JimX

I hope I saved some sexay blonde chickas instead of a family of boguns

My only speeding ticket was from a car-mounted camera, taken at night, from the front, with a bright flash. In early-ish 1999, in Sydney. I was going 72 in a 60 zone in the middle of the night with no other cars around on a wide and brightly lit road. I wonder how many lives were saved by that ticket I got

Get a good metallised scratch-resistant tint and it will take a long time for the lines to come back. You might still have to replace the tint after awhile, but one window probably only costs $50 to re-do.

Steve, I don't doubt your words because of who you work for but how exactly do drilled rotors pull you up quicker? I just can't imagine the physics.

Engine oil: Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60 Transmission oil: Redline Heavyweight Shockproof Diff oil: No idea It was just heavy duty stuff designed for limited slip diffs I bought from Auto 1, cost about $20. Since the diff doesn't have synchros to crunch I thought there was much less of a reason to put expensive oil in there. But I guess I will bite the bullet and get some Redline oil for the diff if I manage to blow it. So far so good

Transmission oil is a bitch of a job to do at home. You certainly can do it and I have done it myself on other cars, but personally I'd rather pay a mechanic to do it. They will put it up on a hoist and use a hand pump to pump the fluid in and it's all very easy and quick. Compare this to what you'd have to do at home especially if you don't have a pump and you can see why I don't mind paying a few bucks to have it done cleaner and quicker. I paid Midas $60 to change my transmission, diff, and clutch fluids, with them supplying the clutch fluid and me supplying the rest. In and out in under half an hour (only maybe 15 minutes actually spent on the car), which would have been a half-day job for me at home

If drilled don't dissipate any extra heat then I'd say there's no point in getting them if you're concerned with stopping power. The primary way to prevent brake fade is to dissipate more heat so if the brakes aren't improving on that then you can't improve on brake fade. The surface of the disc in and of itself does not really improve the braking effect directly. For normal stopping a drilled or slotted rotor isn't going to pull you up any quicker than a normal disc, they'll just give you added benefits like wiping the brake dust off the rotor and getting rid of a little extra heat (though I thought slotted was better at this than drilled). This is why I think I'd prefer an unslotted/undrilled kangaroo paw disc over a slotted regular ventillated disc, because I believe the kangaroo paw design removes more heat than surface slots. But I'll have to think about the other things like removing of brake dust with the slots and hopefully there will be the option of slotted kangaroo paw for the best of both worlds.

Benm, the oil I'm running atm is Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60. The oil I had previous to this was Castrol Formula R Synthetic 5W-30. Duncan, do you run Motul full or semi synth? I use semi in my motorcycle because full synth is supposedly not good for the wet clutch, and it costs about $40 for 4 litres. The full synth was about $100 :eek: Just wondering if the price was around the same for the car grade oils. The bike only takes 3 litres so I always have 1 litre left over after every oil change (doesn't use a single drop between changes)

I've used Castrol synthetic oil for my last 2 oil changes. I can't remember the names/grades, but it was from Auto 1 and they had 2 types. I got the cheap stuff the first time ($50) and the expensive stuff the second tmie ($70). I think I'll continue to run with the latter for all future oil changes. I've still got the bottles at home, I can go look it up if you're that interested. Otherwise just ring up Auto 1 and ask them about their synthetic oil. They also sell Mobil 1 which I think was $60.

33Spec2, couldn't have said it better myself! Nothing wrong with 180SX or 200SX (I considered getting both of these too), but the Skyline's just got more class I reckon. All of my girlfriend's friends think my R33's got more class than 180SX's and 200SX's. It is a bit of an ego boost, though they do put me in my place when they see a Ferrari If I wanted a faster car for less money, I would have gotten a modified VL turbo.

I don't know much about tranny oil, except that Lightweight Shockproof is good for new gearboxes and Heavyweight is good for worn ones, or ones used for racing. If it's only a bit clunky and not crunching, I would go the Lightweight.

I think someone mentioned in another thread that it's about a 10kw increase and the turbo kicks in about 200rpm earlier, both of which are good enough reasons to get them IMO. What I mainly want to know though is how hard would it be to do myself? Is it simply a case of removing the timing belt and associated covers etc then bolting on the new gears, then replacing everything? How do you set them up exactly? (like which holes go where)

Shouldn't you really be comparing the S15 with the R34? Keeping in mind price and age differences.

EVL R33, who's the JUN supplier? Seems like the go at this stage.

JUN is ok if they're only around $310, I was thinking HKS only because they're the only ones I've heard about.

I'm thinking of getting HKS adjustable cam gears, but I have a few questions. What's the best price I can get them for? (Sydney) Perfect Run have them for $255 each which seems like a reasonable price. How hard are they to install/adjust yourself? How do you actually adjust them? How will they affect my power and running of the engine?

Yeah I'm still interested in figuring out the flywheel torque too Out of interest what mods have you got and what boost are you running? My intercooler plumbing is killing my power, I'm going to get that sorted early next year. Every mechanic that sees the way the pipes are hooked up with right-angle bends gives me a worse reaction and a bigger speech on how crap it is. Mark's was the worst

I saw a black R33 with its boot badge missing on the way home from work today. Brought a tear to my eye

MFX_R33, the 4WD system of the GTR doesn't kick in until the rear loses traction, so the only disadvantage it should have is the extra weight.

How much does it cost to get your air con vents cleaned and disinfected? Is it effective or a waste of money? I've still got a slight stale cigarette smell left over from the previous owner that I want to get rid of. I'm just glad it's not also in the upholstery

MT90 is kind of a grade below Lightweight. I say "kind of" because none are really worse than the other, they're just used for different purposes. I'm running Heavyweight in my gearbox because I had a moderate case of the crunchies. Nissanpower, as for helping preserve your clutch, probably the best thing you can do that doesn't adversely affect your performance is to heel-and-toe your downshifts. Depending on your driving style this may be the most wear and tear you can save on your clutch. On top of that it's also a lot of fun (esp around corners), and your passengers will be impressed if they know anything about driving

Fmic, T04 turbo, EBC, cold air box with pod, 3.5" exhaust from front pipe back. The dump pipe is the next thing on the list to do, was going to do it in a couple of weeks but can't afford it till next year now

An S-AFC would definitely smooth it out, however the Power FC is still preferable if you have the money. But if you're a poor bastard like me, an S-AFC is good enough to tide you over until you can afford the Power FC. Here's a printout of my dyno run before and after the S-AFC tune. I had a similar flat spot at around 4000-6000rpm and it's now gone.

You know, I think you're right But only after the engine warmed up the next day. Lucky I'm pretty good at catching it before it stalls.

Mark from Hills Motorsport forgot to fully set my S-AFC to counter the stalling effect of my bov, so I had a play around with it myself. He had set the Ne1 and Ne2 both to 10%, but forgot the Thr setting, which meant that it doesn't do anything at all. So according to the manual I set the Thr to below the Ne1 and Ne2 settings. I tried 5% first, which seemed like a good figure to start on, but it didn't seem to do very much. I then tried setting it to 8%, and increased the Ne2 setting to 12% just because I figured there were 2 settings there for a reason, and this has definitely made an improvement. The idle now stays above 500rpm when I take my foot off the accelerator, and so far I haven't stalled it or even almost stalled. However, since I don't really know what I'm doing, I don't know if these are the optimal values. What should I have them set to, and what are the consequences of setting them too high?