JimX

I'd say it's running too rich. Mine will touch on 30 sometimes and it's still too rich. The engine warning light comes on at 60 as previously said but the manual says that even at this level it's not necessarily detonating. The only way to tell is to get the AFR's checked on the dyno.

So fast it can't even be captured on film!

The $250 is not 1/12 of the premium, it's 1/8th of 5/6th of the annual premium. Or something like that.

The radiator is cooled through the intercooler. It's just not cooled as effeciently than if there was no intercooler.

$11k is a lot of moolah to spend on a GTS-t in stock form. My car has at least that much worth of mods on it, but I bought the car with a lot of the mods already in place. If I a full $11k extra to start with, I would have preferred to buy a GTR. The only reason I didn't was because it was just a little too far out of my budget. At the time (1.5 years ago) the cheapest GTR was $30k. I had about $25k to spend all up including insurance and rego, so it was just too far out of my budget. If I had the money again today, I think I could squeeze an R32 GTR into my budget But now the money's been spent on the GTS-t and it's got some nice mods, and I wouldn't wanna "upgrade" to a stock GTR with it.

What was recommended to me when I got my cooler was that if you have the space, tube and fin is better because it has less pressure drop. So for the same area, bar and plate would flow more hp, but have a greater pressure drop. There is a lot of room up the front of a Skyline to put a pretty big cooler up there. If I was chasing really big hp numbers where space *would* start to become a limiting factor, then hell yeah, I would readily swap to bar and plate. I think there is a lot of misplaced "prestige" on bar and plate coolers, because they are more expensive, because they cool better for the same size, and because more people think they look better (my tube and fin was actually designed to look like a bar and plate and I'm sure this was a marketing thing only). But combined with the extra pressure drop, this does not always mean better. I had the choice of either, I chose tube and fin. The extra bits in the ARE article about it being stronger and easier to repair made me more glad that I chose tube and fin.

Joel, did you read the ARE article?

np

Can you ship to Sydney? I would only be interested in the pair with 40% tread (only my rears are the right size).

One thing overlooked is that tube and fin coolers are stronger than bar and plate and also easier to repair. If you are considering an older second hand cooler, tube and fin is probably a preferable option.

Haha, the funniest thing in that thread is the guy saying that his Haltech was plug and play because it was installed in under 3 hours. If that's true, then my FMIC was plug and play too because it was installed in under 3 hours as well. And so was my front facing plenum, my previous S-AFC (hell, that was less than *2* hours including wire splicing), and my 550cc injectors will also be plug and play Jeebus, my whole car was plug and play! All those mods aren't as complicated as I thought

Don't both of these ECUs disable your climate control? And maybe other stuff.

I agree. And the same goes for people that say "I can get part X for $Y". If you can't get that price for everyone else or at least point people in the right direction, why bother wanking on about it? Who cares how cheap you can get stuff if you're not willing to share the cheap prices?

You're the only person I know of with RB74's who has this problem, so you can almost certainly rule out the pad compound. It's possible that they weren't broken in properly and the pads are glazed though. You might want to pull them out and sand them back and re-break them in again to see if that helps. But I'm almost 100% sure it's not the pad compound itself to blame here. The RB's get up to proper temperature after 1 or 2 stops and stay warm enough thereafter unless you do a lot of highway driving in between braking. But even when stone cold in the middle of winter, I never found them to be squishy at all once I'd left my driveway. And they only got better from there.

If one fails you'd never know, unless you had a really keen ear. You'd be better off just carrying a spare of the same type and the tools to fit it, if you were really worried about pump failure on the road.

Err yeah, but why? Edit: in tank it will be farkin' expensive. You'd really need to put them in a custom surge tank. But again I ask why? The 044 handles up to 700hp on its own. Combined with a smaller pump you might find it harder to control the fuel pressure. If you want to pair them up it's best to use the same pumps.

Haha, that reminds me when I was in primary school in the 70's. There were a couple of kids in my year (wouldn't call them friends) who used to draw "rally cars" with "turbos" in them. Everyone kept talking about turbos and stuff, until one day I got curious and asked what a turbo was because they'd write "TURBO" on the car but I couldn't see anything different to normal on it. The guys who "knew" what a turbo was looked at each other and pissed themselves laughing, saying as if I wouldn't know what a turbo is. I got a bit embarrassed, and said "Well how would I know what one is if no one ever told me what it was before? Did you know what it was before anyone told you?" One of the guys said "Yeah, I did!" At this point I realised that he was something of a mental giant. So I said "Ok then, so what's a turbo?" and the guys kept looking at each other and laughing, then one guy said "You tell him" to the other one. So the second guy said "Ok look. You'll be driving the car along right, then all of a sudden it will go a lot faster." doing moving motions with his hands as if it was the car. I said "Ok that might be what it does, but what is it?" "I just told you, are you ****ing stupid!?" was the reply. At this point I did not only not feel embarrassed, but felt a hell of a lot smarter than these idiots, even if I still didn't know what a turbo was. I found out what a turbo was some time later, and after that I occasionally said to one of them "So, do you know what a turbo is yet?" and never got an answer. I presume he knows what one is now, maybe

The gearbox can take over 700Nm of torque. If you can apply that much torque through a breaker bar, you should probably be in some sort of record book

I had a Torana which broke down due to a busted oil pump. The NRMA guy arrived and was diagnosing it (I didn't know what it was as yet) and some yobs in an XB Falcon cruised past and said "Buy a Ford!" I thought it was kind of funny and didn't really care, but the NRMA guy got really offended. He started muttering under his breath stuff like "Oh that's REALLY FUNNY, moron!" etc. I found the NRMA guy's reaction to be funnier than the original one-liner coz he took more offence to it than me

I bought an Apexi wheel from Greenline. It was $175 delivered. From what I can tell it's just a modified factory wheel with a new centre made by Apexi. The clearance is VERY close, there's absolutely no side to side play when the adjusters are loosened. In my mind that makes it a very high quality product. I got it because it was the cheapest available, but wouldn't have if it wasn't a big name brand. Since it uses the steel outer edge it won't have a problem of wearing out like the slightly more expensive HKS item. It also has 5 mounting/adjusting points rather than 3, so I would think it would be less likely to work loose and slip.

I love the R33 Type M bar! Whether series 1 or 2. One of the few factory bars out there for any car which I think just oozes class. It's not the best, but I've thought many times about upgrading mine and then thought it just wasn't worth the hassle because the standard bar still looks horn enough for me. Btw Pred, this gets another vote from me for worst thread ever 3 equal first places in my opinion.

I vote for either this one, or the one where the guy wanted a list of 1/4 mile times from stock cars, and wasn't going to even buy one for 2 years (actually, if he DOES buy one within 2 years I'll give him $10!)

The "surging" noise happens because Skylines have a variable resistor for the pump. When 100% fuel pressure is not required ie at idle or light cruising, it increases the resistance and the fuel pump slows down. With the PowerFC it seems to vary this a lot more between simply "on" or "off" like the factory ECU does. It also seems to want to vary a lot even when just idling, so the noise becomes a bit more annoying and "groaning" kinda because it dips up and down rather than just clicking between high and low pressure like with the factory ECU. Joel, if your pump does the same noisy thing when hot then I guess they all do it. Design flaw maybe?

Pentae, you need to build a bridge.

From a guy that doesn't know what oil to put in his car, I would say your knowledge is spurious at best.