omygod

SOLD!

I found some photos of when I first fitted everything...all shiny and all that.

I was using DR552 ML500 rotors 345x32....

I have one set of calipers off a R33 GTST and one set of R32 GTST calipers that were modified/altered to suit 345mm rotors. I have since replaced them with even bigger brakes. They are in good working order and have been debadged. The Nissan logo was milled off to clear rim spokes. They will come with half worn Apexi Blue Pads in the R33 calipers and Akebono pads in the R32 calipers and of course all the pad hardware except the mounting bolts. NOTE: Going cheap because they are modified to suit larger rotors and not a stock caliper. They were rebuilt from the ground up to ensure function of seals and pistons. Can post Aust wide. Im asking $200 per pair. Contact me via: [email protected]

Hi Its Gus here. Yes I bought Adam's car. Ive done 'some' nice mods to it since. Its definitely a sleeper that surprises some people who think they have fast cars... I need to sell it as I am getting close to finishing my gt40 project and some big bills like paint and engineering fees are coming up. Otherwise I would be mad to sell my 260...I mean I just spent all this money recently on it in engine mods, reliability, servicing, interior styling etc etc... My view of a 260 is, it is the best thing since the gtr....as I get older, the ol two seater coupe gtr is not very functional as a daily driver...but why miss out of the gtr power... I've tuned the car fairly conservatively at only 17-18psi (for N1s that is)...but a quick visit to a dyno and a fine tune on the nistune ecu that is installed will allow you to unleash its full potential... Then you might consider bigger tyres

This is a great arrangement of resistor onto the housings! And if you want to go back to lilliput, you havent damaged the housings in any way... Btw, you can use 5mm leds even in the smaller T3 enclosures...the reason they dont drop down enough is because there is a ridge/lip on the LED...if you can get access to a lathe, you can machine down the led bases (just shy of the junction) to a single diameter to suit. They press in nicely into the T3 housings and sit a mm shorter than the original lilliput bulbs! Ive attached a shot of the modified 5mm LED and an unmodified one. My climate control looks awesome with a white background!

Ok I have to add to my last post. It seems not all throttle bodies are created equal. In my batch, some have poor seals on the edges of the throttle flap and some are perfect. I suspect this is a messup on Hitachi's part..and Nissan fixed it up with their magic sealant they dont want to talk about... After checking the tbs, Ive found that only 2 out of 3 sets were "letting light through" and could not be adjusted to be shut properly... I've used a slightly evolved sealing procedure to the one described by GTRPSI: 1) Lightly line the bore with moly grease (to stop the throttle getting stuck or damaging the bore during step 2. 2) Reset the throttle stops until the flap has resistance in the bore and then wind it out 1/3 turn or more until the bind is free. 3) Then clean bodies again with methylated spirits 4) Place a 1.6mm spacer between the throttle stop and the arm causing the throttle flap to be open slightly more. 5) Mix up some RTV sensor safe silicon with some butane (polar solvent) to thin it down to paint consistency... 6) Paint a light coat on the body near where the flap contacts on the opposite sides of the flap AWAY from its movement. So you dont want the flap moving into silicone but moving away from it. 7) Let set...then using a scalpal, cut close to the flap and then free the throttle. 8) Clean the throttle flap and any excess 9) Now remove the spacer from the throttle stop.... The flap will close against the silicon and have an amazingly tight seal due to the resistance on the flap... Then the linkages get reset according to the r32 manual... This then gives the IAV a much larger degree of control over idle. With my cleaned bodies and reset WITHOUT the sealing, the lowest I could get the idle was 1000rpm. Not bad but not good either. The sealing required the IAV Idle fine adjustment screw to have a dramatic effect on idle...

Ok, Ive got the tbs were in front of me...Im cleaning em.... So I figured, has Nissan *really* put a coating in there to seal up its throttle body?? So I dig deeper....nothing in the factory manual about adjusting these flaps or replacing a coating or whatever. Just a very comprehensive page about setting the optimum length for linkage tierods...clue 1 So I dig deeper...wouldn't there be a replacement can of goo from Nissan for this perhaps maybe 88 dollars for a 150g of this stuff? I mean the "black coating" comes right off with your hand....no harsh acids or 190 proof grappa either.... Well Tomei have a throttle coat...A quick glance at Tomei's site tells us the entire procedure of putting goop on....apparently it improves throttle response (literally to pedal response). http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...hers_gauge.html It says NOT to put it on the main body...only the flap. Curious, so if it does any sealing it is relying on the throttle flap to do the sealing...Makes sense, well thats what the job of a throttle flap is when closed! However how big a gap is this meant to close? Its not intended for that primarily....Btw primary ingredient is molybdenum disulphide.....clue 2 From what I can see, some people are over-zealous with their cleaning attempts, flexing the throttle shafts and somehow damage the throttle shaft seals on the sides...or leave some dirt right up the shaft seal area which acts like a wedge holding the tb open slightly....These are delicate precise things... Well then a good clean and a reset (if required is to be done). It is ideal that all the flaps seal. Also note that there are THREE air bypass routes for idle control. Two in the IAV (a bleed screw and the solenoid valve itself and a supplemental air path in throttle body 1. So it stands to reason that: - The factory tbs need to be clean to operate properly. - There is no sealant that nissan use at the factory. There is no empirical evidence to demonstrate its being applied aftermarket. - Cleaning the throttle bodies does not result in idle problems however improper cleaning may cause idle problems. The throttle stop screw for each throttle body requires some time to reset...not long...just a few minutes to get the position right. It pays to use some moly disulphide grease (CV Joint grease) on the flap edges and the stem while setting it. Once set, there should be NO gaps visible....these are precision NC machine surfaces and hardened....flaps are batch stock and are "best fit" however are matched to each bore and adjusted to seal. Of course there are going to be factory errors, minor warping due to peak engine temperatures...so perhaps some correction is required... So moral of story.... 1) Clean well, with toothbrush, metho, perhaps a zap or two of throttle body cleaner for stubborn bits.... 2) Check seals. 3) Lubricate. 3) Reset stops (if required). Then follow the linkage tierod setting procedure in the RB26 manual. (In R32 GTR factory manual it starts on page EN37). Then final idle adjustment should be done using the IAV bleed screw.

I've managed to get MSII working with EDIS 6 on R33 GTR...I bought the board from the US...sourced the parts here here through Jaycar etc...and the hard to find ones here: http://pjoz.com/electronics.htm#msquirt

Im running MSII with EDIS wasted spark setup myself. I ordered the board from the US and sourced the parts here... Found an aussie mob that sells the "hard to find" components... http://pjoz.com/electronics.htm#msquirt