nizmonut

one thing that all rb motors are going to need at one stage or another is a overhauled ignition system, wheather you go for replacement direct fire, or go for a wasted spark system, this is just as good as putting a free flow exhaust manifold. you notice the difference. you'll have money left over to buy a programable rom for your ecu.

between installing a hks oil pump and having the block arteries bored out the factory pressure gauge was pretty much useless before let alone after get a aftermarket one and T piece the oil pressure seder unit and hook it in there. even if the gauge lives in the engine bay somewhere atleast you have a accurate measurement.

lol, that's a no no here, do that and you can kiss your warrant of fitness good bye. even tho its only spot welded in a few places and bonded it is still classes as part of a monoqoc chassis and is deemed structual damage. if it was a bolt in assembly, fine, so i dont recommend it for all you new zealand gtr/skyline owners.

got it sussed out, talked to the local auto sparky about it and he gave me a diode to solder in between what would have been number one trigger wire and number six trigger wire. so the sensor wire that ran from number one coil on the original setup to the ecu is still connected with it s number one cylinder trigger wire, but before it joins the number six trigger wire on there way to the shared coil the diode has been installed to stop the pulse from number six from upsetting the signal....to the ecu...... ya'll understand that Number one trigger wire from igniter>>>>>sensor wire joins>>>>>>diode installed here>>>>>Number six trigger wire joins from igniter>>>>>>>both join coil thats the best i can explain it with out pulling the online colins world dictionary.

the engine trying to draw through a 4g wire has overloaded the main fusable link. this is not a fuse as such, or a relay, it is a thin copper plate that the battery cable bolts to before anything else is connected to it. check there first, if not get a circut tester and unplug the ignition tumbler plug and check for current there. if no luck i'd suggest you ring your local auto electrician and tell him what cable you used where they should be able to fix the rest.

helilujah. its a new coil pack and leads that would normally go on a 3.8 litre vt holden vommodore. the question is how do i get it firing from trailing edge? oh its running my old hks f con pro, r32 igniter gtr 6 speed box, gtr intake 90 ml throttle body , custom exhaust manifold garrett 35/40 teal 40ml waste gate hks step 2 cams bocsh 740cc injectors, in a 92 gts4 shell. just stuff i had lay'n around after i bought my god

that depends on what your silvia is running, sr20det from factory?

i'd have to agree on both, especialy running a 30 block im running twin garretts 35/40 one hiflowed the other standard, and bosh 740cc injectors on a low impedance. rb30/26dett head.

i undid the three bolts and turned the it around till the light it the marks and it runs fine as revs fine as. only problem is its that far around ya cant bolt it back on. double reading is correct how ever nethier 1 or six, or any of the light pulses land where the should when the should. when the CAS is bolted in place. it would read like it was running twelve cylinders, each cylinder fires twice per revolution rather than the direct fires one. had some success. pulled out the spark plugs and gapped them to .8 of a mill. brought the timing back a bit but still not enough.

yeah i realize that, and no it hasn't spun the mechanical timing is fine. its just the electronic side of it.

ok so i finally got sick of the skyline coils and set up a wasted spark conversion using the 3.8 buick coil pack(new) and bocsh ignition leads(new) on my recently rebuilt Rb30det GTs4. one advantage to this is now i can use a timing light to check the timing. the disadvantage now is that when i have the timing light on the number one is firing about 10 millimeters past the last mark on the harmonic balancer. or around 32-35 degrees past where it should be... ive tried resetting the ecu, tinkering with the cas(but it limited to how far it can turn). i even took the cam belt of and advanced the exhaust cam by three teeth to compensate for the retarded timing but to no avail. it still runs like dogs balls. any help would be apprieciated, i'd hate to think i have to go back to the individual direct fire set up...

hehe, grab the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurelor R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck hieght on the block the engine mounts are shorter, the Rb30 was a australian only model in the r30, r 31 skylines and the last of nissan's 3l stocks were sold to GMH to power the 1987 holden commodore as this was a cheaper option then trying to engineer a new motor to come in under australia's exhaust emmisions laws as the 202 would never pass. the patrol runs a live front axle this block could be used aswell as that from a vl or early skyline 3l gxe nissan station wagon for example. the only major difference between the blocks of that era are the deck hieght and stroke, i used the rb30 block and crankshaft from a vl, to replace the *$&%ed 26 block from my gtr had the block honed and faces machined, the crank machined and balanced, oversized bearings, new rods and pistons. everything pretty much was a straight swap, the sump, pick up , etcetc,.... ran fine still does now, however i had the problem of shutting the bonnet too. it was an old retired mechanic who told me what engine mounts to try. i would have never have known other wise and probably would have had to get a custom bonnet made.