2 are from the front wheel/suspension. Does this help?

ok can you please tell me what you mean by 'side on' ? Did you want a photo from under the front of the car ie. front suspension?

ok this will sound stupid, but what are pineapples?

how can 480cc's be running out of flow at <250rwkw when stockos people get 220 ?? From my previous research on this topic people were saying you can get close to 300rwkw on the 480cc's IIRC..

nisskid that's precisely what the jax bloke said (and he wasn't some young apprentice either ..the manager of the place in his 40's) BUT even with all that .. at the very least, as soon as I get some money I WILL take the car to a tyre shop, get that rear tyre taken off and inspected more closely and both wheels rebalanced.

nigga please, I came here before I spoke to 3 different people who'd be in a better position (who coould SEE the bloody thing in real life) and probably more qualified to make a call. If either magman or the JAX guy said "nah that looks bad, replace it" I wouldn't hesitate for a second. I was the one who thought the tyre is a goner too but they changed my mind. If you're gonna comment, try to atleast read all the posts first and comprehend them before lecturing others. There's a fine line between safety and throwing money away. I'm sure if either magman or esp. JAX manager WHO SELLS TYRES for a living, didn't think the tyre needed replacing, why would I care what you have to say anyway ? I didn't ask for YOUR specific opinion, just a general opinion BEFORE I went and asked the pros. I explained what I was told by pros and as far as I was concered the matter was settled. So dont get so bloody serious just because I made a tongue-in-cheek remark to someone after he/she makes a valid but completely pointless remark.

Thanks for your non-expert opionions then

well I'm broke as a church mouse right now and it's a brand new tyre other than for the bit of damage done to it ... if I had some cash laying around, sure, but everyone (qualified and non qualified) seems to be of the opinion that she'll be fine so I'm gonna have to go with that. Besides its the rear wheel so even if it does pop it wouldn't be nearly as bad as it would be with a front with all the engine weight on it right ?

I took it to magman who reckoned I should just glue the bit back on (like my dad) and then stopped on my way back at a JAX store and the manager looked at it and said the same thing, not to worry about it as that part of the sidewall is designed to take a hit and that was its purpose and to just glue it back on ... I woulda thought since its 6-7mm thick it'd be serious, but apparently not, yay! I have one unqualified, one semi-qualified and one prefssional opinion and all agree to glue it back on so I guess that's what I'm gonna do magman was booked out for another 10 days or so but the rim damage should cost about $200 to repair all up .. no way to get it back to the way it was he said because of the way the lip is designed (rounded) right next to the rubber so he'll have to polish it down and it will have a flat instead of rounded surface all around hmm.. ah well. Coulda been worse I guess.

fark no way to glue the tyre back with some industrial strength type of rubber glue ??

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

as has been said before ...every mechanic can be a bit of a hit and miss affair. I like Unigroup and have only been taking my car there after getting my line and trying a couple of other places first, but one time they stuffed up big time by misdiagnosing an issue several times which ended up costing me more money than it should have. But to be fair, the issue wasn't easy to diagnose and a 3rd party (specialist) was involved which pushed the cost up... But yeah, I'd still go back to them for any work to be done for the simple fact that Yavuz, Mark and Darren are all top mechanics and are easy to deal with and not full of themselves. When I had my car at CRD once for a EBC install .. I felt the guy (Jim?) rushed the job and seemed completely disinterested ... probably because it's just a run of the mill < 200kw skyline and not a 500+ hp monster that he works on regularly, but still...

used to use bp ultimate only since I got my R34 ... but only get 300kms out of 50l of fuel which is about 16.5l/100 Kms ie. HIGH. My ecu is factory but remapped so it is NOT running rich, however I do drive around town exclusively with a lot of stop and go traffic. Recently started filling up with Caltex Vortex 98, but mileage is the same (300Kms from 50l) except I am starting to notice exhaust fumes now .. not sure if it's just the fuel that stinks more or if I got a leak somewhere recently (exhaust? some gasket ? hmm)

driving back home today I hit the curb at low speed (10-15kph) in a sharp bend (was trying to save my lunch as it fell from the seat grrr...) and managed to scrape the front LHS outer rim right next to the rubber ..about 25cm long scrape right along the edge, the tyre wasn't damaged. I'm pretty sure this one is repairable ... but the rear one is the real worry, especially the tyre which is close to new This is the rear ... the alloy was cut into a bit deeper and scraped off, you can still see the piece hanging on there and there's a chunk of rubber about 5cm long that has also come off the sidewall of the tyre. At the deepest point the piece of rubber sidewall that came off is about 6-7mm thick. Is there any chance this tyre can be repaired? With sikaflex or some clarkrubber type of glues etc ?? I don't take the car to the track, mainly (spirited) around town driving ... can't really afford any of this crap right now as I'm totally broke so if I can repair the tyre that'd be great. But then I don't wanna risk the tyre blowing up at high speed and throwing the car into oncoming traffic ... it's a $280 tyre anyway. Do you reckon this is repairable ?? I know of a couple of reputable rim repair places (magman and this joint at Thorleigh) and I'm hoping they can fix both rims for < $300, but what about the tyre itself? Is it a goner? Is it unsafe to glue back the sidewall by a tyre repair specialist (if there is such a thing) Cheers Denis

where'd you get them for $35 each ?? The cheapest I could find was $200 for a set of 3 from justjap.. The thing with aftermarket ones is that each guage requires extra wiring and parts to be connected which could end up costing me another $300-500 in parts and labour

I recently converted my TV/Satnav (factory Xanavi setup) to the standard R34 triple guage set up .. I still have the subharness from the old satnav setup in there and was wondering if there is an adapter/converter of any sort that can turn that subharness into the one that connects to the triple guages ?? Cheers

sorry champ, if they were 18x9.5 +35 I'd swap ..but with +25 I'd have the same issue as you

hm I better take some piccies and post them up here hey ? hope you can take a look

hey guys can anyone confirm this or tell me how to check which position/setting my rear subframe alignment kit has been set to ??