JimX

Well, the problem is I can't even get the original one back on The belt is just too tight. Can I somehow loosen the tensioner or something? Or just lever the wheel on somehow.

Thanks for that, I checked and it does indeed have a key and can only go on one way.

Ok now I'm just depressed. The hardest thing so far is getting the wheel back on. How do yo do it? I tried putting the original one on but it's still bloody impossible. What can I use to lever it on and where do I lever it? There just doesn't seem to be any points where I can lever it from. The cam seems pretty well fixed in place, if I can't rotate the crank with a socket (since I don't have a 27mm one) can I move the cam slightly? I've already marked where it was when I pulled the wheel off so I've got a reference point. No rush in response, I'm going to leave it for the day. I need a break!

Can someone tell me where the crank nut is? Does it need to be rotated with a socket or will a bigass shifter do?

Ok so I've pulled the CAS off after marking where it goes, in preparation for putting my cam wheel in. But then I accidentally bumped the spindle thing on the inside, before I took note of where it lined up. Can someone tell me where if anywhere it's supposed to line up before putting it back in? Or doesn't it matter?

Already loctited.

The 95 ECU is well over-rated. Get a PowerFC and you'll see the light

Hmm, maybe the big front bar wasn't standard even in 95 then.

Oh, that may be cause for concern then Mine never gets above 40 or so even on a warm day at redline (PowerFC scale here though).

If the manual doesn't say, then I would just assume they used the same scale as the PowerFC. Which would put your 20 at a very safe level.

13.5V is fine. Maybe it had been over-charging in the past and damaged all the coilpacks and now they are just starting to go?

RS73, that's a common problem when the alignment is done by a shop that hasn't centred the wheel properly before doing the alignment. Basically you align the wheels to match the steering wheel, not the other way around! I would have taken it back to the shop and told them to fix it. I got a 4 wheel alignment done for $60 at Goodyear in Castle Hill, and it was the best (not to mention the cheapest) 4 wheel alignment I've ever had done. It's hella out of my way but I'm going back there to re-align the front end since I've put in new castor rod bushes.

I have been told that they will work. Just snip the pin that gets in the way and go for it.

I know they don't like the heat, but we haven't reached the peak of summer yet so that can't be the main problem. I guess it could be over voltage? Check the voltage output of your alternator, it might be slightly over charging. If so get it fixed asap, there are plenty of things that will fry at over >14.3V or so. You could try running without the middle plastic strip over the coils/plugs, but you would then tend to get a lot more crap down there. I thought about modifying mine to include ventillation holes, maybe with some sort of gauze filter.

Skyline_Boy, I believe the bigger spoiler and front bar were options on 94 models and became standard on 95 models. Many people refer to the bigger front bar as a "Type M" (GTS-t, turbo model) bar because I think the GTS still came with the smaller bar as standard in 95 (not 100% sure though). But I think the bigger bar was still an option on the GTS. MINES_DATSUN, the main differences I can think of off-hand are different ECU and different igniter/coil packs. The gearbox/diff/engine though are pretty much the same.

1. Definitely not! 2. Well, I'm guessing the question should have been "if not" rather than "if so" Basically you have to modify the old bracket and cut bits off, and take the sock off the end of your old pump and cut a plastic tag off. Basically once you mod these 2 things you can never go back to the stock pump with the old parts, you'll pretty much have to buy a complete second hand pump assembly if you wanna go back. You also need to buy a couple of hose connectors and wiring connectors. It's a couple of hours work if you know what you're doing. 3. You don't need a surge tank, and with an 044 you probably don't want to put it on a surge tank if it's anything other than a track car, unless you like the sound of a NOISY pump. It's not very loud if in the tank, but in the boot it's bloody noisy. Mine seems to increase a lot in noise as it warms up (internal install). 4. I think I saw one in the trading forums for $350 or so. That's a pretty good price and well worth the money. Edit: Of course, if you want to fit a surge tank, you don't touch the original pump assembly at all.

Rev the tits off it! Well, kinda. Have a read of this article. It makes sense, and I think I'd like to do it to my engine come rebuild time. But the guys at Bel Performance got really upset at Tony just for driving his rebuilt car sedately around the car park, and it was enough to make me think twice about the procedure. I dunno, after reading it again it still makes sense. I think I'd do it. If you try it, let us all know how it goes. Hopefully I won't need a rebuild for quite awhile. The engine's done >100k km and there's not even any blow-by in the oil catch can lines after 1000km from when it was installed. I think the only things that'll make me need one are a failed ringland or spun big end bearing. [disclaimer: I'm not responsible if it kills your engine! All I can say is that I think I would do it myself] Edit: when I broke in the engine on my new motorcycle 2 years ago, I couldn't resist the temptation to open it up every now and then within the break-in period. It didn't do anything strange, like no weird losses of power or overheating, and no weird noises. So I'm pretty sure it would have been ok to follow the above procedure, if I knew about it at the time.

After B-Man's flowtesting results of the standard plenum, I am now convinced that "even flow" of cylinders of a plenum are largely irrelevant, if the standard runners are used. It also explains why my front facing plenum, which wasn't designed or tested for even flow (it's just a tube) doesn't cause any significant leaning out of the rear cylinders or air starvation of the front ones. I believe the Sub Zero plenum uses the standard runners, but the website's been down for so long I can't be 100% sure.

Is this sound synonymous with the ubiquitous ringland failure? (sorry for the big words, I was just reading the grammar thread in the wasteland )

Why is the 95 model the best?

Knock is worse when it's hot because hot air assists detonation. Basically the amount the air heats up over-compensates for the amount it thins out over the same temperature rise and you get more/easier detonation.

11261 yen plus 2100 yen delivery = AU$175 at the exchange rate on the day (a few weeks ago). The HKS one was the next one up on the price list at around 11800 yen I think.

Sorry to keep replying to this thread But I'd never seen a picture of an Apexi cam wheel before mine arrived this morning. I thought some of you might be interested so I took 2 pics and attached them here. When I was looking at buying one I found Apexi to be the cheapest, and because of that it made me wary. To be honest if the brand wasn't Apexi I would have gone for a more expensive one, it was just that I trusted the name and so I decided to go for it. After looking at it and feeling how solid it is and how precise the machining is, I'd say it's as good as any other in the quality stakes. There are no doubt lighter/stronger ones available, but at a higher price. I'm happy with my choice.

Ok I've got my 2 degrees dialed in. I've thought about it and I have to agree with the consensus of anti-clockwise. Now I don't want this to move, ever. So I'm thinking I will put some loctite on the nuts or something.

Jay, does this mean you've adjusted yours in the wrong direction? Or you just forgot which way you did it until now.