JimX

I have one but it's at home in a locked garage in a locked car in an airbox held together with allen key bolts and I lost my allen keys. Oh and I'm at work which is 20km away

About $20? I forget. I did ask when I was in Auto 1 last many months ago, and it wasn't that expensive. Maybe I needed 2 bottles though, which would make it $40.

Yeah that sounds about right. I'd like to give you a definite answer but I fixed mine so long ago that I can't remember. And I'm at work so I can't check for you I'm pretty sure it's just 2 screws, one either side and underneath. I used a stumpy philips head screwdriver under there somewhere.

By "rough startup" do you mean it struggles to crank over or just cranks over for a long time? If the latter, it's a very common problem on many 'lines. The way I get around it is if it doesn't kick over within 2 seconds, I let go of the key, wait 1-2 more seconds, then crank it over again, and it will start within 2-3 kicks. If I keep cranking it over and it goes beyond 2 seconds, it will not start for another 4-5 seconds or so. Recently I have adjusted the cranking ignition injector duty cycle times on my PowerFC which has pretty much fixed this problem. If you're stuck with a stock ECU then you can't fix it this way.

Castrol VMX80.

My cheapie can also came with a blanking plug, and from what I can tell the blanking plug is not meant to be a blanking plug! I had it swapped with another plug with a hole, which is what I believe it's meant to be. This is so the crank case gases flow out of the rocker covers, through the can where the oil can condense, and then back into the intake again without any oil. Looking at the translucent lines of each it seems to be working well. Very little crap on the exhaust line and none at all on the intake. Yes there will be a buildup of pressure in the can unless you have one of those venting caps, and I don't know how dangerous this is because I don't know how easily it escapes. When I was fitting mine (with no venting cap) I took the drain plug off the bottom and put my finger over it. At idle it was trying to slowly suck my finger up into the can. I didn't rev it but I imagine that under revs it would blow it back out again. That means pressure both ways and I don't think it easily cancels out. What I would do if you can't swap the blanking plug for one with a hole is to just drill a hole in the blanking plug, then fit it all up as before. Oh, of course if you do have a venting cap as many (illegal) cans do, then you don't need to feed the intake back at all. Just leave it with the blanking plug for the cops to see if they pop your bonnet. Although they may spot the breather and do you for it anyway.

I don't think 15cm is going to be enough. Also, the Apexi pod is one of the smallest ones out there, if it doesn't fit then probably no pod will fit. Although the HKS one is more squished even though it's wider, maybe that might fit more easily.

You shouldn't need a regulator if you upgrade the injectors. You will be running the same fuel pressure you are now, just the injectors will flow more fuel into the cylinders at the same pressure. You would have issues if you hadn't upgraded your pump, but you have so it should all be ok. You can also install a rising rate regulator instead of bigger injectors, this is a much cheaper option but can put more of a strain on your injectors. Plus if it ever fails, you will lean out all 6 cylinders pretty much instantly. I have not heard of anyone in here having a regulator fail though, so it could be a viable option.

The car will start with no AFM attached, so it's not necessary to check at all. How can you be sure it's getting fuel if you can't hear the fuel pump? When you switch the car to "ON" without starting, you should hear the pump prime. If there is nothing, then the pump isn't pumping. You will have fuel in the lines already even with no fuel pressure, so d/c the line and seeing fuel is no way to tell. Get a friend to stick his head in the boot when you switch the car on, he should definitely hear it prime from there. Even the quietest pump will be audible from there (turn your damned stereo off! ) You've said there is no spark, well that's definitely one cause of it not starting whether or not the fuel pump is working. If it's not the igniter or CAS, then it could be the ECU not telling the igniter to fire. Try checking all wiring connections and maybe swapping ECU's with a known working one.

Why does a timing belt need to be stronger? It's not under and great deal of stress. If it was harder wearing or longer lasting, that would be more important I would have thought. But even the factory belt will do over 100k km, and it's sensible to change it at 100k no matter what the brand. So I can't see any point in paying double for a timing belt that's "10% stronger".

This is a common problem. Almost certainly it's the diode in the circuit under the red plastic. Check the fuse first to make sure, but I think the same fuse controls other things like the rest of the brake lights so you'll probably have no brake lights at all if it's the fuse. Remove the whole lighting assembly (I think it's held in with 2 screws from underneath) and check the circuit with an ohmmeter. If it's open, then it's probably the diode. Separate the red lens from the backing plastic with a razor blade or the like, and look near where the wires go in, you'll see the diode and probably notice it's burnt out. You can either replace the diode with the same type, or just put a straight piece of wire in. The diode is only there to stop the whole series of LEDs getting zapped if you wire it in back to front, which you won't do because the plastic clip is directional. So a bit of wire is fine (that's how I fixed mine). Put it all back together, using spots of super glue here and there to hold it in place. Not too much though because you want to be able to pull it apart again if you need to fix it in future. If you use wire instead of another diode though you probably won't ever have to fix it, except to replace individual burnt out LEDs, which is a total bitch to do and probably not worth the effort.

The only problem with the GTiR is the gearbox is fragile. I don't think it would last that long if you were pulling consistent 11's. However get it replaced with something better (expensive) and the rest of it is pretty bulletproof and cheap to get into the 11's.

I can't think of any current model sportsbike that hasn't swapped over to fuel injection. The Yamaha R6 and R1 were 2 of the last to change over. The difference on bikes with carbs and injectors is not that great. You can get virtually as much power out of flatside carbs on a bike as fuel injection, you will just suffer a tiny bit of response and economy. Even though it is cheap to put an ECU and injectors in, carbs were still generally cheaper (until recently at least). The main reason why Yamaha finally made the move is because everyone else did it, and was therefore a marketing ploy rather than a performance one. The biggest problem with carbs on bikes is tuning the buggers. Edit: Many Jap "cruiser" type bikes still use carbs, but this is more to do with the "image" of trying to look like a Harley. Again, marketing.

P1E, how much did you want for the bar?

Yes it means getting the dash out. I was hoping I could remove the valve without the core or dash.

I spoke to someone that knows more about this thing, and they reckon that there is a valve in one of the hoses that often plays up. He reckons that this is more likely the cause than a blocked heater core. He said that it was on the inside of the firewall where one of the heater hoses comes in. Aside from that though I don't have much of an idea of how to get it out or replace it. Does the dash need to come out? Anyone with experience and/or photos please help!

I know a few of you have had wiring problems, myself included. I think I have finally found a good place that knows Skyline wiring, that being Incar Option. I took my car there to get my alarm fixed. Even though they didn't really touch the wiring, after speaking with the guys they seemed to know all the nuances of the wiring system and they said they could fix all wiring faults in Skylines and other Jap imports, so if my car's electrics ever play up again I'll be taking it there.

The RB74's are dusty, but it takes about 1000km to accumulate the same amount of dust that an Ultimate gets in 100. In my experience anyway. Also my RB's don't squeal, but every pair of Ultimates I've had in the past do (well 2 pairs), and loudly. The RB's also wear discs slightly (as do any hard pad) but again less than the Ultimates in my experience. I thought both Ultimates and RB's were rated to 550 degrees. Edit: Well Zahos says that Ultimates chew discs more than Ultimates. My Ultimates were on a different car (Commodore) so maybe with the same car the RB's chew them more. But my disc wear is much less now than it was on the Commodore. Also, I *can* get the RB's to squeal on certain slowdowns, but it takes a certain amount of pressure/deceleration and it's not a normal one. On most journeys my pads don't make any noise at all. With the Ultimates I had they squealed from new on regular stopping. I even tried sanding them down and machining discs, but the noise came back really quickly.

Ultimates are a dirty, squealy, disc-chewing, under-performing pad. People get attracted to the "Ultimate" name and think it means the ultimate pad. Maybe for Bendix, but Bendix are hardly the world's leaders in brake pad performance. They are probably the best pad for under $100, as long as you don't mind the dust, noise, and harshness on your discs. But personally, I'd rather fork over an extra $30-50 and get something markedly better in all departments.

I think usually Comp9's go better in the rears with RB74's up the front? Don't get Ultimates unless you want a pov pack sports pad. The RB74's cost more but are definitely worth it, if only in time saved in cleaning the wheels for the Ultimates! (but they are a better pad all round).

4doorGTR, that is a damned good suggestion. Why didn't I think of that? I was thinking that it may be blocked, but had no idea of how to check it without pulling it out.

When you consider the value of the car, $5k is nothing.

Why is this thread not in the wasteland?

I thought more that he was taking the piss out of the thief.

Am I the only person whose sarcasmometer is working?