mitch32

Found out the inspector broke the signal switch when he was inspecting the car. I change it today with one from a GTS-T into my GTR and works 100% properly.

Hello, I'll make it short, I have a r32 gtr. In Canada we need daytime running lights. I wired up straight from my IGN to the parking-lights and used those are my daytime lights. Now the issue is that my high beam is stuck on when the low beam is on. I tried the switch and seems to be ok. I can't flick the high beam lights now they just come on all the time with the low beams. I looked for a relay and I can't seem to find one that works properly. The H/Lamp relay in the fusebox doesn't seem to be doing anything, if I unplug the relay it still does the same thing. Is there a relay for the high beams? I tried disconnecting my custom IGN to city-lights for the Daytime running lights and still the issue is there. Thanks Mitch

Thanks. I'll put both the drain from the oil catch tank (or as the manufacturer calls it, a breather tank) to the exhaust side of the car, and the rear head drain also to the exhaust side. Some people in this thread say dont drain from oil catch tank to sump, others say to do it. Then people say to drain to intake side cause its cooler, then others say drain to the exhaust side for vacuum. Very confusing, but a top notch read.

This thread is out of control. There is a lot of information and I am lost. I've read pretty much all 33 pages minus 1 or 2. What I got out of it was (for my setup, mostly street but sometimes track bnr32 Rb26 with an N1 Oil Pump and r34 crank) was the following: - Run a 1.5mm restrictor (only need one correct?) - Run a drain from the back of the head to the sump just above the fill line on the sump on intake side - Run a catch can that vents to atmosphere, drain to the sump above the fill line on intake side (PVC block, lines from each cam cover) - Enlarge the oil returns by 2mm Can someone please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this or if I should do something different. This thread help me learn alot but now I'm confused on what to do. Thanks Mitch

For the twin turbo pipe try a cotton wheel with polishing paste (for gold or steel doesn't matter). The other pipes try cleaning it but honestly probably best option is strip the paint and then repaint with some VHT.

Hello, I have a r32 gtr. My oil pressure never goes above 3kg/cm^2 no matter the RPM. Its around 2kg/cm^2 at idle then after 3kg/cm^2 it doesn't move. I have tested it with multiple gauges. I'm pretty sure the pressure relief valve is tired and not working properly. I'm pretty sure its been like this since I had the car, I've only owned it since April and driven about 2000km. So I was thinking of either changing the relief valve spring or shimming it. I'm not sure if I have to lift the motor, is there a way to do it with the engine still in the car? Thanks Mitch

Hello, Is there a way to check if the oil pressure gauge is functioning properly? Or of a way to check if the wires are bad? I just replaced my oil pressue sender with a new one from Nissan. With the old sender my oil pressure would read 2kg/cm^2 at startup then 1kg/cm^2 afterwards and wouldn't move. With the new sender it reads 2kg/cm^2 constantly and will move to 2.2kg/cm^2 but no more. Its a BNR32, I ordered a set of Defi's but I won't receive them for another few weeks. So I would like to have my stock gauge work and with a new sender I expected it to allow it to read properly. Is there anyway to test the gauge by passing a current though it? Thanks Mitch

Sorry to steal the thread (this may still help you). When I switched my transmission oil I had fluid come out of the breather at the top of the transmission, well I think its breathers, they are u-shaped and at the top of the transmission near where it connects to the engine. I filled the transmission though the filler hole underneath the car (not the shifter) and it still came out. It never really leaked too much on the ground as most of it just went all over the transmission. I have seen some gtr transmissions with hoses coming out of the u-shaped piece (90% sure they are breathers), so in that case the fluid would end up on the floor instead of the transmission. I also had a messed up shift boot which caused some fluid to leak. There is two shift boots, well actually 3, but two rubber ones. You first take off the shift knob in the car, then the leather shift boot, then you'll see a rubber boot with 4 screws, take that off, then you'll see another shift boot, that one tends to crack (from what I'm told). You can get it at any nissan dealer and its pretty cheap. If not PM me I have an extra.

This also started to happen to me after I changed my subframe bushings and diff bushings to aluminum. Maybe one of your bushings is completely finished.

Hello, I recently took off my BOV, there was rust on the flanges so I rewelded them and painted them. The BOV are AP BOV that look like HKS SSQV. I decided to test them but I don't think my method works, basically I blew in the BOV's inlet to see if they leaked. One of them seems to have a very slight leak if I blew hard. Now I'm wondering if when the BOV's are in the car if the vaccum line helps to fully shut the BOVs. How should I properly test the BOV's? Is it normal to have a very very small small leak when you blow in the inlet of the BOV? Thanks in advance Mitchell

I launched my car today at around 3000RPM in the rain and the hicas light flickered for a second, until the car got grip. I wanted to know if this has happened to anyone else.

I tested it tonight by probing (with a sewing needle) into the TPS's harness. I tapped into the middle wire and grounded onto the battery and got a voltage of 0.52V, the manual says approx 0.5V so I should be good. The 4wd light didn't come on when I drove the car (only drove it 2 minutes). My plan is tomorrow when driving it if the light come on to probe the TPS again and the Attessa-Ets unit in the boot and see if I get the correct voltage. Then I can rule out the TPS sensor and then either my harness is bad or Attessa or the ECCS have gone bad. In the manual it says the Attessa-ETS is supposed to have 0.4V at idle and the ECCS is supposed to have 0.375V. So I'll tests those.

Hello, I had my idle valve gasket replaced and the idle reset by a mechanic to get rid of the high idle on my R32 GTR. Now my 4wd is lighting up on the dash and I'm getting a code 21 on the Attessa, which is a TPS error. I haven't checked the voltage (simply I'm not sure the correct way to check it, I'll probably just disconnect the harness to the Attessa Unit in the boot and check the car with the engine off but ignition on). Today I tried to run the car with my foot resting on the throttle (lightly), hench making the voltage on the TPS higher and my 4wd light never came on and the 4wd was working perfectly. So I'm almost 100% certain the TPS voltage is low. Now my new problem is that I'm unsure how to adjust it to be at the right voltage. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks Mitch

I'm having the same issue on my 32GTR, have you figured your issue out yet?