JimX

Is it just me or is this playing up for anyone else too? Before the server crash I wouldn't get around 50-80% of the email notifications that someone had replied to my subscribed threads. After the restore I have yet to get a single one. All my subscribed threads are still there in User CP, but I haven't got any emails. My email address is correct and works 100% for everyone else.

Any good quality silicon sealant should be good enough. Ordinarily with water seals you should use something which never sets, but since the parts need to be held together by this stuff you will need something which hardens enough to hold it together (but still stays soft enough to pull apart again)

Some more elaboration needed I pulled the dimmer out and tested it, it's all ok. I also plugged the wires back in directly rather than running them through the dimmer, just to eliminate it as a possibility anyway. That bit of wire is after the other bits which don't work - ie, if it was the dimmer, then the beeper, ignition light, etc would all still work. Obviously the dimmer is not going to make it beep less etc. The bit which measures 0.3V is where the dimmer goes. The turbo timer I'm guessing doesn't work because it needs a signal from the ignition switch that is somehow related to the now dead light and beeper. I'm pretty sure that once I fix this the turbo timer will start working normally again.

This probably isn't a common problem with an easy fix, but I thought I'd ask anyway. The other day my dash illumination lights died. It wasn't the dash itself because everything except the lights that come on with the headlights died. Also dying with it are the ignition key illuminator thing, the beeper which tells you the lights are on or you left the key in the ignition, and the turbo timer. Now when you switch the key to ACC it just goes off rather than into turbo timer mode. It's not a fuse, because I checked them all. I can't read the Japanese on the fuse cover so I've no idea which one it is - hence checked all of them. I found the wire that goes through the dash dimmer, and when the headlights are on it goes up to 0.3V instead of 12V, so I think it's just a wiring fault or possibly a loose or dead relay. Does anyone know where the aforementioned items get their juice from? The problem would be somewhere behind that. Even if someone could tell me what colour wire it might be I could go hunting myself.

It looks like the standard turbo to me, with plastic compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. Not sure what that orange stuff is, I've heard of some people getting orange plugs from some 98RON fuel and too-cold plugs, maybe it's related. They all get brown-rusty on the outside, but that's the first one I've seen that was orange on the inside.

If you want to upgrade your factory parts with new items you should probably go the aftermarket route - Bosch for the fuel pump, and... actually I think Bosch also make alternators The pump will need some mods to go in but the right pump should be cheaper, quieter, and flow better than a GTR pump. Alternators are all fairly standard, just try to find the amperage rating of yours (I've got nfi what the standard one is) and get something beefier, if you need it to be more powerful. Try to do a hardware/physical match with whatever you intend on replacing it with to make sure it'll mount ok.

Thrust bearings wear out, not really a sign of abuse. $300 to replace sounds normal as they have to drop the gearbox and remove the clutch (I think) to get at it. If you're doing this you may as well replace your clutch and possibly put in a lightened flywheel while you're at it.

The panel under the wheel is pretty easy to drop down, try to get in through there if you can. I presume your car came this way from Japan, or else you would be asking the guy that installed it

If I didn't have theft insurance I would definitely get a tracking device. The only reason I don't have one now is because my insurance won't give me any sort of discount to put one on so where's the incentive? If I had the spare cash I'd buy one.

At least it's just shutting the engine down rather than causing it to explode.

Mostly those two things, but a few other subtle differences - Added gauges to GTR Different bodykit/wing/front bar/badging Bigger fuel pump on GTR (bigger injectors etc taken as given on the different engine) Different gearbox (different ratios) Bigger brakes on GTR Different wheels (forged alloy on GTR I think as opposed to cast on GTS-t) Flared guards on GTR That's about all I can think of right now, I'm sure there's more but that's probably most of it. You can put an RB26DETT into a GTS-t without too many hassles. If you want the 4WD though, a better conversion is to drop one in to a GTS4, which has the same gearbox and 4WD system as a GTR. Either way you are probably looking at around $10k for the conversion including parts and labour, plus a lot of time off the road. It can be viable if you buy the original car cheaply enough at the time.

Hang on a minute, I thought Nissan separated the Skyline from the GTR as far as the name was concerned. Have they changed their minds again or have the news sites got it wrong? Either way Nissan Australia importing the GTR isn't good for anyone other than Nissan. It will just mean higher priced cars holding their value for longer, which is bad news for enthusiasts.

Could have just been a cruise. They probably ask the same thing when they see a bunch of Skylines together

Also check the AFM, could be faulty or have oxidised connectors. Give everything a good spray with some electrical contact cleaner.

You said you were using Castrol Formula R oil - that's probably the best way to clean your oil galleries. High quality full synth oil has a high amount of detergent in it which will help clean stuff out and prevent buildup afterwards. It's possible one of the reasons you had high oil pressure was because of the grade of oil you chose (10W-60) and hopefully it should come down a bit if you drop to a lower viscosity like 5W-40. The oil usage could be related to high oil pressure, you might have blown an oil seal in the turbo or something.

Ok, I've discovered the ONLY annoying thing about the PowerFC. It operates the fuel pump in high speed/pressure mode even at idle. I'm sure this is only to improve off-idle response, but the difference isn't worth the annoying groan of the 044 pump at idle. When driving the pump is quiet, but at a set of lights it's just embarrassing! (and bloody annoying as already mentioned). I've had a look through the Commander manual but I can't find anything to do with the fuel pump speed at idle. Does anyone know if such a setting exists? My only other solution is to never get caught in traffic

SOLD!

S-AFC tune usually takes around an hour. They tune the whole car, no other way to do it. You get a dyno printout. You will still have a stalling problem, nothing I know of other than a HKS idle controller will properly eliminate this problem. You might notice some improvement after the tune but it won't be perfect.

All been sold!!!

Well according to his signature, he's getting 10.4s quarters on stock internals. How I dunno But I would imagine that he's dicing with death even at that. Unless you put the engine on a motorcycle or something I would say that 9s quarters are impossible on stock internals, even for an RB26.

If you plan on running more than about 12psi or so they can be quite helpful in stopping gate creep. Or you can just get yourself a bunch of different bedsprings and make your own ghetto adjustable actuator by selecting the relevant one (my car came with one bedspring already attached).

Considering his engine is 500cc smaller than yours, I'd say he's doing better than you are I'm doing worse than the both of you, around 215rwkw @15psi, and with surging issues as well. I hope to sort it out with the PowerFC. It already seems better and it's not even tuned yet.

I installed mine the other day and slowly started giving it more and more stick, all the while watching the knock sensor carefully. So far it's never gone above 33 even after a decent thrash last night. Since the warning doesn't come on until 60 I'm guessing I'm more than safe, at least until the weather warms up. With moderate driving it never goes above 20 or so. Like Steve I've found the difference in power to be significant. The biggest difference is in throttle response off idle, which is now better than it was with a well-tuned S-AFC. Not much more power up top, but a bootful more in mid-range. I'm just going to run it like this until I can afford a tune, and then get it done just after putting the 550's in.

I've got an adjustable HKS actuator but I still use the EBC as well. That's because the actuator is just a spring, and as such doesn't really have a set "on" or "off". It just slowly opens as the pressure on the wastegate causes it to open. This is how you get wastegate creep, and the EBC helps stop this by keeping the gate closed when the spring wants to slowly open. I just set the actuator to the minimum boost I want to run (in my case 10psi or so) and then set the EBC to whatever I want to run at the time above this amount. This keeps the gate closed as tight as possible and lets the EBC do as little work as possible. Brand new these actuators are around $300, but probably a lot less from Nengun or Greenline, or in my case, second hand. In theory you could modify a standard actuator to do the same thing because it's just a thread with locknuts on the rod, but I think it'd be more effort than it's worth. The HKS spring is also stronger than the standard item, and that's virtually impossible to change.

Only $600 to get new synchros put in?! Where where!!! Yeah, most R33 boxes are crunchy/grindy/notchy. It is a tough box though, mine has been the same ever since I got it but it's still fine. It's actually pretty smooth once it warms up, except the occasional 4th->5th crunch.