JimX

Have you checked the engine mounts and bolts that hold the box to the engine? Even though the tailshaft was replaced, it might not have been balanced properly. Also did they use good quality universal joints?

S-AFC mounts with double sided tape so you don't have to worry about holes in the dash. But the stuff that it comes with is pretty crap, I replaced it with better stuff that didn't keep falling off. I mounted mine above my left knee under the dash. It looked really good there, like it was part of the dash.

If cheap is important then definitely get an auto version. They usually go for $2-5k less than their manual counterparts. Often you can do the manual conversion and still pay less than buying a manual to begin with, but you have to put up with the hassle of the car being off the road for awhile, plus the risk that it might not go 100% smoothly. As for fuel economy, if it's unmodified it should be pretty light on fuel whether it's an R32 or R33. I just turned in 12.6L/100km on my R33, 100% city cycle, and with the default ECU at 11psi of boost. This is also with a bigass Bosch pump on it so it's running pig-rich. This is much less than average though because I'm waiting for my PowerFC to arrive and I'm not flooring it very often - not enough power to bother wasting my efforts! When I was pumping out more power with the S-AFC, I usually got 13.5-14.5L/100km. I expect it to be up there again when I get my PowerFC, but hopefully with more power and a nicer shaped power curve.

Ring up some panel shops and ask. I've never had much luck with getting any of them to fix up small bits like that, they always want to re-spray the whole quarter and blend the paint in. Which is a fair call, apparently it's impossible to patch up metallic paint in such a small area and get it to be unnoticable. Since yours is black it might be easier to blend in.

Does that mean you can get the 0W-40 oil and filter for less than $60 together? Where from?

What's so good about these lights? Are they legal to fit here? How much do they cost roughly?

My Skyline ('95 model) doesn't have a delay on the interior light, but it does on the ignition switch. Later models might.

Ah well there you go. Now I have heard bad things about JUN

Ah doesn't matter. I made do without. In future I'll make sure I do all my work on Saturday to avoid this situation

Foshan, can you take a pic of yours in the car? I'm umm'ing and ah'ing over this, but if it looks good enough I'll probably get one. The last one might be sold by the time I make a decision but at least I'll know for the next time one comes along (or I can just get one from Greenline or Nengun )

Busky2k, good point. I'm guessing that a variable rev limit (ie, dropping it back below 7000 if held for more than a second or 2) isn't something a PowerFC is capable of doing? Not that I want to do burnouts

I thought it was directed at me, but it didn't answer the question

Um, yeah I know that. I'm talking about the difference between series 1 and 1.5. Is is something to do with black or silver surrounding the glass?

Even though maximum power wasn't an initial concern of mine (since I'm not likely to ever to be able to afford a 1000hp+ car), would it be safe to say that at <1000hp the PowerFC is better, and at >1000hp the Wolf is better?

If it was built in January '95, I'd say it's series 1. But check the engine anyway as Airzone said. Incidentally how do you know what month it was made? Mine just has the year on it, but I can tell I've got a series 1.5 by everything already mentioned here. Sewid, how do you tell from the headlights that it's a series 1? My headlights look pretty much the same to me. The boot badge is definitely series 1 but it could have been replaced with an older one after being stolen (I don't think this is the case though, I'm just saying it could be)

Oops sorry, I've got an R33 GTS-t. If postage is going to be sod-all then put me down for a rear as well (may as well do both at once).

Thanks for that. Now all I have to do is wait for the PowerFC to arrive. (where the hell is it?!)

Can I get some more details on the shift knob? You say it's the heavy version but diamond shaped, on that link the heavy version is round not diamond shaped? Also it's not real clear on the site if the heavy one uses small allen key type bolts to attach or if it screws on like the OEM version. If it's the lighter aluminium ones, these screw on like normal. I don't suppose anyone has any pics of what they look like in the car? It's hard to tell how big they are just by themselves.

Well, I have the aftermarket turbo already It's an old T04E though, so I'm not sure if that would run like crap past 7000rpm. The only real advantage of it over the stock item is the boost can safely be increase well past 14psi due to the steel wheels. Probably 18psi or so. It supposedly flows 450hp according to the previous owner but without the specs it's impossible to confirm. I can always experiment with different tuning once my PowerFC arrives, I guess my primary concern was on engine reliability.

Well of course Let me explain a bit better for the people that don't understand what goes on then. The hammer (actually rubber mallet for me) and socket extension is used to bash the plastic cap off the top of the tank. From there, you remove the bracket carefully with your hands (so your tank needs to be nearly empty before you do this otherwise you have to dip your hands in petrol - not good!!!) with the pump attached. You then remove the pump from the bracket, including undoing the wiring connectors with a small spanner. You then take the bracket over to your workbench and work on it with your cutters/hacksaw - this work takes place nowhere near the car! Unless you're stupid The soldering I think might have to be done in the boot - I can't remember anymore. Either way you're working with a nearly empty tank of fuel. As long as you don't dip your iron in the tank you'll be fine, it's not hot enough to set the fumes off by a long shot. You'd have more problems with your mobile phone igniting it (so keep it well away during this). Edit: I do realise that even a couple of litres of petrol igniting in your face is still going to cause you some serious grief. But it's still much less of a risk than a full tank. Just be sensible about it and it won't ignite anyway. Premium unleaded is pretty hard to set off.

Ok here's what my R33 GTS-t fuel pump says on the side: A42-T24 12V 002 5404D UNISIA JECS MADE IN JAPAN Underneath it says: 48 A42-201N05

I don't get what you're implying :confused:

I'm wondering if there is any benefit to increasing the rev limit to around say 7500 on a R33 GTS-t with stock internals. I'm mainly asking this because GTS-t VSPEC's car makes its peak power at 7200rpm, so I would have thought that there would be some benefit to increasing the redline if tuned properly. Will it significantly shorten the life of the engine to add on another 500rpm?

I think it's safe to say that even the cheapest option (2nd hand blue screen version 1 S-AFC) is good for 20-30rwkw or more on a stock or mildly modded Skyline (one guy recently got +60!). What's more important though is the shape of the power curve, the amount of power available down low and in mid range, response of the throttle, etc. My S-AFC gave me +30rwkw on its last tune. However it was entirely useless because after 5000rpm or so I got 2 mammoth dips in power, due to what I believe (and hope) was boost cut. I had a Fuel Cut Defender in the car but it wasn't wired up! I'm guessing the E-manage is more than capable of helping with all the above, but how well it does it compared with say, a PowerFC or Wolf would determine if it's good value or not. Although with an auto box your choices are somewhat more limited and the E-manage may be the best choice because of this. Even though it's more costly than an S-AFC2, it would have to be a better (but more expensive) option due to the extra harnesses.

My cooler was made by Mick's Metalcraft and I can't really fault it. Looks nice and shiny, doesn't have any noticable pressure drop, but that could just be a wide margin of error in my Autometer gauge. A setting of 1 bar on my EBC (which I think gets pressure reading from before cooler) reads about spot on 15psi on my boost gauge, which is actually higher than it should be. Yes there are better coolers, but I think it was really good value for the price. Can't remember the exact pricing because it was bundled in with lots of other work, but I think it was just under $1000 (600x300x75).