JimX

Without even looking at Greg's rear bush setup my guess would be that it'd be easier to install. Part of the reason why I don't want to put the Whiteline rear bushes in is because once they're in, that's my new camber permanently. Until I replace the bushes with something else or go back to original.

From the non-existent response, I'd say it was the specs that he pulled out of his magical arse.

It only needs to be locked up in your own garage if within 500 metres of your home. Which is a fair enough call. Anyone that parks their 'line on the street is just asking for trouble. There's at least one Skyline owner that lives in Newtown who parks his car in the street, and I know that I don't want to be subsidising *his* insurance policy when it goes missing.

Not by me I gave up when a set of cheap side feed injectors came onto the market. So I bought them and sold my top feeds and fuel rails. The new owner of the fuel rail (sold via Ebay) owns a Silvia and was doing an RB25 conversion, so he's probably not a member here. If you are a member here then please let us know!

Which specs where?

I think SK's preferred settings on his Whiteline bars are hardest setting up front, and somewhere in the middle on the rear. That's roughly what I've got mine set to now anyway.

$50 for the brake light if there are no blown LEDs?

Well I finally adjusted my front swaybar. It had been riding on the second softest setting for the best part of a year, just because I was too lazy to get back under and swap the link arms over to get to the harder settings. When I did get the enthusiasm a few weeks ago, I found that the nut that holds one of the link arms on had totally ceased. I had enough leverage to get it off, but the nut behind it which stops it spinning had stripped, so the whole thing just spun. I bought a replacement and angle-ground the old one off. The car now sits flatter in corners. It's not a quantum leap over the softer setting I had, which was still a lot harder than the factory bar. But it is noticable and adds considerably to the race car feeling. There's only one Whiteline part I've yet to put in my car, and that is the bushes to reduce the rear wheel camber. Has anyone put these in along with the rest of the Whiteline kit? I'm just wondering if it's worth it, as it seems to be the most major operation for the least benefit.

I bought some second hand but as-new factory rotors a few months ago, never been machined, and they were pretty much spot on 30mm.

Are you sure the Hyundais weren't intentionally thrown overboard as boat anchors?

How did he arrive at this dubious conclusion? What research has he done to conclude that GTR engines just can't handle 1000hp+ reliably? I'd say he's just guessing, without having done even a slight amount of research. Ask him what part of the engine "fails" and how he knows that. I would really laugh if he says it's the pistons. If that's the case, then just tell him that there are lots of Skylines running American forged pistons. If he then says that these are the only ones that last, then laugh at him some more. Too many places to go here. I think the first thing to do is find out where he's getting his facts from. If he's pulling them from his arse as I suspect, then it's probably not worth getting into a discussion with him about it.

Ok this is not directly related to Roil, but I'll post it here anyway because it's semi-related. All this talk of Roil made me decide to try putting the Oil Extreme Concentrate that I've had lying around for ages in my engine. I didn't do as much scientific testing as other people have with Roil, all I did was put it in while the engine was running and then see how it felt. And then use fuel economy later as a judge as to whether or not it really did anything. I put the stuff slowly in while idling my engine, just so that one spot didn't get the whole lot at once and do something funny. The first thing I noticed is that my idle speed increased slightly, although after a few minutes the ECU re-adjusted itself and it was back to normal. I then went for a drive and the car did seem a bit more responsive. From my understanding of the Oil Extreme website and what my mechanic told me years ago, this stuff does not affect your viscosity and after checking my oil before and after this seems to be true. The Oil Extreme concentrate itself is very thick and goopy when cold, I think that *if* it did thin out your oil it would have to have some very bizarre viscosity properties itself, like having a weight of 50W-minus 20. I checked my oil (5W-50) after the run and it seems just as thick as before, and not nearly as watery as my old 5W-30. So it seems to be doing something without thinning the oil, and hopefully that's something good. Oh, and the best thing about it? My gear ratios have also changed! (just kidding) Anyway my main point is that if everything is still fine and improved after I run out of Oil Extreme (I got one bottle left) I'll be willing to give Roil a go. If only because it seems to be essentially the same stuff and Roil is easier to buy (dunno where to get Oil Extreme easily anymore).

Ok I'll do it, I have a GTR. Where do I sign? (note: I'll need some warning, because I need time to put the GTR badge back on. You see, I've done a big sleeper conversion to my car to make everyone think it's a GTS-t. This includes de-flaring the guards, removing the 4wd system, replacing the RB26 with an RB25, replacing the dash and interior with a GTS-t's, etc. But I swear it's a GTR! I kept my GTR badge just for emergencies like this for when I need people to know it's a GTR)

Can I ask where you get the front S badge for only $25? Mine cost $40. It's weird that I had to replace it though. The previous owner had obviously been badged, and either couldn't find the S badge or CBF paying the $40. So he got a generic "Nissan" badge (the circular one with square sides) and stuck it on the front. It looked ridiculous! But I left it on there anyway, until I got rear-ended and got the whole car resprayed. After that I felt that it would be a sin to put that ugly Nissan badge back on, so I bit the bullet and got the S badge for $40. But if I ever get badged, I would like to pay $25 to replace it instead of $40! Also does anyone know where to buy the S2 R33 titanium boot lid badge for a reasonable price? I want one spare because I'm so sure mine's going to go missing. I think these things are the best looking boot lid badges on any car, anywhere. Even $200k+ Ferraris don't have boot lid badges as nice as this. Or even R34 GTRs

This is the main reason why you stamp your old engine number onto the RB30 block if possible. As far as the RTA (or equivalent in each state) is concerned, it's the same engine and they will be none the wiser. No one doing a pink slip is going to pop your bonnet and say "Hmm, this engine looks 50mm higher than normal, I think it might not be the original!" The RB30 will probably fail emissions testing, but then again, I'm sure mine will fail as-is anyway with the mods on it and it's still the original RB25. If you buy a second hand block and have to change engine numbers you may strike a problem (although I haven't read of anyone in these forums getting any), but doing it the way SK suggested with the same engine number should get you no problems at all. The head has a much larger effect on emissions than the block anyway. Pistons and blocks are fundamentally the same as they were 50 years ago. Most of the technology advancements go into the head.

Another thing I forgot on the RB25DET replacement, is the refund you get on the head when you sell it. On the RB30 you obviously have to re-use it. I dunno, the RB30 would offer better bang for buck, but I think you couldn't get away with spending LESS money than simply putting in another RB25. I guess it depends on how much spare cash you have, and how much effort (as in time with the car off the road) you're willing to put in.

That's the cheapest quote I've seen for an RB30 conversion. Is there a workshop in Sydney that can do it for that? A lot of the costs I've seen weren't in the building of the engine itself, but in getting all the new bits to line up on the old block, tapping oil lines to match, running new pulleys for the timing belt, etc. Then shoehorning it in. I know installation is *fairly* straightforward, but can it be done as easily as another RB25? Does the exhaust manifold have problems lining up due to the extra height? Admittedly, the forged pistons that most people get are what usually drive it up over $4k, but even minus that I would still think it'd be around $3k to cover the lot. As for the injectors, sweet!

Aside from being illegal to use the tyres that are on it anyway, why will the tyres be "rooted" if they haven't moved in 8 months? Presuming they aren't flat.

How did you arrive at that conclusion? By what physical process do you think the fuel is either burnt or sent back to the tank depending on the temperature?

Plugs sound like the most likely culprit, especially if it was idling properly before the cam belt slipped.

So a bi turbo is one that swings both ways?

A second hand RB25 will cost around $2k, less if you just take a short motor and bolt your working bits on. An RB30 conversion will easily double that. The block is probably the cheapest part of the conversion.

No!

Engine is loose in bay and gets really cold when driven soft, especially when stock?

If you've got a good mix of coolant (33-50%) in your radiator and there are no leaks, it won't boil until it hits 120 degrees or more. My last 2 motorcycles have digital temperature readouts for the coolant. The thermo fans don't even kick in until it hits 108-112 degrees, which it creeps up to only when idling. The thermostat usually keeps the temp at almost spot on 83 degrees when in motion.