JimX

Goodyear at Castle Hill do a fantastic 4 wheel alignment with lasers, and it only costs $60. They are familiar with Skylines too, they can get it up on the ramps even if you have a really low front bar (like I do ) It's a major hike even for me but they're open Saturdays and worth the effort.

Bigger injectors will *definitely* overfuel with the stock ECU, even moreso than if putting in a bigger fuel pump. You should at the very least get a piggyback ECU to fix it (S-AFC or E-manage or the like)

To fix mine I got it 4-wheel aligned with lasers If yours was done properly then there's probably something wrong with your suspension.

Yep, Kristian's is a very good deal. I ordered mine off him even before he advertised it

I managed to squeeze the tube in a few millimetres, but if it pops out I'll try your hot water suggestion. Thanks! Hehe, if anyone with the same problem is worried about getting dust in their engine before they get a chance to fix it, just keep the turbo on boost all the time to keep the dust out

If it's the same as R32 and R33 (which I think it is) then it's measured in 100's of millimetres of mercury. That means when it's at +7, the manifold pressure is at 13.5psi or so. The needle goes above 7 though, so you could probably make a semi-educated guess at the pressure up to 15 or 16psi or thereabouts. If you don't have an EBC and want to set your bleed valve, then you should probably install a decent quality boost gauge. At least temporarily.

$50 each second hand is the going rate for coils. Also, I think a gap of 0.5 or 0.6 is way too small for stock boost. Even 0.8 seems to be ok for up to around 14psi. NIZR34GTT, the problem probably got worse with platinums because they have the weakest spark of all the plugs. It's probably just amplifying a problem with your coils.

Yep definitely could be coil packs, it's just hard to understand exactly what the problem is going off a written description which is why I suggested AFM. Also I just noticed you said it's getting worse, if it's AFM then it's all or nothing (ie it won't get any worse). Check your coil packs too. Worst case it's your rings or something, in which case you should probably look at your state of tune because they probably shouldn't just go like that with regular driving.

In my glovebox all I've got is a street directory, a pen, the smallest disposable camera I could find, and a digital tyre pressure gauge, 1 or 2 mp3 CD's not in their cases (cases won't fit) and it's full! I've been meaning to move most of that stuff to the centre console, which is currently full of crap. But the street directory won't fit anywhere else, not even down the door pockets. I guess I could leave it under the seat or something, ghetto style.

If the car starts and idles ok then it's probably your AFM. Check for a loose plug for a start, that is hopefully all it is. I had the same symptoms when I accidentally yanked out my S-AFC wiring loom, thus causing the AFM to become disconnected. Not sure if the HICAS has anything to do with it, mine never came on when I had this problem.

jlnewton - just dust up your rear wheels so they match front to back and never clean any of them

I thought the Ecotec has sequential injection, where the Holden V8 (as used in VN-VS) does not. Well, I was told by my mechanic at the time that those V8s use batch fire, I can't remember where I read about the Ecotec being sequential. I could be wrong about both.

I bought a set of 550cc side feed injectors, but I'm not sure what they are. The seller didn't know either but assured me they were 550cc. Can someone let me know what they are? They've got purple/red tops and what looks like a tiny Nissan logo on them, so small that the word "Nissan" doesn't fit (ie, it's a circle with a square either side). The part numbers say OF555425 and A46-90. On the screen in the middle it says "MADE IN JAPAN" and "JECS".

Toe angle can be a major culprit here. Negative camber will affect tyre wear slightly, but not nearly as much as bad toe. I wore mine down to the steel belts before I noticed! I was keeping an eye on the outside edges of my tyres which was still almost brand new, then when I took my car in for tuning, my mechanic said "you know about your tyres being worn down to the belts don't you?" "NO!?" Had a look when it was on the hoist, fark!!!!! The front tyres had gone from new to dangerous in about 8000km. It could also be worn suspension bushes (causing your toe to fluctuate). How are they doing your wheel alignment? With lasers or strings? And are they doing a 4 wheel alignment or just front?

Oh yeah definitely. Slots will carve up your pads quicker than normal so you'd get more dust with them. I feel sorry for anyone with Ultimates and slotted rotors, probably need to clean their wheels by the time they get to the top of their driveway!

It's not so much a failing as a marketing ploy designed to make Apexi more money so they'd probably view it as a success Hopefully the Datalogit thing will help alleviate this situation. No it's not perfect, but a step in the right direction for the end-user's wallet I think. Joel, the Wolf wouldn't fire 2 injectors twice, what it would probably do on a 6 cyl engine is fire 2 injectors sequentially, then batch fire 2 lots of 2 at the same time. So it might squirt something like this: injector 1 when cylinder 1 needs fuel, injectors 2 and 3 when cylinder 2 requires fuel, injectors 4 and 5 when cylinder 4 requires fuel, then injector 6 when cylinder 6 needs fuel. (my numbers used in this example are almost certainly wrong due to firing order). That's still a step up from how my VS Commodore fired the injectors, which was all at once!!! Almost defeats the purpose of having fuel injection, because that's essentially how a carburettor works.

Hehe, that reminds me of the time I went to Midas to get my discs machined and one of the guys there referred to them to another guy as "those really huge discs".

Nah it's some new aftermarket hose that (unnamed workshop) used when reconnecting the boost gauge that I ripped off my steering column as soon as I got the car. I didn't have a problem with it being on the steering column, except it was blocking too much of my tacho because it was too big. It's now in the much more sensible A-pillar location. The only problem with the hose is it's too small for the last t-piece going into the plenum. I think my engine will be ok for dust. It's only been doing this for the past week or so (driven 2-3 times) and I haven't been driving through any dust storms. If anything the recent rains have kept the dust to a minimum. But I'm definitely going to keep a closer eye on it in future.

BuzLightyear, there is a psychological "100 000km" barrier which is sure to cause late model cars in the auction yards to go for a few hundred thousand yen less than those with less than 100k. This applies less to earlier model cars, so when you get down to a 15 year old GTR it might only translate to a few hundred bucks. You can get your wheel re-leathered at a few shops, usually the ones that do car interiors. I priced one a few years ago and I think they quoted me around $150? The price has probably gone up since then. Make sure you get really good quality leather though, I've heard stories of people re-covering their wheel and the leather never lasting as long as the factory stuff (which is actually very good quality).

Depending on the car, the S-AFC can give you up to 60rwkw. Someone in these forums got that much out of it anyway*. A more usual amount is 20-30rwkw (I got +15 on my first tune, and +30 later after some more mods myself). A PowerFC should be good for a few ponies more, although I think the bigger advantages of the PowerFC are giving you a smoother power curve with more power earlier, and the other advantages that a replacement ECU gives (temp compensation, better idle, better handling of bigger injectors, etc). They are the main reasons I'm upgrading anyway, rather than for outright extra power. I would leave the PowerFC last on the above list, but put the S-AFC first or second. Then when you get up to the PowerFC on your list, sell the S-AFC * - That's an indication of how bad his power was before the tune, not some magical double power increase over everyone else with the same mods after tuning.

Woot! Found it. The hose on one of the t-pieces had huge split because basically it wasn't wide enough to go on. It was permanently under stress and so eventually split. I'm looking at using some small plastic hose as a go-between for the t-piece and hose. Should be ok from here. Thanks again for your help guys. Edit: Tested car, all works fine. Hope the split in the hose didn't suck too much dust into the engine!

Thanks for the info, we seem to have it nailed down then. In fact I'm gonna go take a look right now and see what I can find!

Sydneykid, does the RB25 have air temperature sensors for PowerFC temp compensation? If so, are the settings too conservative for our hot summers? And does the RB25 have 1 or 2 knock sensors? (and likewise does the PFC read from both if it has 2)

When I got my car it only had 150rwkw @11psi. S-AFC tune took it up to 166rwkw (it's now around 215rwkw @14psi and leaning out if anyone cares). It depends on the dyno, but I think it'd be a very friendly one to give a totally stock Skyline 160rwkw. Most are around 140-150. I'm just letting you know this in case you do some light mods and only end up with around 160rwkw. It can be perfectly normal to have less than this when stock, is all I'm saying.

DaiOni, thanks for that. My car had 85000km on it when I got it, and based on its condition I'm 99% sure that it hasn't been wound back. Even if it has, it's got 100k km on it now and still in much better condition than many other cars with 100k on it.