nizmonut

yes they all serve the same purpose as far as i know, there are some that are different but can be easily modified by swapping the key ways etc, if you are in the market for a new cas ensure you get one with the rubber gromet on the front and center as these models can be repaired, they are also mitzubishi items.

heyhey we're in the same boat on that one. lol.

undo the gear shift surround' you will see a cable linkage that goes from the gear shift up to the back of the ignition tumbler, it has obviously stretch or being damaged at some stage, look and study the mechanisim see which way it has to move when being in park then give it an extra pull and you should hear the ignition click once the key is out undo the lower steering column cover and remove the cable all together and that way you should be able to remove the key anytime once it is in the off positon....most auto trans have an inhibitor switch that will prevent them from being started unless they are in neutral or park. it is designed to stop car thieves and hijackers ripping the keys out of the ignition when at lights etc etc.

see thats not a hijack, what you have stated there just tells everyone here you havent got the brains, wit, good looks, or d*ck to do the job....the flash cars should be a bonus....for her anyway. if it was anything like the first date i went on with my current g/f it was the holden rodeo 3 litre turbo diesil with all my tools in the back, paperwork all over the back seat and my german shepard gaurding the front seats.

heya josh, do a search on google for a pdf file for the R32 technicians service manual as it has all the wiring diagrams on it. how ever the plugs for all the gearbox loom blugs in by the fuse box, theres a reddy brown coloured plug that was used for the auto box, it should be there.

due to my dubious driving record at the time this took place i was suspended from driving so took this opportunity to get absoulutley drunk at any good opportunity that presented itself...also it didnt help my car was well known by the local constable. for said record leaving the pub one night me and the g/f walked accross the street to the gtr, get in, reverse out of the park and drive down the street, upon witnessing us leaving the bar and procceding to drive home a highway patrolman procceds to pull us up , steps out of his vehical with breath tester in hand and approaches my car. upon seeing it was my dads mate wayne i prompted Ally to "give em sum sh*t"..... Ally wound the window down and greeted the officer, to which the officer replied "have you been drinking tonight" Ally answered with a profound "yes". to which the officer asks "how many have you had to drink tonight" to which she casually replied "7 or 8 glasses" the officer procceded to carry out the breath test....upon the test reading clear the officer questioned Ally with "i thought you said you had been drinking?" Ally replied " i have....orange juice!!!" to which the officer said" F*ck off home smart ass. i'd just like to thank constable wayne jones and my girlfriend for the entertainment.

the minimum requirement for the stil vodka drift series as a entry level competiton, rollcage, fire extginguisher and a fia approved harness and helmet and fireproof suit, other wise you car could be stock standard for all they care aslong as the saftey requirments are met............as the D1NZ is too comercialised and you need a good 60 to 100 grand just to do one full year, also the cars are road legal warrant and rego. you'll need a rollcage anyway so it sort makes it irralavent weather your chassis got flex or not. wow 12 g for a laurel. last one i picked up was rb20det manual with lsd for 4 g with fresh gloss black paint. but thats what happens when your govenment lets the country get flooded with grey imports, the prices fall through the floor and you can see a potential drag,race,sprint,rally car parked on every studentflat's front lawn. so much was the demand for go fast cars there are more grey import nissan skylines here then holden commodores

9 vl commodores, a vt commodore, 4 skylines, a mitzi pajero, nissan primera TE 4wd turbo, mitzi zr4, ford telstar with a cossie motor in it, but best of all was my first vehcial, a 1985 single cab well side toyota hilux in red with a ford nine inch in the rear, custom driveshaft, 5 speed box, rb30 block, rb25de head with a great dirty tractor turbo bolted to it.

there are some advantages to letting your girlfriend/partner/wife drive ya skyline...for example she has a better driving record than me, 2, she can do a lap of manfield and pukekohe racetracks with half a second of me, her insurance is cheaper than mine and can do a qauter mile that would rival most guys i know.......plus i need some one to race the gts4 cause there arent many cars in my area that are competitive.... but best of all she can make my mates still reach for the holy shit handle all whilst doing the grocery shopping

the sensors for the abs are a bolt on affiar, just keep your original driveshafts as these have the ring gear on them for the sensors to use,

or you could just use a half inch socket set extention.

im running 881hp on a hks twin, triple is a bit over the top for 450 kw. and damned expensive....put it this way, would you rather have a slightly weaker clutch that you'd have to replace or have the triple and have to replace the input shaft?

could possibly be a maxima pump, looks similar.

rb20e, et, det rb25e,de,det, rb26de,dett rb30e ,et,de, laurel, cefiro, patrol, r31,32,33,34, vg25,35's nissan maxima, 300zx some sr20 motors, hitachi or mitzubishi, denso, they all bolt on.

a good turbo for this replacement with less lag is a caterpillar 938F turbo. spools wickedley when bolted to a rb.

here some wierd and wonderful examples of engine swaps for ya ATV motor bike powered by an sti motor road trike with a porsche 911 motor powering it 1985 toyota hiux 2.4 desiel powered by a rb30det 1990 mr2 powered by a supercharged 2uz v8 motor 1993 toyota trueno/leven(AE111) converted into a rwd running a 2jzgte and six speed manual. p10 4wd nissan primera running a rb20det gts4 driveline. nissan laurel powered by a 450 big block with twin four barrell holley carbs 1994 5 door mitzi pajero with a 3litre twin turbo GTO or (3000gt as badged in aussie) engine in it. and a v10 dodge viper engine crammed into a 1967 fibreglass replica of a shelby mustang.

the only way to know is to get the block and head xrayed. how ever in saying that, most head gaskets will still leak a little after the rebuild untill it settel in, as rebuilder after a rebuild you'd run a monograde 30 oil and straight water in the cooling system as the antifreeze will eat at the gasket untill it is sealed properly, also vasaline on oil pump so it isnt damaged on its first start up and high qaulity lithium grease on all the bearings during the build as this will protect them long enough untill the oil reaches them, run the engine for its first hundred kms, never let it idle for more than a few seconds as it will start glazing the bores, after 100k's dump the oil and water you'll see all the vasalene, gasket goo, and grease come out as it will float in the oil in the drain pan. replace with a high grade thin oil that will flow easily when the engine is cold, you can now let it idle, after 500 kms give a resonable thrash but dont red line it, then 1000 its all yours, i have used this proccess on 23 engines now and only one has failed due to a snapped camshaft which we would have never had know unless it was exrayed for hairline fractures.

yup, the only one you can do that to is the rb25de/tvvl as the valves only interfere when the lifters are fully open at full oil pressure.

how many guys and girls here have owned both a gtst and a gtr??? and how many of you have had the oportunity to race both on similar terms? as for my self i have owned 2 gtsts, 2 gtr,s and a gts4, the first skyline was a converted rb20de 4 door, it for me was mearley a play thing to go and do skids and the occasional street light gran prix, the second was a factory gtst with a auto behind it as my partner couldnt drive stick. i sold my first skyline and bought a R33 gtr which lasted all of three weeks before some asshole ran a red light and left me with a written off skyline, and a smashed thigh and hip, with that money i bought a R32 gtr and had it converted to auto while my leg healed from the accident as i couldnt depress the clutch pedal., after a few weeks of owning it i realised that the car was more of a collectors item to me then a toy so we went in search of a trade for my partners gtst and found a 93 factory turbo 25det auto gts4, the manual box from the gtr went into this and a second hand (albiet with a cracked bell housing and flock tail shaft bearing) dog box i purchased for a rather extensive sum of hard earned cash, had it repaired and now resides in the gtr. the gts4 had issues in the form of the motor being generally abused and tired so it was biffed in the bin for a rebuilt rb30 block and gtr head setup, along with the usual front mount, oil cooler, etc etc. all while this happened weekends spent at the drag strip and the race track, the gts4 proved itself to be a worthy apponent if not an equal to the gtr, and it wasnt even tuned it was a home gararge bolt together from the spare parts bin. this is why i chose to keep modifiying the gts4 as now it has a output 3 times that of the gtr and handles just aswell. but im not saying the gtr wouldnt have the same qaulities if it had the same work done to it, the gts4 was built with fun in mind it has close to the same wieght and drivline as it's big brother with two extra doors and more extensive work done to the driveline how ever it still runs 225 50 R16's all around and is road registered and only failed its warrant of fitness on two bald tyres and a inner cv boot. with the set back's and finacial burden that comes with outright performance,and all this before my 25th birthday, i frown on all you magazine mechanic's and judgemental sons of bitches out there i suggest you put up or shut up, there are people here who have worked damned hard for what they have and all you can do is point and laugh. as for the question posed, there are equal benefits as well as down sides to owning either a gtr or a gtst. and untill you've had both you wont really know. for out right power and performance yes a gtr, but you'd better have even deeper pockets than if you are to buy a gtst, as above with a simple rb30 conversion, ecu, and its goings on for 10 grand id rather have a 300 rw kw gtst than a 280kw gtr thats gonna cost three times that to get anywhere near where my gts4 is now.

my first gtst had a cut and shut manifold, it was rb20de runners with the flanges cut off the 26 manifold and welded, the throttle body was then welded to the front, it is a tight fit but can be done, just have a bit of a nasty bend just before entering the throttle body, we cured this by sqaushing the pipe into an oval and then run it under the head light and down the front to the intercooler. the 25's and 20 greddy do fit each other, the 25 det manifolds were changed so the water coolant exited via the front where the temp sensors are, where as on the earlier rb manifolds it had three seperate pipes that ran under the manifold the joined at the front before entering the radiator. the flanges that bolt to the head are cose enough to not be of significant concern but can be matched if you can be bothered.

ahh its all good, a off duty copper on his way home from the station got done 52 kms over the speed limit in his wrx while crossing the harbour bridge......he's on foot patrol for the next six months. and i agree with scathing, in a momment of rare misjudgement on my part i was being pursued by a highway patrolman in his vz v8 holden commodore whilst driving/"hooning" my nissan along the desert road in the central north island of new zealand, knowing that cop had a shit shows chance of catching the rb30det i smiled and chopped into 3rd and not so gently watch the speedo climb to the stratosphere with said officer in pursuit, upon reaching gas station 45 kms distant he pulled in behind me and asked me on no uncertain terms what the f*ck was that, i replied entrapment at which he new instantly he had broken even the pursuit rules laid down by the new zealand police commision (said law was under no circumstanses are police to pursue vehcial once 180kph is breached), he couldnt do anything but give me a stern warning and followed me rather closley for the next 20 kms untill he turned back.

hmm where to start....a gtst or its cousins the cefiro or laurel is preffered, how ever it can be done with a R32 gts4 and gtr's by pulling the 4wd fuse and installing a switch for when you decide to play in the sandpit."thats what i did" jenny craig, the maximum you should have in the car is a seat,seat belt, three pedals, a handbrake and half a dashboard...along with the sterring wheel and column then its the forum,s no use buy bling bling rims as they wont take long to get so dirty and scratched you'd think you bought them from the scrap yard anyway, 16 or 17 inch should do for starters. even sets of two's as you'll note when you watch the drifting the back and fronts are missmatched anyway. followed by the shoe shop, ya dont need new ones, just good condition second hand ones and a few nearly bald ones for practicing on, then next its off to the cogswapper shop for an overhaul you can drift an auto"i do due to a knee injury" how ever a manual is preffered, stock boxes dont last long being quick shifted as it is hard on the sincro's i had a box last only the first corner 1st 2nd then nothing stripped third. then its time to stiffin the b*tch up, get here resting nice n snug on the road, you dont need anything flash to start with, just some king springs and a GOOD set of shocks for those ripple strips the ass end is going to be driving most of the day and followed by good bushes, whitle line nolethene etc etc, if you feel the car's factory lsd is worn to the point it wont work effectivley anymore now is the time to get a new one as it will be needed anyway, usually overhauled every 8 to 12 months or between seasons. good front brakes, when using the feint method of drifting have the brake bias toward the front as when applying the brake is will shift the wieght forward onto the front wheels making it easier tobrake traction on the rear, leave the rears standard just good pads and fluid there as the hand brake will do most of the work on the back brakes you'll need a good catch can with two inlets and a breather aswell as a drain back fitting to the sump as the track marshalls will probably require you to have one, must hold atleast a litre but most guys go for ones that can hold half the crank case volume. that will get you started, you dont need massive horse power to drift, just need to learn how to use the vehical enursia to shift it side ways, feinting is the term used pull left then back right for example, when the weight of the vehical is back on the right side pull the hand brake to break the rear wheels from traction and dump the clutch stomping the accelerator and it will power steer out, correct the front wheel direction and let her slide, the other way is to over power, this form requires torque from the engine come into the corner wide, change down dumping the clutch as above and the rear will slide out. the other form is rather technical it requires no braking what so ever, go into the corner at speed letting the vehicals sideways enersia taking the rear out ,control the slide with the accelerator, the more gas you give it the further sideways the vehical will want to travel. as it does this the vehical will want to slow, this is how rally drivers take corners on gravel, so hp and torque are essential to overcome the high grip levels of tarseal. then a hydralic hand brake as the stock one you got there wont last a day of continual stretching, ensure it has no ratchet just a pull lever. good luck.

as bubba said, that 5% is bugger all when the rears arnt breaking traction, so id say the only advantage the gtst would have over the gtr is the fact it isnt carrying a front diff, center diff and its associated driveline components, however in saying that the gtr has the advantage of extra capacity, and more advanced engine work over the gtst, i would say better tuned ecu but for penny's these days you can have that changed in hours.

blah blah blah.. sheesh, you wanna go drifting in a gtr pull the damn fuse. sheesh. same goes for a gts4, get one of those and a rb30 block for your 25 head you are on your way to caining the arse off alot of gtrs.

...suspect the engine maybe from stagea?