JimX

Holy crap, my question answered even before I asked it

Wow, where the hell did you get them that cheaply from!? I was considering getting the Falken ST115's which are around that price, but if I can get the FM901's for that I would seriously consider it. My only issue would be that aren't the FM901's discontinued? That would mean that when I had to change my rears, I wouldn't be able to get the same tread pattern as the front. Not a big issue I know, but I like my tyres to match Out of interest does anyone know how the FM901's compare with the ST115's? With regards to grip, tread wear, wet weather handling, etc. I assume the ST115's are quieter, which is one of their big selling points.

I've had a look with my Maglite and there is no gunk at the bottom of my tank. And as far as I know the factory pump doesn't run you out of fuel @ 56-57 litres as my first Bosch fitting did. I also had surge problems going around fast corners when low on fuel (well, with ~8 litres left?) with my first fitment which was how I could tell I was running out of fuel in the first place (maybe this is a good thing?!) The sock and filter are there to filter out gunk. Anything finer than what gets through those shouldn't be enough to completely block up an injector. Sure it will slowly clog them up over time, but that's what injector cleaning is for. Every car needs it at some point.

I can sympathise with wanting to get rid of ABS, particularly the reportedly inferior version on early 90's Japanese cars. It can sometimes come on in an unexpected way. If you maintain a level head you can outbrake a car with an ABS system, after you lose traction. I'll give you an example. Recently I was driving around a sharp-ish curve up to an unexpected red light. The car in front of me had slammed on his brakes and I had to do likewise. I wasn't going very fast (maybe 50kph?) but because of the curve, the short distance, and my shithouse front tyres, I managed to easily lock them up. As soon as it happened, I just backed off and re-applied properly and continued to pull up within ample distance of the car in front. If I had ABS, I think I would have had to rely on them to pull me up, as it's very difficult to do this when you have to contend with the computer trying to do the same thing as you. More than likely you will let your foot up too much and increase your stopping distance by a fairly large amount. That said, I'd like to have ABS on my motorcycle, because once you lock up the front you usually crash (as I have done several times). In this case I would rather have significantly increased stopping distances than dumping the bike on its side and sliding down the road (which won't slow you down as much as even a bad braking application).

I think that I am now the pump meister! I pulled it out again to see if I could hook up a longer bit of hose to pick up the fuel from lower. I couldn't find any shops with half inch fuel hose (Earl's has it, but they are closed on Sundays) so I had another look at the way it was mounted. I took the lower hose off and tried mounting the pump around 4-5cm lower on the bracket. This fit perfectly when I put it back in the tank/bracket slot, with the bottom tip of the pump almost touching the fuel tank as it narrows towards the front. So I bent the tip of the bracket up to give it some vertical support (it had none before), put the hose and sock back on in a foward-left direction and put the bracket with pump attached back in. Not only did it all still fit, but I was actually able to shove the bracket further down into the slot due to reasons unknown (more muscle?). Originally I had it in about halfway, but now it's about 3/4 or 5/6 the way in and much more secure. If anyone has any questions about fitting their Bosch pump, let me know and I'll do my best to answer. I reckon it's something everyone can do at home in a couple of hours with standard tools. ie, pliers, heavy duty side cutters or hacksaw, simple electrical stuff (solder, iron, terminals etc), screwdrivers, hammer and socket extension (to get lid off), etc. The results of refitting are: Fuel being picked up from much lower now (so it should run out of fuel much later than before, which was at around 8 litres left previous). Fuel pump noise is a little more but more consistent, because it's now touching the side of the tank, but not moving around as much (if at all). Previously it would kind of "groan" when low on fuel, now it just whines at the same pitch empty or full, except when idling (very quiet). Did we actually cover the full installation procedure in the other thread about this a few months ago? If not I might do a complete write-up. If Tony wants me to do his I'll even be able to take photos (I ain't getting my pump out again just to take photos).

I've only heard good things about JUN. In fact I've heard of people making their own home-made cam gears and re-labelling them as JUN, because they look kind of similar. ie, not bright pink and green like HKS which would obviously not be the same as a modified factory one.

Why is it such a crippling blow to have to upgrade your AFM? And besides that, there was a guy here with a 300rwkw R33 (I think it was Mattlowth) who was using the factory AFM. Tuning the car past the AFM's resolution isn't impossible, just more difficult. I'd like to say "POWER FC'S ROCK" to keep it even, but then we'd getting into that whole "My dad can beat up your dad" thing

I don't want to burst your bubble, but the HICAS is factory standard Also, be wary of the "untouched" engine, it's not uncommon for mildly modded cars to be returned to stock before selling. You can make more money on them that way usually. I wouldn't worry either way though, the engine and gearbox are bulletproof.

I've got one in the garage I can go look up for you, but it's pouring rain outside! If I remember I'll go take a look tomorrow night. Pm me if I forget.

I would have lent you mine if it had arrived from Japan yet. By the time it gets here it'll probably be too late.

Yeah what's this about freeloading on the delivery charge? Pay your share!

Does anyone know of any performance shops that are open on Sundays in Sydney? Earl's is closed. I don't like my chances for today, but I'm hoping there's at least one for future reference.

Usual drivetrain loss for a front wheel drive car of around that power is usually around 15-20%. So at a guess I would say it's got around 90-100kw at the crank? It looks fairly new, you could probably even go off the factory spec for a pretty close estimate.

Bah. Sif you'd change one absurd unit of measure for an even more absurd one

More map sensors?! :confused: As for which has more functions and features, maybe you should read through that thread I quoted above, especially the posts by Sydneykid. (btw, don't get back to me if you can't find a Wolf, I'm not the one selling the PowerFC )

If you are wiring it up and find spots without wires, you are looking at the plug the wrong way around!

That's gotta be my worst nightmare - to have an accident with a Camry and then have the aftermath dealt with by ****wit clueless cops. Good luck in getting this sorted.

You'd want to have a lot of faith in your Wolf's tuner, because there is no knock sensor warning. At least with the PowerFC you will get warning by the way of the dash light (or you can monitor the exact readings with the hand controller if you have one) and if it increases in hot weather, just richen it up and/or decrease the timing slightly. I haven't heard of anyone blowing up their RB25 due to hot weather combined with a PowerFC. It's probably happened, but rare enough that I don't think it's a major concern as long as it's tuned right. As Emre said, generally speaking the settings you cannot change with the hand controller are usually pretty well spot on.

If the problem has fixed itself then your engine is definitely fine It sounds like an intermittent contact in your AFM (Air Flow Meter). This is the thing just behind your air box, it measures how much air is going into your engine. Unplug the small wiring connectors and spray with some electrical contact cleaner (get it from Jaycar), plug it back in and try again. Also spray the AFM filament with the contact cleaner. Do a search on cleaning the AFM for more detailed instructions.

No idea. I would have considered a 2nd hand Wolf myself but no one's selling them. Out of interest why do you think the Wolf is better? What are you going to use the car for?

I think toe should be 0 on the front. Rear can be +1 or so. I could be wrong, I can't remember where I saw those figures. I don't know if 1.5mm of toe is enough to cause feathering.

Try one of the better brands where you're not paying for the name, like Michelin, Falken, Kumho, etc. Simex or Nankang if you're really on a budget (they're pretty good for cheap tyres). Do a search for specific models, it's been covered numerous times

Tony, nolathene bushes won't make the ride uncomfortable - the hard Jap springs are already perfect for doing that As blind_elk says, swaybars are perfect for improving handling without affecting ride comfort. What they basically do is link your left and right suspension arms together. As the outside suspension arm travels upwards in a corner, it pushes the swaybar upwards as well. The swaybar then transfers some of this upwards movement to the inside suspension arm, and the net result is that the outside arm compresses less, and you get less body roll through the corner. Skylines (and most other cars) already have swaybars, but they're not very thick. Whiteline have stiffer/thicker bars, which do the job better. You usually need a bit of bodyroll though, otherwise your inside wheels will start to lift off mid-corner. Happens to the Bathurst V8's fairly often.

I'm in for at least a front provided freight is <$20 or so. If freight is the same for 2 then I will probably also grab a rear.

Are you serious? Have a read of this thread.