JimX

Well I found out that they were only $120 at the door, so I'm not sure where this $140+ came from. Maybe after the door tickets sold out I guess.

Maybe they were just so ****ing thick that they got halfway through hotwiring it and then thought "Dammit! How am I going to steer this thing when I start it?" and then buggered off.

How did they break the club lock? And was the alarm disabled or still going off when you got to the car?

I wouldn't over-estimate the tenacity of professionals. *Some* will take it regardless, but there are a lot of "professional" thieves that will be not so much thwarted by complicated security measues but just find an easier target instead. So to all of you guys out there without alarms and club locks - please don't get them, and make sure you park near mine if you see it!

This chick was just addicted to Corollas. She's had them before and always liked them, and got hung up on getting a "twin cam" Corolla because she considers it to be a sports car. If she had said from the outright that she'd rather have a Corolla I still could have found her a better one for less money. She even passed up on a supercharged Corolla, because it had a bung clutch. The guy was up-front about it and willing to negotiate the replacement off the price, but she didn't want a car with any problems to start with. If I was with her at the time I could have convinced her it'd still be worth getting with the stuffed clutch. In the end the car she bought ended up being off the road for even longer for a variety of other minor problems. And it cost more than the supercharged version to begin with.

Something doesn't add up. If the pedal was high<->low before the bleeding, then surely if that was the problem it would be consistently high after bleeding? I can't see how air in the lines would let the pedal go any higher at all. That would imply that the fluid is more compressable than the air. This is a weirdarsed problem and it's probably got the simplest solution! You just need to figure out what it is.

How much was the ticket at the door?

This happens so often. A friend of my girlfriend's asked me if I could help her find a sports car, she was thinking of getting an RX7 for around $5000. I said sure, I would track some down for her and we'd all go out on the weekend and check out the ones that were within her budget. I found a few on the Trading Post and it was all looking good, I made notes and sms'd her with some details and she seemed very enthusiastic. That was on a Tuesday or so. On Wednesday afternoon, my girlfriend messages me and tells me that her friend just bought a twin cam Corolla. She went with her dad and bought the second one she looked at. It has issues, and she got it from a dealer (and hence paid around $1000-2000 too much). Why do I bother?

What security devices on the car did you have? Did they disable them before attempting to steal it? Or did they try to take it with an alarm blaring for example.

Err, guys? Attractive chick driving an expensive sports car. How do you think she afforded it? I'd think twice before hitting it

Crap! That really sucks. I always thought they were the best guys to get insurance from if you're >30 and have an expensive sports car. Try calling a broker then?

I have one of those timing lights that shows up double what it really is. ie, 30 degrees when it's really 15. How would I go about setting it to anything higher than that? 30 is the highest marking on the crank.

Swoop, give Torque Underwriting a call. They should be able to help.

MIC33R, I was scared of doing it myself too. Read back in this thread and see for yourself! But once I listened to enough advice about other people doing it, I decided to give it a go and I'm glad I did. Once you've done it for the first time, you should be able to do it again within half an hour if you want to swap back again for whatever reason.

Well I ran the second test which is meant to test the mode doors and they all came up ok. I could hear them moving around so I'm pretty sure that's not it. It just seems to have difficulty in determining the temperature. I'll try the test again in sunlight and if that clears but I still get the PBR error I guess I'll have to look into it further. Otherwise buggered if I know what's wrong.

There was another thread where someone was giving advice on how to get off tickets and said he'd even gotten off some where he was guilty, just because the cops couldn't corroborate their stories. I forget the details though, maybe you could search if interested. Only the guy in question can know if he thought he was doing something wrong. If he feels it was just revenue raising in action I reckon he should contest it. Without the full details such as a written off bus shelter we can't really pass judgement. I'm not going to say that it's not our place to pass judgement because we will do so regardless If I got done for 66 in a 50 zone I would contest it. But that's not likely to happen because I tend to do 55 in 50 zones, where that will only land me a ticket in Victoria.

Fark, why be so harsh to someone that went 65 in a 50 zone, which was a 60 zone only a few years ago anyway? It's not like he went sideways into a bus shelter at 110.

Oops I forgot to describe the symptoms. At night the climate control is still cold, even when set to 32 degrees. Well it's slightly warmer when set to 32, but still relatively freezing. If I turn the a/c off, it starts to warm up slightly, but still nowhere near 32, and of course then the glass fogs up because the a/c is off. So I'm doing an endless adjustment of the climate control between keeping the temperature right and the fog off the windows. It's annoying to say the least. Thanks for that info 2fardown, I didn't think to put it in the sun to try it. Maybe it's fine, so that would leave the PBR I guess? Hmm.

Ok my climate control is faulty, so how do I fix it? I did the diagnostic and it flashes up 25 (sunload sensor) and -26 (PBR). I don't know what the PBR is, and I don't know why it flashes up with a negative symbol. Can someone tell me how I would fix both of these things?

Oh man, I would pay to see a factory cooler mounted in the front! Ghetto mods R us!

Not so much "Oh shit, I'm farked!" but "Oh shit, my car's farked!" Halfway to Chatswood for some Saturday morning shopping. Floor it out from a red light onto Epping road. Hit around 5000rpm, then the car goes POP! FIZZ!! thrub thrub thrub as I try to accelerate. Holy crap! Pull over, I thought I farked my car. Pop the bonnet, couldn't see anything wrong. Get it towed home rather than limp home in case something's really stuffed, total cost of $3.60 or something because it was 1km over the free NRMA limit Have another look under the bonnet (after ringing Tony and asking if he knows what the sound effects might have been) then realise it was just the intake hose behind the AFM popped off

Dave, the reason he copped shit wasn't that he crashed a GTR, it was because (a) he talks bollocks on these forums, (B) he's already crashed another car by being a dickhead, © he didn't pay for either car he wrote off himself, and (d) he wants to replace the car he wrote off with another GTR which he will probably write off in the same way again. Still, it's not all his own fault. At least some of the responsibility has to rest on his parents.

Err, no. It settled around 2 months after I installed them, and has been at the same level ever since. I installed them a year and a half ago.

I have Whiteline springs in my car. For some reason the front is lower than the back by around 15mm I think. It used to be 20mm or so but it settled a bit a few months after the install. It looks good but I'm not sure if it's deliberate or not. The height is meant to be 345 I think, but it's more like 335 on the back and 325 on the front.

Well it looks like you've already helped 2 people solve this problem. Does anyone know how they crack to begin with though? Is it just heat that stresses them out? Might be worthwhile setting up some sort of ventillation for the centre cover, especially in summer.