JimX

Holy crap, that is one of the lowest things I've ever seen someone admit to, and the most incorrect conclusions drawn from it. I have never heard anything bad said about Greenline or Nengun, apart from some delays with Greenline when Simon had some medical problems. But that's fully understandable. I bought an S-AFC from Nengun around a year ago and it arrived pretty quickly. Cost me around $550 including shipping, which was about $200 less than I could find it locally. In retrospect I would have saved some more money if I bought second hand, but live and learn. I also got an Apexi pod from him which was around $90 including shipping, and that is still a damned good price even today. Some local shops sell them for as much as $400.

Pentae, the only wanker I can see here is you. Why do you care so much what other people do to their cars? I personally don't like GTR badges on GTS-t's, but if someone wants to do it, I won't care or abuse the owner because of it. I also don't like loud PSSSHT bov's, but I have an atmo bov myself because it came with the car. It only goes off under hard revs though, just driving normally you can't hear it and I like it that way. Also, you need to learn a bit more about how bovs actually work. If you remove it completely, you can get a fluttering noise out of your air filter as the air bounces off the throttle body and gets chopped up by the turbo on the way back out. Does this sound also make the car owner a wanker? You really need to show more tolerance because if you ever go on a cruise you're likely to get into an argument with half the car owners there that have bovs.

How is it racist? You don't even know my ethnicity, nor which "race" I was commenting on. For the record, I wasn't commenting on any specific race (in fact the question left the answer open to "Australian", maybe I should have left the word "minority" out) and I am not of white Australian decent myself. I will admit that I think a gang of white Australians would be the least likely type of people to carry out such an act. If the gang was Aussie I will be surprised, but I'm not saying it would be impossible.

So after you moved the coilpacks around, it was all ok? How do you think moving them fixed it?

Anyone know what ethnic minority these thieves were?

Exactly! All of these cars are fast enough when stock to be considered "fast", and they modify generally easily and fairly cheaply (300ZX may be an exception due to V engine). About the only thing that you could say is "better" about some is that the lighter ones (180SX, Silvia) will get more bang per buck from performance mods, because of lesser weight. The 300ZX being the heaviest obviously gets the least value from its mods, with the Skylines somewhere in the middle. But they can all be made to be bloody fast, so I don't know why so many people care so much how fast they are from the factory.

Don't kid yourself into thinking that road tuning is better than dyno tuning, it isn't

They aren't particularly prone to it, but it sounds like a fairly common condensation problem that can affect any car. Check the coil pack wiring, maybe take it off and use some emery to remove oxidization and spray some wd40 in. Check the igniter too if you have one (early series 1).

I'm not sure, I had a quote of around $100 done by someone about 3 times removed and I never ended up doing it, I used some of that stop leak stuff to fix mine. Ask your mechanic, he should be able to give you some idea of who does them and how much they cost.

I think that a lot of people buy a car based on stock quarter mile times. Or at least, that's what they say in here. I find that mode of choice dubious at best.

1. To fit springs: Jack up car, drop strut assembly out. Take top off strut, remove spring, put new spring in, re-assemble. Put strut back in car, repeat for other corners. You may or may not need a spring compressor. In my experience I haven't needed one, but others say that they do. Keep it in mind before you start. 2. Do you mean paint the calipers? Coz if you paint the rotors the brake pads will just grind the paint straight off If you want to paint the calipers, do a search. Someone has already done it and they've got a brief step by step. 3. Toe should be 0 degrees front, and 0 or 1 degree in rear depending on how you want the car to drive. Keep in mind that bad toe alignment is the worst thing for tyre wear, moreso than bad camber. But I'm not sure if 1 degree is going to make a noticable difference to tyre wear or not.

I'd like to help but I'm not really knowledgable of the whole boost control setup. My car came with an electronic boost controller, and one vacuum line from it goes to the actuator. I haven't looked thoroughly enough to see where the other lines go. Your description of the actuator sounds right, if that's of any help. Sorry I couldn't help any more!

Might just need reconditioning, cost around $100 I think. A new one would be over $400 from Nissan for sure. Is the fluid level ok? Might just be a bit low.

Is the GTR pump in the same place as on a GTS-t? If so, it's mounted on a bracket. The pump is way down, but look at the brass thing it's mounted on. Follow it up and see where it clips into the front of the fuel tank. Grab the top and lift it up and out. Make sure you don't rip any wires or hoses off while you are doing this.

Stock engine can generally handle around 18-20psi or so, which is more than the factory turbo can provide. Also depending on the turbo, there is a cutoff in its efficiency where more boost doesn't generate any more power.

I would be taking the car back to where you got the head repaired.

I don't think it would be a bearing, usually they will make constant noise. Normally squeal on startup is a slipping belt. Whether due to glazing or being too loose. Check the belt tensions.

I haven't done anything with mine yet I'm waiting for the PowerFC to arrive, and then I'll see if I can tune the flat spots out. If so then my wastegate must be ok. But I won't know for the next week or 2 at the very least.

Yes, got FMIC. That would be the best next step for you too.

Does it really matter? They can each be modded off their tits to beat any of the others, just depending on how much money you want to throw at it. That's why I bought the car that I like best for reasons other than how fast it is down the 1/4 mile. And the mods that it came with made it faster than any of the aforementioned when stock. So in theory I got the best of both worlds

I have a T04E. Flows a little better and can run higher boost than stock due to steel wheels but as such suffers from a bit more lag (it's really not bad at all though). In theory I should be able to hit 250rwkw with it but I'm not too sure the exhaust housing is big enough in its current form.

You can road tune an S-AFC, but you probably won't get the optimal power out of it. You just have to make sure you don't run it too lean. But if you can get it done for $80, don't waste your time doing it yourself. $80 is nothing, I paid double that. Also grimr33per, all those mods are fine to run with the stock fuel system, so don't assume that your car has bigger injectors. My car had a similar setup and managed 214rwkw before leaning out. You pretty much need those mods *before* you bother with a bigger pump or injectors, so the previous owner hasn't just riced it up. Edit: as for identifying the injectors, I haven't had a good look at mine yet but I think they don't have red/purple tops Also if you have a custom fuel rail for top-fed injectors they aren't stock.

Two stock turbos will be able to be provide more boost to one engine because they're only feeding half the engine. Thus lower RPM on the turbo to provide the same boost. Since it's speed and not boost which kills the ceramic wheels it should be possible to get 18psi out of each turbo. Whether it's worth the effort or not is another thing. Croat, there are plenty of guys here running more than 12psi all day everyday on a stock engine without any problems. I'm one of them

Yes, iridium surprisingly

I've got iridiums in mine (0.7 gap I think) and they have never missed a beat.