JimX

I want to avoid responding to everything to save an argument, but I will respond to the above. I do it all the time in both my car and motorcycle. If I didn't, I would have dropped the bike a lot more than I have in the last 2 years (none). I've never hit anything other than the road on my bike. I've also never hit a pedestrian or had an accident in my car, ABS or not. Unless you count accidents with footpaths and gutter rash on wheels. But then I think ABS would only help me there if I was trying to park the car Blues Brothers style The fact that I have dropped the bike several times in the past prior to around 2 years ago, and ABS has never saved me from hitting anything in the car, makes me think it'd be more important to have on a bike than in a car. (knock on wood for all the above!) Even if ABS saved me from having an accident tomorrow, I still wouldn't regret not having it in some of my previous cars. If it helped on a weekly basis, then I might have a re-think.

sent pm!

That's one hell of a long month!

Bloody hell, way to get off topic, me! Sorry about that guys

What are you doing cornering under brakes?! It's not about "beating" ABS, it's moreso that ABS promotes sloppy braking and "takes over" a proper brake and you end up with a mish-mash of stopping power with your foot and the ABS fighting for control. People generally tend to stand on the brakes and let the ABS do its work. I drove my Commodore with ABS like this, and I found that it would kick in and out several times a second, and it was really not a very smooth brake. The Commodore's ABS was quite easy to "beat" by braking properly, as in holding it just before the point of losing traction and where the ABS kicks in. I don't know if the GTR's ABS is any better, it's probably the same since I think all the units were made by Bosch back then (mid 90's). But the harshness could have also been due to the shitty small calipers on the Commodore, and maybe an inferior processor. Perhaps I should stand on the GTR's brakes and see what happens But as it is I just feel like I'm fighting it when I want to come to a quick stop (for fun, not emergencies). I can't tell if it's me or the ABS that's unlocking the skid. I've been driving for about 18 years now, and I can count on one hand the amount of times that ABS would have been helpful in an emergency, in a car. And all of those were within my first few years of driving, when I didn't have the road craft to foresee hazards as well as I do now. If the roads are slippery and I can't see far enough ahead, I slow down. I guess it can be good to have ABS when the road gets unexpectedly slippery, but I can't remember the last time that happened. On the most part it just seems unnecessary, like having a parachute for in case I ever accidentally drive off a cliff. Motorcycles are a different story. I have dumped the bike about 5 times (most of them while learning) and all but one were due to locking up the front wheel from too-sudden front wheel braking. This was mostly due to the bad habits I picked up in the car from "slamming" the brakes on and letting the ABS do its work in the Commodore. If I had ABS on the bike I wouldn't have crashed most of those times, but I'd still probably be slamming the brakes on all over the place. After practicing the proper technique on the bike, I do the same thing in the car now. I wish the bike had ABS though, because by the time you lock the front wheel, the last thing on your mind is worrying about whether or not you can stop any quicker. I just want to stay upright! If you're in a real emergency on a bike, maintaining the brake pressure to as to not cause a lock is probably the MAIN concern, otherwise down you go! Ah, I dunno. I'm just basing my opinions on my memories of my old shitty Commodore ABS. A modern ABS system in a BMW would probably be transparent to me and I'd love to have it for those ultra rare emergencies. Maybe the GTR's is somewhere in between so I'll come to appreciate it in time.

Someone's removed your ABS (most likely to sell) because I can't see why anyone would want to relocate it. Especially if as you say there is now a space where the ABS used to be. Why remove it if you don't need the space? I personally don't care for ABS. It's usually better to get really good grippy tyres and learn how to brake properly, unless you're driving on a lot of slippery roads all the time. My new car has ABS which I didn't really want, but I'm not going to remove it because it would just devalue the car since it had them from the factory. I drive as if it didn't have them (ie, if wheel locks I back off a bit and squeeze brakes again) but when the ABS kicks in it makes it harder to do this. Probably for the same reason why HICAS can make it harder to steer the car when on the edge of traction.

The only place I found that had caliper kits was Race Brakes, and they were $20 per half caliper, so $80 for the front. If you know where to get them for half that then let us all know! I agree that rebuilding brakes is good too. For some weird reason I always trust the job when I do it. You don't need bigger brakes to pull up quicker. If you can lock the wheels with your present brakes then they are big enough, unless they've overheated. Your tyres are more important than the brakes for hauling up quick. My GTR has shit tyres and the stopping distance is ridiculous even though it has Brembos. The biggest advantages that bigger brakes have is being able to dissipate heat better (less fade) and being easier to control the locking point of (larger diameter=more leverage). Personally, I think the standard 4 pot GTS-t brakes are great. About 6 months ago I installed new DBA4000 rotors and RB74 pads (front only) with Falken FK451 tyres all round and it was one of the quickest stopping cars I've ever been in. The GTR has shithouse Wasabi compliance tyres or something stupid, and even though I've never experienced brake fade, it's much easier to lock up the wheels. I can't wait for them to wear out so I can fork out another $1200+ for good tyres that I can't afford As for brake fluid, Caltex GP600 is one of the best value ones you can get for street and mild track use. It's only Dot 4, but it has higher temperature tolerance than some dot 5's and doesn't have squishy silicone in it. Minimum boiling point is 300 degrees C, minimum wet boiling point is 195 degrees.

I had the HICAS light come on when driving the car home along the freeway after about 5 or 10 minutes, and it didn't go off until after I got home and switched off, even after getting off the freeway and into stop-start traffic. I topped up the power steering fluid which was below the low mark, but the steering was never heavy before or after. I haven't had the problem since, but also I've never travelled as far at highway speeds yet. Also my steering wheel is off-centre but I would think if that's an issue the light would still come on regardless.

I've had this happen to some extent on every car I've ever owned except for one. I suspect it's a combination of things, because new wheels and tyres in the past have improved it drastically but not cured it, and gradually the problem would come back to varying extents. The worst it's been has been due to outright warped wheels which balancing can't fix. But you can fix warped wheels even though I never did, I usually replaced them or put up with it. I think also it could be due in part to a slightly off-centre axle, caused by crappy bent wheels. I think what might happen is that after a wheel gets bent due to a pothole or the like, it will now continuously put strain on the axle in that one spot on each revolution of the wheel. After thousands of km's like that, it might start to permanently bend the axle in that direction. Only very slightly, but enough to notice at highway speeds. I don't know for sure though, because steel is fairly elastic and it might not be enough to do it permanently under normal circumstances. It's just a theory. The only car that's never done it is my GTR, which is the only car that has had forged alloy wheels. Also my motorcycles had alloys and never did it but its axles were usually supported on both sides. The VFR800 single sided swingarm was the exception but the axle was still very short and strong. So on a bike it'd be harder to bend the axle and even if you did you wouldn't notice it as much.

I will definitely take the front bar and side skirts if still available, also do you have the front bar mounting behind it? I will take that too if so I will confirm by pm. Also I will definitely take the wheels, and possibly with the tyres if I can scrape up enough cash soon enough. I don't suppose you'd be willing to part trade for 18x8.5's?

Have you got the rear right quarter panel? Obviously involving some cutting and slicing to remove. From around the bottom of the rear windscreen to the guard and tail light. Also any front end panels or sub structure? (Radiator and bumper support etc)

SK did a write-up of how he runs in engines. I don't have the link handy (do a search) but basically he does a single run from Sydney to Bathurst again, and once he's back the engine is run in properly. Not just cruising up the freeway, you need to check the details. It sounds like fun to me, I'll most likely do it myself should I ever do a rebuild.

You seem to have left the washer bottle on the list, so I will offer to buy it again I can still DD the money immediately, but you can post it whenever is convenient for you.

Does anyone know how to remove the series 2 R33 airbag wheel? I only need to remove it to put it on straight. I would normally just get a wheel alignment place to do it along with an alignment, but it steers very straight and I have crap tyres so if it's out of alignment I will use that as a method to wear them out quicker So far I have discovered 2 large security style star bolts under 2 small plastic covers, do these hold the horn button on or are there other bolts behind the steering cowl or elsewhere? If I need to remove the 2 security bolts, where would I buy the socket for it?

I will take the brake cylinder stopper if it will fit in the same package as the GTS indicators I'd also like to buy off you

I will take the indicators, can you please give me a total including postage to Sydney and your bank details and I will DD the money asap.

I will take the washer bottle, please pm me your bank details with how much postage to Sydney will be (another $10 should cover it?) and I will DD the money asap.

Everything is now sold, people please check the first post and stop pm'ing me. Why are people pm'ing me with offers on the PowerFC anyway when they haven't read the first post? If they read the first post they'd see I wasn't separating the hand controller even while it was still for sale.

Series 1 or 2 doesn't matter but of course the bonnet needs to match the rest of it. Prefer series 1 though because that's what it's replacing and should hopefully be cheaper. If nose cut isn't available, then I would need the radiator support area on the right side up to the front of the right strut tower, and a front bar with the supports, right headlight and blinker assembly, etc. In that case it'll need to be series 1 to match the other undamaged headlight.

Thanks for that, I'll try swapping them tonight and write up about any issues. But if Nismo have the same part number for both then they must be the same.

I think they are because of the ones I've seen, but does anyone know for sure if the fuel pressure regulators are the same between all Skylines? Specifically R33 GTS-t and GTR. I assumed they were different because the fuel pumps are different, but I had a look the other day and the one in the GTR looks surprisingly like the one I remember in the GTS-t.

I don't have the manual handy, but an important function is locking of the keypad, which I think it the top button on the side, followed by the left button on the front. I can't remember what letters they are though. Also the bottom button on the side followed by the left button on front shows the temperature of the cabin, and holding the left front button lights up the display and plays a little "i'm ok" tune for checking it in the dark. To swap between vibrate and noise mode, I think you hold the bottom side button down for 2 seconds. Perhaps the top. But I know that one of the buttons held down for 2 seconds sets off the panic alarm, so trial and error and make sure you do it someplace that you won't get mistaken for a car thief

Hey Mark, thanks for replying and indeed coming back to the forum, it's a great place! I'm not too sure it has a vacuum leak now, because even though the factory boost gauge is disconnected and the aftermarket one is not set up properly (long story, basically neither reads the correct bosot) the boost controller seems to read a constant reliable -0.5 bar of boost at idle, which is what my last car did with exact same model boost controller (Greddy Profec) and idle is otherwise smooth and not fluctuating. I haven't cleaned or adjusted the AAC valve yet but from other people's posts I'm not holding much hope for that to fix it. Although for a small minority of people it did work so I will get to it tomorrow. I will also try disconnecting the brake and clutch boosters, thanks for the tip!