JimX

Ok, so someone wanna summarise this? Come rebuild time, you polish the inside of your head and coat it and valves in ceramic. Actually, wanna go one further and do the pistons/rods as well? Shotpeen the rods and put both rods and pistons through that cryogenic freezing process? Anything else?

And here I was feeling stupid for not knowing which way it was supposed to go. It's good to see a healthy argument about it, I feel less stupid already

Impedance may not be a problem if you use resistors, but wiring it all up is a bitch. You wanna make sure you do it properly too, because if you don't, you can probably say goodbye to the injector or hello to leaning out.

How does the Unichip for the R33 work? Do they replace the whole ECU or just the main chip inside? Either way does everything else work as before, like air conditioning etc? How much do they charge for the unit itself and programming/reprogramming?

The fine for not running a cat is a total farce. My motorcycle is not legally required to have a cat and it requires premium unleaded fuel, and therefore it spews out many more pollutants than most cars. And yet I can ride it like this LEGALLY day in day out, but if I did the same thing to my car I would be slugged with a $10k fine or whatever it is. What a joke. And it's not like you can't fit a cat onto a motorcycle, there are several models out there coming with them fitted. It's illegal to remove these, but right now new motorcycles do not require a cat if not fitted from the factory. I'm sure this will change in the future, but even when new bikes need cats mine will still be running legally without one.

The best thing to do is to speak to the guys at Whiteline. I did, and decided to go for the adjustables based on their advice. I'm glad I did. I had the front and rear set on the maximum, and I found it too easy to step the rear out around corners. Sure there was less body roll, but my cornering speed was lowered! I loosened them off a notch or 2 and now it's pretty much perfect. The non adjustables are thicker so I only imagine it would be worse than when I had mine set on the maximum. They would only be good for mirror smooth racetracks I reckon, where you wanted to drift rather than go fast around corners.

I think my stereo had been previously stolen when it was owned by the previous owner. My stereo was just sitting there not really held in by anything. When I replaced it with a better unit, I got a stereo shop to rig something up, and they did a pretty good job. They made a bracket out of metal and mounted it onto a wooden block. It also holds the tray under the stereo in place which was also floating around. It doesn't look like a work of art, but you can't see any of it when everything is in place anyway. And it cost 2 fifths of jack-all, they stuck to their original quote even after I asked them to fix it up, so it didn't take them very long obviously.

Ok I just got my cam gear in the post, so now it's time to set it up. Jay, you say that 1 degree on the wheel is 2 degrees on the CAS? So to get 4 degrees of retard in, I should move it 2 of those little lines? The other obvious question is which way is retard? Does the inner bit go clockwise or anti clockwise when looking from the front/adjustment side?

If you like. But keep in mind that engine flush is designed to remove built up deposits in your engine. Imagine what it does to the regular liquid oil. I have never used an engine flush and even with the dodgy mixing of different oil none of my engines have ever suffered for it.

I wouldn't run any sort of engine flush in my Skyline unless it was absolutely chock full of crap. Running a few thousand km on mineral oil isn't enough to warrant it. Just drain the mineral oil and run a good quality full synth. They have their own flushing compounds in them (detergents), but in a safe amount and at the correct ratio to not disolve the rest of the oil in your engine.

PHaT MR30, I've got the Motul 5W-40 in mine now and the car runs beautifully. I don't know if it's related to the oil change, but idling has improved a lot recently. At least I can deduce that it doesn't *harm* the idle at all, even if it doesn't improve it. How do you get a discount from Autobarn? Maybe we should do a group buy of some good oil.

Steve, did you O-ring it as well? Or do you think it's not necessary with the thicker gasket and lower compression?

You'll still have problems because GTR injectors are low impedance and GTS-t injectors are high impedance. The best thing to do is return or sell the injectors, and then get the right type. Or at the very least buy high impedance injectors if you want to run a new fuel rail. That will cut out one of the headaches.

I insured mine for $24500 agreed value (modified S1 R33). I expect this to drop considerably next year. One of the reasons why I'm thinking of getting a tracking device and buggering this whole insurance thing off.

So how's this for the queue then? DJ, me, Jay, C yar, DJ's passenger

I don't have a problem at all with people that don't know stuff. I am more than willing to give advice and help where needed, in fact I like helping people But you covered what I have a problem with in your second paragraph - if I'm not sure of something I'll either say I'm not sure or say nothing at all. I don't go around saying things as fact that are obviously incorrect.

I think you need to learn more about how cars work. Not to mention why exactly a GTR has more power than a GTS-t. (hint: it's not specifically because it has an extra turbo)

I sent the money over on Monday. It should definitely be there by now.

Sold to me!

It's been discussed before, but I can't find answers to my questions in a search, so here I go with a new thread. (security should remain a forefront topic anyway). The background story: I was all set to get a Brant alarm/immobiliser to replace my old paging alarm, which has a dead main remote (using spare atm). I rang Brant up for a price. It's $1000 for their Nemesis, or $650 for their AA02A which is essentially the same but with 3 immobilisers instead of 6. I was considering getting the cheaper model, mainly because (a) fuel pump cut is totally useless in R33's which has the battery next to the pump (just run a short wire), and (B) I didn't think it was worth the extra $350 for the extra 3 immobilisers all of which can be easily defeated with a tow truck. But then I found that it's an extra $150 for the window winder modules, and neither has a paging function or turbo timer, and I think and at this point I started to think that it was a bit of a rort. They may be the best alarm out there, but even the best alarm will not stop your car getting towed. Now onto the main subject Because of the above I am thinking to get a cheap (~$300 or less) paging alarm with 1-2 immobilisers, and then save up until I can afford tracking. Most of these cheapie alarms have all the good stuff like window winders and turbo timers and remote starts etc. The prime candidates are two paging alarms I found on Ebay, the Mannix Millennium and the Giordon 686. Both of these are dirt cheap ($150-$250 plus delivery) and seem to have all the good stuff with 1 immobiliser, which I'm sure could be rigged up with relays to cut more than one thing. If this relay is really hard to get to (ie, remove pieces of dash to install) then it should be virtually as good as 3 separate immobilisers. Does anyone know anything about these 2 alarms or any reason why I should steer clear? I'm not going to rely on the paging system, the main reason I like paging alarms is because of the screen they have which verifies the car's status at a glance. Please suggest better ones if you know of any, and where to get them. Until I can afford a tracking device I also want to install one of those mobile phone pager things. Oh yeah one more thing. Is there any reason to NOT cut power to your ECU with the immobiliser? I would like to cut power to at least one item in each section of the car (boot, cabin, and engine bay) to make it a total PITA for any potential thief to run power to everything I've cut.

That's still almost 10% off and around half the price of a second hand Commander. I would have said it's around $1100, not around $1000. If $100 is nothing then throw it my way

4WD is faster how exactly?

Wasn't it US$799? That's a fair bit more than $1000.

Hippy does it work from the driver's door switch? Mine was working fine from that but nothing else, ie, not the alarm or the actual driver's door lock (which is meant to control all others for locking/unlocking). Really odd because I thought it was on the same circuit as the extra switch but apparently not. While the guy was looking at it, it got into some weird-arsed half working mode where I could lock/unlock it once, but then it wouldn't respond for several minutes. I'm not sure if it was just time elapsed that let it work again or arming/unarming of the alarm or switching the ignition off/on. But now it's all good.

Hmm. Well I quoted the American part number to the Repco guy and it came up. There was no price though which is why he's gonna chase it up. I will ask him for the Australian part number if he gets back to me.