Wacky Dee

yeah it's a bit of a pita to change the rear bulbs as you have to unscrew the whole assembly ... Take off the plastic cover from inside the boot and then unscrew all the screws ie. 5 or 6 of them on each side and the whole light assembly will pop out. Shouldn't take more than 5-6 mins though so I suppose it's not that a big deal.

I don't quite get the obsession with japanese rims ... what's the big deal? Most of them look plain and boring. Sure they may weigh 5kg less for the set but unless you're racing the car, who gives a damn ? Oh and DTM is an NZ brand afaik

yeah I was about to say go check Doski's gallery .. I have the same rims, also black 34 .. They look heaps better IRL too Very cheap and more unique than any of the standard catalog rims you see everwhere

have had DTM's on my 34 for a few months now .. still love them, especially the chrome/shadow silver colour... One issue though, most of their rims apparently never arrive with hub rings (mine didn't) so you need to find the right size hub rings to fit them. It can be a PITA but most big wheel shops have them if you're lucky.

dr34pr on a black 34 ... miiine a lot of randoms ask me if I'm a doctor .. ugh, nubs.

the alternator belt is pretty tight already ..too tight IMO. There's only about 2-3mm flex in it when it should be 8-12mm from what I've read online. I've also found some info online that says it can also squeal if it's too tight I'll try loosening it up a bit .. will let yous know how I go.

I'm thinking of getting a tension meter to check the tightness but I can't quite work out from that pdf what value I should be getting .. ??

nah aircon is not on .. so it's either the fan belt or the other one. What do you mean by 'is it already a bearing' ?

I had all my belts replaced recently (car's a 34 GTT) and next few days the belt were squealing so i took it to a local mechanic who tightened them and that stopped the noise. however a couple of weeks later the squealing has resumed on every single cold start .. the belts are pretty damn tight (imo feel a bit TOO tight) and I don't wannt take it to the local mechanic again as the bloke's very young and might decide to tighten them even further as the only solution adn this might damage the bearings etc I'm afraid. So anyway I got some belt dressing spray which is supposed to make the belts grip better and not squeal ..my question is how do I apply this stuff? do the belts have to come off ? I mean it's like a hairspray can and pretty big so its impossible to reach the belts from under the hood. Also I can't apply the dressing on the entire belts as they can't be turned when the car is off (or can they ??) so I'm kinda stumped .. anyone done it? any tips?

I got a tuned (remapped ecu) R34 GTT with new spark plugs, full turbo back exhaust ..standard bov, O2 sensor and cooland sensor were checked and said to be fine and the car does not run rich as it's been tuned and I get 300Kms inbetween refills which is 50 litres exactly. The mechanic looked at my fuel lines and said they look fine (no leaks) so I've no idea what else it could be .. probably just normal for my driving style which is around town mostly under 70Km/h but I don't baby it but don't redline it either ie. rarely go above 4200rpm but I do hit boost quite early (under 3k) Oh yeah the car's had a full service done on it too..all oils changed, belts etc

bump

I was quoted $450-600 over the phone a few weeks before I went to Heasmans. it was complicated ... heasmans were the ones putting in the extra grooves into the shocks so I took the car there because they had my shock, before the shocks got lost again. I waited for more than 2 months and was sort of in no situation to pick a place. yeah i got ripped badly .. I think they quoted me $700-800 for supply and install of new springs too. ugh..

bump

just wanted to say that Heasmans are a bit of a rip off when it comes to installation of these kits .. I was charged close to $1000 for installing the shock, caster kit and camber kit (he said 8 hours??) and nothing else (not even springs) on an R34 GTT and they didn't even get the height correctly because both my front and rear are the same height now when the front is supposed to be 1cm higher...

why not just get a decent r34 gt-r, a brand new n1 engine (one of the sponsors sells them) a nice genuine kit like a do-luck and a kick-ass paintjob rather than fantasize about a photochop that could cost half a million bucks to recreate irl.

that rear bumper looks pretty cool .. which one is that ?? I need a new kit for my car, sick of the stockie look ...Also does anyone know how much a r34 gtr wing goes for and where to find one? Is the visibility better worse or the same compared to the standard gtt wing? So many questions i know..

bump

yeah after so much drama it's not funny .. 3 months late, wrong parts sent to the suspension shop that were doing the work who had to use some of their parts etc but yeah finally here and to be honest, not the best $2300 I've spent, shoulda stuck with my stockies ... Ride feels more violent now and the only consolation is it's 15mm lower so it looks slightly better. Tell ya what, if I were to do it all over again I would just get lower springs and wait before the stockies died which could be a who knows how many years from now..

Item: set of standard GTT shocks Age: stock so approx. 9 years / 65000kms Condition: OK I guess (felt better than my new Bilsteins to be honest) Price: make an offer To Fit: (What car) R34 GTT and possibly others Location: Camperdown, Sydney Contact: PM Comments: Just got a set of new bilsteins so no need for the stockies any longer .. they don't seem to be leaking and when they were on the car, they felt real good - in fact less bouncy than my new Bilsteins so hmm, don't know if that's good or bad. Anyway, also have the stock orange indicators both front and sides .. the left hand side side-indicator is slightly diff colour from the rhs one (car was apparently in an accident so the front left side indicator is after market or something) make an offer I'll try and take a pic as soon as I get my hands on a camera

my trusted mechanic (popular among SAUers) mentioned last time I should get rid of my k&n style of panel filter which is oily and replace it with a cheapass paper one and just change the paper one every few months. he reckoned the oiled filters are no good on cars such as skylines that rely on AFMs because very small particles of the oil from the filter will reach the afm and affect it... What's everyone's opinion on that? I thought the k&n type of oiled panel filters were quite popular ... While we're on the topic, how much does a good pod filter + enclosure cost on average?

nope, spoke to Matt on friday and was told he's gonna take the missing shocks from someone elses order which was still missing some other parts and ship it out to me on fri or today .. didn't happen, again.

my mechanic said he can get a new one in for me anytime for $1220 (wholesale price obviously) so asking people $1400 for a second hand one is a bit silly imo

It's a serious offer not being a smartarse. Since there is no apparent interest in these items and he seems keen to sell it and I do require these items (but NOT at any price) I'm making an offer that I believe is realistic. If someone else offers more I may reconsider my offer but until then, take it or leave it.

$1000 for the lot

I'd be happy with 16l/100Kms economy if that meant my normal driving ie. boost when I feel like it and not think about fuel. In fact that's the economy I was getting before my last service when the oil and spark plugs got changed ... so I will be taking the car back to see if they can find the issue. It could be a dead O2 sensor or something like that. 16l/100kms when driving around at 2000rpm just isn't cool :|