JimX

Here's what my '95 R33 has, which is still a bit different again. Not sure when it was made other than 1995. Series 1 - front bar, steering wheel, with airbag, interior (velour) but with updated pattern (not quite as dark), rear badge (clear plastic and silver letters, not colour coded). Series 2 - wing, engine, boot lid badge (titanium) ??? - instrument cluster (I wouldn't know the difference), suspension ??? - grille (which I quite like) that's kind of like a rounded GTR grille rather than the slat style of most that I've seen. I think this was just a factory option though, I've seen very few around, and some '95 models with the slat grille. NO passenger air bag And while we are dumping shit on other people's Skylines, I would just like to say that the indicators on the Series 2 front bar look like huge blocks of Lego (blerghhh!)

Does anyone have a pic for the S2 R33 pinouts? Or are they the same?

How old are they? Any pics? Can you post to Sydney?

Try the Whirlpool forums. You will probably get close to your original asking price there.

Back off your timing. The previous owner probably tried advancing it for some extra power. Set it to 15-17 degrees.

The book says oil/filter 10000km for turbo, 15000km for non turbo. This is assuming you use average grade mineral oil. If you use high grade synthetic and halve this interval, you should be more than ok. I don't think you'd ever need to go as far as doing it every 3000km for street use, if you're doing a lot of trackwork you should be changing the oil between races regardless of how many km you've done. Bleeding of brakes is not a normal service procedure. If it needs to be done there's something wrong with your brakes. Unless you just mean changing the fluid. But using a good quality dot 4 or dot 5 brake fluid it should last at least 30000km, probably 60000. Doing it 10-20 times as often than that is serious overkill. For brake fluid I like Caltex GP600, it's got the non squishy properties of a good dot 4, but with a temperature rating as good as many low-end dot 5's. Best of both worlds.

It's all starting to make sense to me.

Man, how many times has this been asked? Do a search for all the arguments as to which is best, but here is a very quick overview. Shell Optimax, Mobil Synergy 8000, and BP Ultimate are all 98 RON. Caltex and Ampol Vortex Gold are 96 RON. All other premiums are usually 95 RON, though sometimes they are 96 RON (it will say on the pump if it's 96). You should try all of them to see which gets you best value for money. I used to run 98 RON fuel on both my car and bike, but the bike runs too rich and not enough timing to take advantage of the 98 RON fuels, and I get the same or slightly better economy and power from normal premium or Vortex. Once I can afford a tune I'll tune it to run on 98 RON fuel. But the Skyline only likes 98 RON fuel and that's all I use (any of the first three, whichever is cheapest/most convenient at the time).

Do you still have the Nismo one? If so I can come and pick it up.

I want to cover my 044 fuel pump in a rubber sock, like some GTRs have. Does anyone know where I can get some rubber that won't disolve in petrol that I can wrap my pump up with? It doesn't have to be a perfect fit, and even if it was a strip of rubber I could just wrap the pump up mummy style. The pump gets noisy when it's hot. It's not a concern at all in winter where it's almost silent, but I'd like to get it fixed up before summer again.

Pic of boost gauge?

You can get NGK Iridiums already gapped to 0.8mm. By pure luck when I ordered mine in, the shop guy got the 0.8mm ones. I knew nothing about spark plug gap back then.

WTF?!

RB20 has top feed, but most are high impedance. I think some early RB20's had low impedance. If you're not sure, just pull a wire connector off an injector and buzz it with an ohmmeter. If it's around 10 ohms or higher, it's high impedance. If it's 0-3 ohms or so, it's low impedance. Most likely you have high impedance, in which case you will need to buy or make resistor packs for each injector to convert them to high impedance. They should physically fit, but you will probably need new O rings.

It is blow-by from your crankcase and probably completely normal, though it depends on how much accumulates over how long. Get an oil catch can and see how long it takes to fill up.

The (factory) ECU should retard the timing to a certain extent if you want to use regular fuel. But it does have its limits, and you can get inaudible pinging which will be damaging to your engine. If you want to run regular, get one of those Jaycar knock sensor readout kits. Run it on premium and keep track of the knock levels. Then swap to regular and if it gets any worse, retard your timing via the CAS by a couple of degrees. Personally I don't see much benefit in running regular unless you do a lot of highway driving where it's running really lean. Your power and therefore economy will suffer and you're saving a lot less than the 7-9cpl extra it costs you to run premium. If you fill up with 50 litres once a week, that costs around an extra $200 a year to use premium for the same amount of fuel. But because your mileage is better on premium, it's probably closer to only $100 extra. As for me who fills up once a fortnight, that's only $50 extra per year. Why would I bother using shit fuel when I can get better, ethanol-free stuff for only $50 extra a year?

I put NGK Iridiums in mine almost 30000km ago, very soon after I got my car. I haven't had a single spark-related problem ever since, and I have never needed to waste time/effort changing my plugs at service time. In effect, they were essentially free. I still had the 8 Iridiums from my Commodore, which I had removed before selling the car. I sold those to a mate who had a V8 Commodore for $100, which covered the entire cost of the 6 replacement ones for the Skyline (they were about $16 each).

I wouldn't consider the spoiler to be either M spec or not. The rounded spoiler is typically categorised as series 1, and the square one series 2. The square spoiler was an option on later series 1 Skylines, but they did away with the round one entirely for series 2, presumably to cut down on production costs. So it's more of just an option really. I don't put it in the same category as the lower front bar and side skirts, which I would consider to be Type M kit, even though I think they were options even for non turbo Skylines. In some ways I prefer the rounded spoiler, and have often thought of selling my square one and replacing it with the rounded one. I know for a fact that it interferes less with the rear view (looked out the rear mirror in a friend's with round one), and can make the car look lower and meaner sometimes. The only reason I haven't done it is because I'm sure as soon as I did, I would start to miss my old spoiler. Maybe when I get enough money I'll just buy the round one so I can swap whenever I like.

Here's a thing for you though - twin turbo the XR8 and see which one is in front then! The current Ford V8 is very underrated. You just need a hell of a lot of money to unlock the potential. Think Soarer V8 aftermarket twin turbo, it's in the same league.

Hehe here's an idea. Let them drive it, but don't let them wear a seatbelt

I've driven a BA XR8, and it actually cornered a lot better than I thought it would. But even with 240kw or whatever it is (it was stock including suspension), it felt like an absolute slug power-wise due to the excessive weight. If someone gave me a 10 second XR6T, I wouldn't complain. I'd even drive it proudly and stick a baby seat in the back However, that doesn't mean I'd ditch the Skyline or even swap my car preferences. I don't care if the Falcon had twice as much power as the Skyline, it just can't make up for style.

From memory they have different numbers of pins. I *think* the older series has more pins, but I'm not sure. Do a search?

I bet that your car was either lowered before you bought it, or you lowered it and didn't do a wheel alignment. I reckon it's your toe and not camber at fault here, because I went through the same thing (lowered without aligning). My car is slammed down on the front and yet the camber isn't all that excessive. But because I didn't do an alignment when I lowered it. the toe was wrong by a few mm afterwards. It then chewed through the insides down to the belts of the fronts within 3000km, but the outside edge was still almost new. Then I got new tyres, fixed the toe without touching the camber, and it's now done 10000km on the new set and no excessive wear on the inside.

If/when I am going to sell my car, I won't be letting a prospective buyer drive it unless they wanna put down a non-refundable $2k cash deposit to cover my insurance excess and then some if they write it off. If they don't want to do that and still insist on driving it, then they're not serious in my opinion. An alternative which seems to work (and is in fact how I bought my car) is to just be the passenger and let them drive it. If they want to know what "a Skyline" feels like to drive, get them to test drive one from a dealer first, then come back to yours. You can pick up most important things in the passenger seat. The only thing I got him to do was let me hold the steering wheel to check for vibration on a straight bit of road. There was none, and no other problems with it that I didn't pick up from the passenger seat.

I've seen a few threads here where people have taken their tyres into a tyre shop for a puncture repair. I thought that some people might want to know that you can repair most punctures yourself at home with a repair kit without having to remove the tyre from the rim. I bought my kit from a motorcycle spares shop, and in fact the same shop uses the same repair kit for tyre repairs they do for their customers, they just charge a lot more because they are supplying the labour. They charge around $20 for a single repair, whereas the whole kit with 8 plugs in it is around $20. Replacement plugs are about $5 for 8 or something. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty straightforward, however the basic overview is like this: 1. Take wheel off car/bike. 2. Remove nail/screw/whatever with a pair of pliers. 3. Use hand drill thing that comes with the kit to round out the hole. 4. Put plug into the plugging tool. The plug is like a short piece of squishy string and the tool is like a big sewing needle but with the hole in the pointy end. 5. Coat plug with tube of gluey stuff that comes in the kit. 6. Push plug into hole, pull plugging tool out so that it kind of wedges the internal ends of the plug back into the hole from the inside. 7. Trim back the excess bit of plug so that it's flush with the tyre. 8. Take tyre to servo and inflate with air. If you're really quick and the tyre is around half full of air or more, you can do this while the wheel is still on the car or bike and plug the hole before the tyre goes completely flat. I had a puncture like this in my bike's rear tyre recently. I rode the bike to the servo with a half flat tyre, did the repair in 5 minutes and inflated the tyre on the spot. Because these go in from the outside, there is a risk of them being pulled out by centrifugal force. However the bike shop guy said that he's done numerous trackdays at EC on his bike with these plugs and no problems. The thing is though bike tyres wear out much faster than car tyres (rears wear out every 3-6 months or 1-2 track days), so I might take more care on a car tyre that did occasional trackwork and had a hard compound tyre that lasted a couple of years. I'm not sure though, the glue *could* be stable enough to last a few years. I'm just saying I don't know. You can get mushroom type plugs which flatten out inside the tyre to stop it being pulled out by centrifugal force, however these plugs are rubber and not squishy like the ones you get in the kit, and they can end up being cut by the steel belts and end up leaking. You can't really do these at home though and they cost $40-60 in a repair shop. So if your puncture repair costs less than $40, chances are it's the cheap push in/pull out type you can do at home. Each type has its pros and cons, the shop I got my kit from didn't like the mushroom style due to them sometimes getting cut by steel belts. Also of course you have to pull the tyre off the rim to fit the mushroom plug so it takes them a lot longer. I have done at least 200kph on a tyre with 2 of the cheap plugs in it and no problems. I've had around maybe 10 tyres with these plugs all up over the years (done by both the shop and by myself after I learned about the kits), and none have leaked before the tyre wore out.