JimX

Based on the amount of sightings the car had over the past couple of weeks I'm pretty sure they were driving it around.

Here's $5. Go buy yourself a clue.

I've got new radius rod bushes, via whiteline's suspension kit. The problem was pretty much the same before and after. I did an alignment afterwards. Like with JaseR33, the wobble stops above a certain speed. Seems to only be one "spot" where it happens. Except on my Torana, where it just got worse and worse as the speed went up

None at any lower speed, and no vibration really other than through the steering wheel. Passengers can't feel it, including me testing it as a passenger when my gf was driving on the freeway.

It's both. The noise from your turbo tends to come out the pod. Think of a trumpet. The noise is really coming from your mouth, but you hear it at the other end. The reason why many people think it's the pod making the noise is again similar to the trumpet analogy. A standard airbox does a good job of muffling the sound, but the pod is more like a trumpet and tends to amplify it (or at least not quieten it down). This has been discussed many times here, people should learn to search.

I've had this problem on virtually every car I've ever owned and never really gotten to the source of it. I've improved it significantly on 1 car (Commodore) by replacing the rims with new ones, but it was still never perfect. The problem is that at a certain speed (130kph or so on my current car) the steering wobbles slightly when travelling in a straight line. I had new tyres put on about 10000km ago, but surely they don't need rebalancing this often? I would think that if it was wheel balance it would wobble at any speed, not just 130+. I also had the wheels aligned at the same time so I don't think it's alignment either. My tyre wear is fine so I don't think I could get the alignment any better if I tried. It could still be wheel balance or alignment though, I'm not sure. Other possibilities I thought of include warped rim/rims, worn steering rack, or worn wheel bearings. The gearstick doesn't wobble at all so I've pretty much ruled out an unbalanced tail shaft. I'm looking at replacing my tyres with better ones within a few months, I'm thinking that at that time I will also send the rims off for a repair/balance in case they need it, and also replace the bearings even though there is no free play at all. Anyone have any other ideas of what it might be?

Why do you think higher oil pressure is better? I used Castrol synthetic for around a year (5000km drain interval) and it ended up blocking a lifter. Look up the comparisons of synthetic oils, the wear properties of Castrol is average at best. You can buy better for the same money (Motul, Mobil, Fuchs, etc).

Well why would mine idle fine with a 0.8 gap? And lots of other people's that also have 0.8. Just because it runs fine above idle doesn't mean the injectors are 100% clear. If you cbf'd cleaning them that's your prerogative, I was just giving you suggestions.

Good stuff. Rough idle could also be slightly blocked injectors, when was the last time you had them cleaned?

Yeah I'm not sure why you want to go all the expense of adding a surge tank, then running 2 cheapass old GTS-t pumps off it. You're also halving the life of your fuel system by using 2 pumps. You'll probably find that a brand new Bosch pump probably costs around the same as 2xGTS-t pumps anyway. Assuming you need to buy 2 and use your original one to fill the surge tank.

I guess if anyone is going to say that Sydneykid is wrong, it would have to be someone without a fundamental grasp of physics, or of the basics of how a car works.

I have a .60 AR T3/04E and according to the previous owner flows 450hp. I got 215rwkw from a S-AFC tune at 14.5psi. I highly doubt a smaller T04E could get up to 300rwkw on a smaller engine.

They already have cats on some bikes, mostly on late model Hondas. eg, Gold Wing, VFR800. But no vehicle that didn't come with a cat from the factory has thus far been required to have one retrofitted at a later date in Australia. New motorcycles in California are required to have cats fitted, and I'm sure eventually most of the rest of the world will follow suit including Australia. But for now it's not required in Australia, although I'm sure it is illegal to remove a cat from a bike which had one fitted at the factory. The cats are very small and fit easily on a bike designed for it. But there's no way it would fit on mine. One of my pipes underneath where a cat would go is actually slightly flattened to fit. So the cat would have to be smaller than a flattened section of pipe on my bike. No chance anyone's going to make me put one on my bike, because it will not physically fit.

I didn't say the Autronic wasn't a better ECU. I was looking at his mods which are very mild, and wondering why he thinks an ECU geared up for racing cars would be "nicer". I'm not sure, but doesn't it ditch your climate control along with many other aftermarket ECUs such as Motec? This could have been something they've fixed, but I seem to remember way in the past reading that it didn't support the Skyline's climate control. For a mild car, all I can see in an Autronic would be a higher initial purchase cost, higher tuning costs, a limited number of tuners that could do it, and potentially no more climate control. "Better" argument aside, I still can't see how it is "nicer".

I still don't get it.

My motorcycle was made in 2000 and doesn't legally need a cat, and it is far less fuel efficient than the Skyline. It has a 1 litre engine, which is less than half the capacity of the Skyline's engine even before you add the turbo, and weighs around 1/7th as much as the Skyline. But even with all these size advantages, it uses almost spot on half as much fuel as the Skyline. You'd think it'd use around 1/4 the fuel. I don't know why a cat isn't required, because I feel sorry for anyone caught behind me at the traffic lights, inhaling the toxic exhaust fumes from the non-catalysed exhaust. Laws are funny things.

Firstly, the price of petrol is governed by the world economy, not the local. You'll find that since petrol recently went up by 20% here, it's gone up roughly 20% all over the world. Secondly, the fact that it's gone up by 20% is a crock. Oil recently went up to US$42 a barrel from $40. If they passed on this $2 price hike entirely to the end user of petrol, it should have gone up less than A2c a litre, not 10c+. So most of the price hike is due to nothing other than greed by the oil companies. This is why on cheap petrol days you will see it dip below $1/litre again. They are still making a bigger profit on those days now than they were on the expensive days of a few months ago. Anyway, my points are you can't control the price of petrol with chain letters, and the price of petrol will come back down again as soon as media attention is off it (ie, the Saudis stop f**king around with oil prices)

Is this the Ebay turbo?

I was under the impression that the GTS4 had the exact same box as a GTR. Can someone tell me how they know it's weaker?

I would guess 200rwkw, low to mid 6s 0-100, 13s quarters. Out of interest, why do you think Autronic would be nicer?

The old Buick V6 isn't as bad as everyone thinks. You guys should look up the old 80's Buick Grand National. The main problem is they are pretty ugly There was a guy on the OCAU forums who had a very mild modded GN, capable of 12s quarters on a pretty stock drivetrain. Unfortunately it got torched by thieves This doesn't mean you can do the same thing to a Holden Ecotec without modification, which I believe changes most things other than the block compared to the American version. But I reckon if you could import a bunch of parts from America, you should be able to build a pretty tough pushrod machine.

Yuu can get done for speeding by any cop with or without a radar. If you take it to court, you have a chance of getting off. But it will be your word against his. If you know you were speeding and the cop knows it, then I would say forget about fighting it in court unless you can pull some really dodgy shit (fake witnesses, a $1000/hour lawyer, etc). Because if the cop is honest and has a good record of winning traffic violation cases, then you will most likely lose and get stuck with a bigger fine/court costs. But if the cop is a dodgy pr*ck and has pulled fake tickets before, then the judge will see that he's lost a lot of these before and give your story more credibility. But don't count on this.

I'm not saying that mesh's fuel catalyst is a dud, but I tried a fuel catalyst called a Triple Charger and it didn't do anything. I hooked it up when I started using Oil Extreme in my Commodore so I thought it was responsible for some of the extra power and economy. Then when I swapped cars, I tried it without the Oil Extreme because I had been turned off oil additives by that stage. After about 5 tanks I realised that the catalyst had done absolutely nothing so I took it out. Lately after I put the Oil Extreme in, I found that I got virtually the same extra fuel economy that I got on the Commodore when I had both items hooked up. So I'm thinking that the Oil Extreme was entirely responsible for all the extra power and economy I got. I dunno, I'm just wary of magical devices. Even additives I'm sceptical of, but I think that it's more likely to do something because you replace it every service, rather than some magical box that sits in your fuel line indefinitely. I would have more faith in the catalysts that you throw in your tank that slowly disolve and you replace after time, rather than those that last forever. Edit: Mesh - If your catalyst is working as advertised, it's not actually leaning out your fuel but atomising it better. Therefore you will get a more complete burn, which will give you less black smoke thus giving the illusion that it's leaning out. But it's just burning properly, so your knock levels will be down.

K&N is cotton, not paper

I know nothing of the Aerotech pod, but the Blitz metal mesh pod is not too bad. From the report I've seen it filters slightly better than a HKS foam pod. If the pod is foam, it needs oiling. Foam has huge visible gaping holes, and the oil is the only thing stopping dust getting through. I would think that a dry mesh filter would be slightly better than a foam filter in general, but it would depend on the specific brand.