dark.sky

Okay so I drove the car tonight, gave it a hell of a beating (I live in the country) and it didnt flash on, even once, never lone staying on permanently. Weird. First time it hasnt been on in days...

What car were you driving? BTW that Chaser is up for sale. $15k as is.

Just thought I would let you know how this panned out, looks like my AFM was stuffed, and causing it to do silly things. It has now passed emissions, using the original cat convertor.

I just used the same aircon belt that was on my RB20 with the new RB25 in the R32. The power steering belt however is different, the RB25 harmonic balancer has 1 less spline than the RB20 balancer.

Hey guys, my R32 has had an R33 RB25DET in it for about 4 months, and everything has been great. However, whilst driving last week, the low oil light suddenly came on. Naturally I checked the oil level straight away, and it was fine. When I first noticed it, the oil pressure gauge was reading where it always would too. When you first start the car, it’s off, but give it 5 minutes and it comes on - and from there won’t go off. My mechanic removed the sensor and cleaned it, but this did not fix it - they were flat out, squeezed me in to replace the rear HICAS arms, but you get the idea. Below is a picture of the gauge, with precisely what happens. The oil pressure gauge appears to work fine still - it moves between about 3.5 and 5kg depending on the way it’s driven. Now what I can't for the life of me remember, is if there is just the oil pressure sender, or an oil pressure sender, AND an oil pressure switch. If it’s the latter, I guess I should replace that switch, but if there is only one, could it be a cluster issue perhaps? Some people would say just leave it, but I’m not keen on getting accustomed with warning lights on my dash, because I may miss one which shouldn’t be ignored. I am planning on running an aftermarket gauge, but I'd rather fix these issues as they come. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Spotted a Bayside Blue R34 GTR with QLD plates on Redbanks Road between Gawler and Mallala today about 6:30pm. Porn.

Got roped into work today, finish at 6pm so I'll be there around 6:30.

Looking to borrow a stock R32 (Must be a 92-93 model) steering wheel - can be GTS or GTR, for 2 weeks max.

Yeah.

Yeah that's similar to what I'm going to have to do. I've traced it now and know the exact source, and ive temporarily fixed it, but I'll be handing the keys over to an auto electrician sometime in the future.

Spotted a white R34 and Vu's old R33 (Sorry can't remember your username) at Tyrepower Parafield this morning.

Spotted a Silver R33 GTR flexing it down main north by alltype this morning. Sounding porn.

Got an R33 RB25DET speedo sender here somewhere. $25.

Was it pearl white? His plate is GTR R32. If so, it's not a 2.6L

Spotted a grey Stagea at BP Port Wakefield today. Also, why the f**k do people cut laps? I was in town for NYE and the amount of cars driving around was rediculous. Chill the f**k out and have a drink, you might actually enjoy yourself.

Sure was lol Your car is tough as balls in person.

Dunno. Was a bit too paro to read anything.

Yeah it does click when you plug/unplug it. Regardless of IGN position. I'll flick you a PM aswell.

Ok. The following sequence of photos is related only to the removal and replacement of the relay pictured below, no other fuses or relays were touched. Tested 4 things, Coilpacks, CAS, TPS, OXY SENSOR. - Relay was IN Coilpacks and TPS function correctly - voltage when IGN ON, no voltage when IGN OFF. CAS and OXY SENSOR did return voltage when off, details below. CAS: IGN OFF, Relay IN IGN OFF, Relay OUT IGN ON, Relay IN IGN ON, Relay OUT OXY SENSOR: - This was done on 1 of the 3 wires, but they all read the same +/-0.01V IGN OFF, Relay IN IGN OFF, Relay OUT IGN ON, Relay IN IGN ON, Relay OUT Weird Much?

When the car is off voltage at the pump is 0. When the ignition is either on, or the car idling, Ive gotten all sorts of voltages out of it (5V-12V - 13V if I use the chassis as earth instead of the earth wire and car is running), but one thing remains consistant, key off - no voltage, key on - voltage. Removing the IGN SW fuse cuts the pump, but removing the blue relay does nothing to the voltage at all. EDIT: If I remove the other blue relay as well, car will not start. Fuel pump still goes but there is no ignition - so that one is obviously for the ECU.

Okay, done some more playing around, so I have some new info. With the IGN SW fuse missing, the car sat for 3 days, with the alarm active, and when I went out there to start it (after the fuse was back in of course) it started without any hesitation at all. So that backs up what the multimeter was telling me. I have some pictures, since they tell 1000 words. Everything switched off, all fuses in. Everything switched off, IGN SW fuse removed. Everything switched off, IGN SW fuse back in, but the blue relay in the picture below disconnected. I understand that relay to be for the EFI, but the car seems perfectly fine without it connected (I road tested it also). Voltage at the terminals, 850rpm, everything off. Voltage at the terminals, 850rpm, headlights on. Voltage at the terminals, 2000rpm, everything off. So I guess the question is, do I simply leave the blue relay unplugged? Nothing seems to have changed with it unplugged (all accessories work, and drives fine) except for the fact the current draw is now at an acceptable level. Thoughts anyone?

Spotted a white R33 in town doing laps ALL NIGHT. I saw it when I got to town, and heaps of times throughout the night. Playing with fire a bit.

Yeah hey, I should just end my life now. Or buy another 2.

Apparantly all the people who are viewing this thread and not posting

Just bought 2.