JimX

New I think around $150-200. Mine cost $75 second hand. If you see one for under $100, I say grab it. Definitely worth the bucks if you're dropping boost.

Have you thought about cutting the end off totally, tapping a thread onto the remaining part, and somehow making a "socket" threaded rod with a mounting hole in it? This would effectively turn it into an adjustable actuator the same as the HKS ones.

Nice result! Sorry if it's common knowledge but I haven't had time to read the forums lately. What's been done to the fuel system?

I know I've read a thread similar to this before, but I've done a few searches and can't find it. I went to start the car this morning and it spun faster than normal, like it had lost compression or something. It took forever to start, so I charged the battery in case that was the cause (it wasn't). When it finally started it seemed to run ok. But there was a moderately loud knocking noise coming from the front, which made idling a bit more difficult (but not impossible). I pulled off the CAS to see if the cam gear had moved, but it's still ok. I'm not really sure where the noise was coming from but it sounded like it could have been the water pump. But I checked both coolant and oil and they were still 100% ok (ie no loss and no mixing). Oil catch can is empty, with very little residue coming out of the vent. Apart from this noise and the interfering with idling, it seems like the engine is ok but I'm not sure. I hadn't been thrashing it either. In fact the last time I drove it was to reverse out of the garage and back in again a few days ago, and it didn't have any problems starting then. Anyone got any ideas of what this might be? I'm gonna take it to a mechanic on Wednesday, but if there's anything I can check in the meantime I will.

Yes I know there are better tyres out there, but for the price I don't think I can go past the top-end Falkens. I was all set to buy ST115's, but then I spotted this thread and it's made me contemplate the FK451's again. I had previously ruled the 451's out based on others saying that the ST115's were generally better, but if the 451's are that good compared to bigger brand tyres according to that review they might suit me better. Mainly because they are a silica compound, which grips better in the wet than rubber. If the difference in dry grip isn't much, I think I would rather get the 451's and have better grip in the wet. I have silica tyres on my bike and it roxors my joxors. (although I realise there's more to grip than just the compound) Anyone give me some pointers one way or the other? I am also contemplating the RT215's, but I think they are out of my budget (around $300 more for the set), even moreso considering they will wear faster. But any useful input is appreciated Edit: I had a look at Falken's site and it seems the sizes for the RT215's are pretty limited and I don't think suitable for my wheels. Also, the FK451's seem to have a higher speed rating than the ST115's. That could mean better build quality?

Take a look at the struts through the wheel arches. If it appears wet, then it's leaking oil and needs to be serviced. I had this problem once, a small rock had wedged itself between the steel shaft and the seal, causing a small but deep scratch and therefore leak. It started making a knocking sound and there was oil all over the place by the time I had a look. After that I put rubber boots on to stop it happening in future, but my front struts are still naked. I need to find more rubber boots.

You're not going to hit 250rwkw with the standard turbo.

270-270kw? Not much leeway there At the fly or wheels? Because if at the wheels, you'll need to upgrade the turbo well before 270. If at the fly, your standard injectors will be fine.

My car came with a dehumidifier. It's more commonly known as "air conditioning".

The reason that they have their own list of repairers is because they have already found the cheapest. Any shops that you find are unlikely to beat them, so they can easily make that offer. This is a legitimate question - Say you get rear-ended, and go to the cheapest repairer you can find. How much extra would they charge you to respray the whole car after the repair, rather than just the rear quarter, which would look absolutely retarded when the front half is 5-10 years old?

Meh. I'll stick to insurers that let me choose my own repairer.

Justcars don't let you choose your repairer do they?

Edit: God I hate being corrected by people that don't have their facts straight Whatever the case, the wire works. You don't have to replace it with a resistor or diode.

I'm pushing 220rwkw on the stock injectors (at 95% duty), so I would say that 550's would be more than enough for 250rwkw. They should even be ok for around or over 300rwkw. I'm getting 550's put into my car not for any specific power goals, but just because the stock injectors and AFM are maxed out. Once the new bits go in it'll mean I can safely wind up the boost a bit more The 910 is also good enough.

I really don't know what the big deal is with the 400R, or any factory "special" car like it. To keep its value, you would have to leave it unmodified. So you pay a fortune to buy it in the first place, but then have guys who have spent far less money doing up a normal GTR run circles around you with beefed up engines and tweaked suspension. The only advantage it has is if you could somehow enter it into a factory racing event, but even then I would think the choice of races were limited in Australia. Don't get me wrong, the 400R *is* a nice car and I would not turn it down if someone gave me one, but I wouldn't think someone is a god just because he owned one. To me it's more of an entrepreneur's car rather than an enthusiast's one.

Neil, I thought 1.1 was good for standard cars but 0.8 for modded? :confused: Also, the factory bov is more than capable, but so is the turbo smart one. So why bother wasting time and effort pulling something off that already works properly?

I need to replace the brackets that hold the rubbers at the very least, the wipe pattern front and back isn't working properly. Should I get factory replacements or is the a better aftermarket type I can get? I don't think I want to get Aunger, they seem to be cheap and nasty.

Is it due as in this is your second warning? Or are you going off the original ticket still? If the latter, just wait, they will send you a warning. If they don't, then you don't have to pay.

Possibly over-fuelling (get S-AFC) or incorrectly gapped plugs?

With the clutch - Budget for it, but don't change it until the old one starts slipping. I've seen some cars where the factory clutch ridiculous amounts of power. There's no sense in changing it until it stops working.

250rwkw or so will save you having to build an engine with a stronger bottom end, so you can subtract maybe $3-4000 from the price. But the rest of it still needs to be done with roughly the same costs, maybe saving a little by having to go 550cc injectors instead of 850cc, for example. Oh, I also forgot clutch and suspension in the above, so throw in another $3k or so I have probably forgotten other stuff too. Unless you have a LOT of money to burn right here right now, there are better questions to ask. Such as where to spend the money first, to cater for 250-300rwkw at a later date. For example, getting an FMIC and ECU now will not give you 300rwkw now, but they can be the same things you will use once at that power level and still give you some benefit in the meantime. Suspension is a good place to start.

I would buy a car that was already 300rwkw, if that's what I wanted. It will be cheaper and much more convenient. If you have money to burn and don't mind your car being off the road for long periods at a time, you might want to consider an RB30 conversion. Then add in the usual stuff (fmic, exhaust, fuel system, ECU, etc) and put on a beefy turbo like a GT30. If your car is stock and you have to pay for all of this, set aside the better part of $15k, maybe more. Is there any particular reason you are aiming for 300rwkw?

Ta for the info guys. No I'm not sure my logo is stuffed, but I think it had a few chunks of paint out. I'll have to take another look to be sure. Also I have heard that some people polish the cam covers and sell them with exchange of your old ones for a reasonable price. Does anyone know anyone that does this and how much it costs? Is this something you can do yourself? I've got a drill which I think takes a polishing attachment. What exactly would I use to polish it?

I was thinking of using Castrol VMX80 in my box. It's meant to do a similar job to Redline, but I'm not sure if it comes with increased wear. I wouldn't say my gearbox is shagged. It crunches into 5th fairly often, but not always. The other gears are fine. So I think I wanna do this sooner rather than later.

I got mine from Autobarn in Chatswood and cost $55. I think all Autobarns carry it, but best to ring them first as mine was the last bottle on the shelf. The guy tried to talk me out of buying it, he said it was too thin :confused: I asked him what he would recommend then, he said at least 5W-50 for street driving and 10W-60 for the track. I told him factory spec was 7.5W-30, and he said that was fine on a new, unmodified engine then started going on how I'd spin bearings etc even with a 40 weight oil and light mods. I bought it anyway because I trust what I've researched on the web and what guys in here have had to say about their oil, and so far my bearings are fine. In theory they should have shit themselves while I was running the Castrol 5W-30 for the 10000km before this.