JimX

One thing that annoys me about Geoff Risbey is the fact that he doesn't include the prices of tyres or rego and stamp duty. Sure these things vary, but he could at least put the MINIMUM amount that they will be. People that have $16k might think they can afford a car which Geoff says will be on the road for $15700 but there's no way they'll do it for that price. He even says on every listing "normal licensing costs for any vehicle" so why not include at least a rough idea of how much they are? Still, $18k for that R33 is a pretty good price.

The standard internals will cope with around 450hp, maybe more depending on how good your tuning is.

Around $20k should get you a 95 model with a few mods like exhaust, wheels, bleed valve or boost controller, maybe fmic, etc. Stock you should be able to get mid to high 14's.

The problem with an R1 is it has an incredibly short wheelbase. You cannot use all the power off the line or you will loop it.

Walbro cheaper, quieter, and doesn't flow as much as is claimed under pressure. Go the Bosch, costs around the same as a second hand GTR pump but is brand new.

Brand new they are just under $20k. Second hand you can get them for under $13k. $15k is about average. Have a look on Tradingpost if you don't believe me. For $35k a Hayabusa would be running 8's easily. I think there's a turbo kit for around $10k, plus you lengthen the swingarm to help stop it looping. I'm not saying that one is better than the other, all I'm saying is by having a GTR that can beat a Hayabusa is only proving that you have more money to burn.

I don't know what you've been smoking, but a Hayabusa does not cost anywhere near $35k. Unless you're talking about adding $20k worth of mods of course. But if you're talking about mods, see other people's posts above.

And a win to the GTR would prove what exactly? That you can tailor-build your own car for $80k+ that will beat a $15k motorcycle?

The camber kit is only for if you lower the car. At the standard height the camber is correct. I would say that installing the camber kit without lowering it would be detrimental to handling.

On the back I usually put the stands under the suspension arms. The diff is the round bit in the middle between the tail shaft and the 2 axles.

Everyone's opinion is biased!

Are you talking about the castor and rear camber bushes only? If so then I would get them. I've yet to put my rear camber bushes in but I know it'll improve rear traction when I put them in. The castor bushes improve the feel of the steering, it will make the steering a bit heavier but it will feel a lot more solid, like you can more easily point the car in the exact direction you want to go. More like a racing car feel If you mean other bushes (sorry I'm not up to speed on what's in the current kit) then I can't say because I don't have any others. I imagine a front camber kit may be useful, not as useful as the rear though because there's no power to my front wheels. May be more useful on a GTR but even then you're not using the front wheels constantly for power.

A lot of them do this, I'm not sure why. Mine goes through phases but other than that it runs perfectly so I just live with it. If it doesn't crank within a couple of seconds, I just stop cranking, wait 1-2 more seconds, then it fires up first kick. Because I know if it doesn't start within 2 seconds, it won't start within 5 Also (could be related) the remote start on my alarm system doesn't always work, like it won't even attempt to start the car. Someone told me once that the CAS has to be in a certain range for it to work, so it'll only work roughly 1 in 10 times depending on where the engine's stopped. If you have this problem then try my method of starting and see if it improves. If it works then there's probably nothing to worry about. Edit: Hmm I just remembered Raist60 gave some advice on how to improve starting with a PowerFC setting, and I forgot to try it. I'll give it a go and see if it helps me, but that doesn't help for anyone with a stock ECU.

A decent respray is around $3000. You can probably knock $1000 off this if you do the prep work yourself, though I'm not sure how much of an expert you have to be to do that properly. Where did this happen? This kind of shit really pisses me off, makes me want to form some sort of vigilante group and find these pricks and bust em up good!

I have seen 32's with the over-the-top pipes so I would say yes Instead of going back along the front near the cooler, the pipe goes straight up near the washer bottle (I think you need another hole, mine did) and then over the top of the radiator, and then across the top of the engine. The cold air tube is something I've been meaning to do for ages, I just never got around to it

Turn the spring compressors upside down and squish the springs while you put the struts in. Then undo them when the strut is in place. If you can't fit the jack in, it should be easy enough to use brute force to pull the suspension arm down a bit while pushing upwards against the shock and slide it onto the stud. The more I think about it, the more I think I just used the jack for the rear and just used brute force for the front (no spring compressor for me).

There is more than enough room to jack the shock up if the car is up on axle stands. And by trolley jack, yes I do mean the ones with wheels You just need to push the shock up in a kind of next-to position to the stud, and then kind of slide it over. It's pretty easy once you get it into the right position, which can take a bit of fiddling. You don't need a spring compressor but it might help if you can't do the jack trick. Keep in mind that new shocks are pretty hard to push up on their own anyway so you might need the jack regardless.

I think it's $750 or so these days. I can't remember exactly but I do remember I got mine just before the price hike and I saved around $150.

Aluminium DOES conduct and absorb heat, and rather well. What do you think the heat sink on your CPU is made of? Aluminium actually conducts heat better than steel or iron. (note: I know that some heat sinks are copper or other fancy materials. I'm just playing the odds here. My heat sink is copper ) Edit: Of all the piping in your intake system, I'd say that the one going to the air box (if you have one) is the one least likely to be affected by heat soak. So you could get away with exposed aluminium there. Hell, I even have exposed aluminium on my intercooler piping and it doesn't seem to worry anything. But PVC is a lot easier to cut and work with, and cheaper. For something you can't really see from the engine bay, PVC is probably going to be a better option.

I've got the Whiteline swaybars and bushes. They give you new bushes and linkage arms for the rear, and new mounting bushes for the front, but for the front you need to re-use the original linkage arms and bushes to connect them to the suspension arm. The other bushes are rear suspension arm bushes to reduce camber, and new front castor rod bushes to increase castor. The fronts are pretty easy to do, just take the radius rods out and take them to a suspension workshop to press the old bushes out and press the new ones in (cost around $20) and then just put them back in the car and get a wheel alignment done. The rears I haven't tackled yet because it looks a lot more complicated. I think there are 4 bushes per side that need to be pressed out, but you have to remove the whole suspension arms to do it. Once they are out it shouldn't be too hard to get them pressed out and in like the radius rods.

The same could be said with regards to an S13 and an R32, so the question to be asked is why didn't you get an S13? Any choice you make in a car is a compromise on something and a lot of people seem to forget that. The R32 is not universally better than the R33, nor vice versa. There's a lot more to choosing a car than getting the lightest thing possible. People continually bag out the R33 for being heavy, but everyone seems to forget that it's still 200-300kg lighter than a Commodore or Falcon. On top of everything else, my motorcycle is lighter and faster than your R32

Could you take the old sump plug to the shop and get them to match it? If you don't have a functional sump plug, you could buy one first from a wrecker.

Ah, here's yet another advantage of the front facing plenum mod With the front facing plenum you free up a hole under the air box which was previously used by the old intercooler piping, which you can then run your piping down. You can also free up the hole by re-routing your FMIC up and over the radiator instead of through the old pipes. If you've still got the stock intercooler, or a front mount coming back through the factory piping, then you pretty much have to cut another hole in the same area. Personally, I would do one of the other mods first and then just re-use the old hole, rather than cutting a new one. But people have cut the extra hole with success.

I have an Apexi pod, but I found that unless you're using a cold air partition, the HKS gives you noticably more power. I *think* this is because it faces more to the front and has more of a face to the incoming cold air, whereas the Apexi pod can suck in hot air from the sides. But when I put the box in, the power was pretty much the same for both (I couldn't tell the difference anyway). If you didn't want a cold air box/partition, I would probably prefer the HKS filter or another one of a similar shape. Although then you have to worry about the particle filtration, which was my main concern when choosing the Apexi pod.

Jacks are the best way. If you don't have one, get yourself a trolley jack, they are really useful. Use it to put the car up on axle stands, then when it's on the stands, pull the jack out and use it to jack up the shocks. It's really easy once you do a few. Everytime you do them you just get naturally better at it and therefore quicker.