JimX

And the next one - are good grammer more plentifuls in nu zeeland Or austalia?

Care factor?

The 1JZ might be a "class beyond" the RB25, but I daresay that the rest of the car (R32+ Skyline) is a "class beyond" any comparable Toyota. What do you buy a car for anyway, the strength of the bottom end? You can change that easily. But you can't change fatass porky styling. My "inferior" RB25 is pumping out 220+ at the wheels and I see any point in comparing it to other engines that are capable of holding more power. My engine does the job and that's all that matters.

Franks, I don't mean to be condescending here but I seriously think you should stick to what you know and stop giving uninformed opinions. Leathers will not stop you dying on hard impact. But they will stop you losing vast amounts of skin on the tarmac if you don't hit anything. And if you think the most common type of accident is one where you hit something, think again. I have been off more times than I can count, and I have yet to hit something. Your analogy between road rash and skydiving is pretty stupid to be honest.

N/A, you should stop chasing up this useless thread and get yourself to a proper motorcycling forum like this one. There is a lot of useless info in here, a lot of it downright inaccurate.

Even though this R1 vs RS250 thing is off topic, I'll put my 2c in anyway. The RS250 will keep up with the R1 in the 0-100 race. The bikes are so quick that you have to worry about looping it before you can get all the power to the ground. But as for top speed, the R1 will shit all over the RS250. There is not enough capacity or revs in the RS to compete. As for quarter miles, I dunno. I would think it'd be more dependant on the rider as to which bike was quicker.

If you're not going to ride it fast why ask our opinion then? Buy whichever bike looks the best to you. Or are you really that obsessed with impressing other people?

Have you actually got your full unrestricted bike licence yet? Or are you planning on riding it illegally and uninsured?

If you are "not a good rider" then get a 250. Why on earth do you want to start on a 600? Edit: And by 250, I don't mean a 2 stroke racing 250.

One thing to remember about oils is they lose viscosity as they get contaminated. So if 5W-30 is on the borderline of thickness when new, by the time it's done 5000km it might be a tad too thin. There is no harm in running a thicker oil to a certain extent. A 15W-50 oil is fine. It certainly isn't "too thick" to run through the oil galleries. If it works when cold then it will work when hot no matter how thick. ALL oil thins as it heats up, some people mistakenly believe that oils with a high hot weight will get thicker as it heats up. Even a mechanic I spoke to told me once that he said that a 15W-50 would be too thick for my engine, but a 15W-40 is fine. This is clearly wrong. The only thing you stand to lose with thicker oil provided it's not overly thick is a bit of power and economy. In my experience, any oil with a 15W cold weight or less is fine on Skylines, which means that it doesn't matter how big the hot weight is. Having a hot weight bigger than 30 though means your oil can stand to lose a bit of viscosity over time and still be higher than 30.

The rubbers aren't the bits that do the scratching on an R33.

Why bother telling us how cheap you got them if you don't say where? Are we suppoed to be impressed?

Auto 1.

I would rather a $20 window tint get scratched over time than my $100 window which is a complete bastard to replace.

When I had my S-AFC with some mild mods (fmic, T3/4 turbo, plenum, etc) it made around 215rwkw after tuning, but with power dipping and surging above 4500rpm or so. I don't know why it did this, other people I've seen with an S-AFC didn't do it, and in fact mine didn't do it before I upgraded my old fmic to a bigger one and changed the plenum. (yes it was re-tuned after these other mods) Then I installed a PowerFC and even without tuning, the dipping and surging is gone. I don't know if peak power has increased, but I'm pretty sure it would have because there aren't any flatspots anymore. In fact it's running so nicely that I still haven't had it tuned over 3 months later. I'm almost maxing out my injectors and definitely maxing out the AFM, so I am going to upgrade these 2 things first before bothering to tune it. This is just my experience on the S-AFC and PowerFC. Take it as you will

Wot 51jay said

Can I ask how much the quote was roughly? Do you know how much it would be to replace synchros?

Ah, I get it now. I was being flamed by an imbecile

Sorry man, you have just 747'd over my head.

Clutch/brake fluid should not be black. If it's black, change it.

The reason why RB26 has shims is because it has solid lifters. As already said, RB25 uses hydraulic and are self-adjusting. Valve noise *could* mean they're worn out, it could also mean one or more are partially blocked with gunk. Try an engine flush and oil change, followed up with some valve lube additive. I had a lifter problem which seems to have been solved by doing the aforementioned. I don't know how long the solution will last though, but the alternative of replacing all the lifters @$100 each plus labour just didn't appeal to me. Thicker oil should also help reduce the noise.

I think there was a Nismo Type M, which has the Supra style spoiler on it. I don't think it was much different from the normal Type M though aside from some cosmetics.

It should be ok, but keep in mind that the 044 will be mega loud if put in a surge tank. Depending on your power requirements you might want to consider something a little smaller/quieter.

If Fire Bringer wants the plenum, I might be interested in the head. How much for them separately?

So, would it have been safe if it was mounted in front of the gauges?