JimX

You can work out how much flow you'll get almost exactly with some simple maths. Multiply the radius (1/2 diameter) by Pi to get the area which equates to how much it'll flow. For example: Exhaust Area (x2) diameter" sq" 2.5 4.91 9.82 2.75 5.94 11.88 3 7.07 14.14 3.5 9.62 19.24 4 12.57 25.14 (ha!) So as Nxtime showed above, 2x2.5" exhaust has nowhere near the flow of 1x4" pipe.

There's a type of Araldyte which is more resistant to higher temperatures, and designed for use in hot areas like an engine bay. I forget what it's called exactly but I did buy some when trying to fix my coilpacks and the rest of it is in my cupboard at home somewhere. It didn't help at all so I bought Splitfires, but the epoxy did hold up pretty well when the engine was warm. Obviously since it didn't work for me it's not a guaranteed fix, but I think it's still worth a shot since it only cost $12 or something from a hardware store.

Seconded on the Motul on all accounts, I use the 8100 5W-40 myself. However... If you are changing from another brand or if this is your first oil change, you *may* want to do an engine flush once, because Motul dissolves a lot of sludge on its own. When I swapped from a crappier brand to Motul after about a year, it dislodged a fair amount of sludge and blocked a lifter and the car wouldn't start due to loss of compression. I towed it to my mechanic (I didn't know what was wrong) and he then had to run an engine flush through it to fix it. He suspected that it might have been a failed lifter but once flushed properly it never had any problems. Running Motul from then on has kept it clean and running really well.

The air after the intercooler is invariably hotter than the air coming into the airbox, unless you've got some sort of refrigerator as an intercooler!

GCG quoted me $600 for a new 0.82 rear housing last week.

I will take it! Please pm me with how you want the cash, COD or DD or what. Postage is to Sydney. Thanks!

Thanks for the info. I had another look over the pics of the cooler setup and realised that even if it was possible, it'd be overly complicated for no real benefit other than saving a bit of hose and space, because I'd have to do something with the factory oil filter outlet, or just run 2 oil filters. Both of which are going to be more of a headache than it's worth. Also it'd be nigh on impossible to quickly remove the cooler for whatever reason and keep the car drivable, since the fittings will be all wrong and hoses may not reach anymore. I just had some crazy idea in my head without checking reality. Sorry about that!

Can I have pics as well? [email protected]

Good point, I've already got a custom steel setup but no way will it fit to a new high mount. I was thinking of just rigging up the factory rubber intake which I still have until it gets to the workshop to have a new one made up or the old one modified. I ran my Q45 AFM with cloth tape to it before I got the adapter made up, shouldn't be a problem just for testing the car without driving. Towing is looking to be safer at this point.

Hehe that'd be like having the screamer pipe constantly on. That'd be fun to do on a day when the cops are on strike, just drive around all day sounding like a racing car but only doing 30kph. Sounds like a good plan to get the dump pipe on first anyway though, if nothing else I could start the engine up to make sure everything's working whether or not I drive it loudly like that or get it towed. Hope my climate control recirculate mode works!

Mine too ran out of puff at 18psi. I don't know what specs it is, but it seems to be somewhat "normal", supposedly flowing up to 400-450hp. My turbo is quite old (best estimate 50k km or so) and doesn't have the 360 degree thrust bearing. The tuner tuned it for 18psi but it was leaking a fair bit of oil through the seals at that point, so we backed it right off after the tune until I either rebuild the turbo or replace it. I'm going for the latter option at the moment. On the plus side, even when it blows some smoke when I have the hammer down, the oil level still never drops noticably between oil changes. Doesn't take much oil to make a lot of smoke.

Sorry to dig up such an old thread but I think it's worthwhile. Has anyone run the lines directly from the cooler to the turbo? Is that a bad idea? My reasoning being I am about to go with a high mount setup, and if I could use the cooler lines as the "link" from engine to turbo it would save me on buying extra hoses.

Do the 6x9's on the parcel shelf sit up or are they flush with the shelf? If the former are they flat or faced forwards? And what grilles do they have?

Pardon my ignorance, but can you please tell me why it looks different to the HKS SSQ BOV that I'm used to seeing pics of? Is it just because it's an older model, or have I got something completely wrong? Also how old is it and do you know up to what pressure it can handle?

It's not a factory setup, as I said in the original post. I already have a T04E with internal gate, but it has the 4 bolt GT style outlet with some sort of custom 2.5" dump into 3" front pipe which is certainly a rare combination as far as Skylines go. It's starting to wear out so I wanted it replaced before it dies completely. The cheapest and easiest option would be just to rebuild it, but I want a bit more power than it can provide and and I wanted to go to a ball bearing turbo to help reduce the lag. And besides, nothing worthwhile is ever easy A high-flowed factory turbo would probably be the ideal option if I still had the factory dump setup in place, but since I have to change that, and I've already bought the exhaust manifold, there's little sense in going back to the factory turbo unless someone gave me one for free or something.

If the turbo isn't on boost then it's not much hotter if at all than if it was just idling. In fact my motorcycle starts to heat up when stationary/idling, and cools down again at low rev cruising, so if you are driving home off boost, start your "turbo time" from the last time you put your foot down and it'll probably cool down quicker than going from foot-to-floor straight to idling in your garage. And like SK says, think of the extra bits of your car that need cooling off like brakes. I have the added benefit of having to manually lift my garage door. I leave it idling while doing this so by the time I've parked the car it's done plenty of cooling down and I then just switch the engine off. The car came with a timer but I never use it. If I knew where it was I'd remove it.

Ok I thought I would put this in here because it's nothing to do with getting more performance out of the car, it's about doing a certain amount of work at home to save money. This is the situation: I know how to remove my turbo and put it back on again and bleed the cooling system. However, I don't know how to make up a custom dump/front pipe, or angle-grind off the old cat and re-use it. So that means unless I am putting the exact same turbo back on in the exact same spot (and it's not a factory setup) I can't re-attach the exhaust. What I want to do, is get a new turbo and high-mount manifold, hook up all the oil and water lines, then get the car towed to a good exhaust shop to get the dump and front pipes made up, and possibly a new cat with bolt-on flanges instead of all being welded into one piece. I'm open to suggestions for which good but cheap exhaust shop in Sydney to use too. I'm sure I'll be able to put the new manifold and turbo on in my garage, however I'm sure I will have problems bleeding the cooling system without running the engine. Has anyone got any ideas? Would I be able to run the engine with the new turbo on even if there's no exhaust hanging off it? I'm not very confident of doing that, especially since the CO will be essenetially flooding straight into the engine bay and probably killing me slowly. I could just skip the bleeding of the cooling system, but then I'd have to take the car to a mechanic rather than a dedicated exhaust shop so that'd limit my options. On top of that, I've read about certain mechanics who don't even bleed it properly so I'd rather it was done properly myself. Another option I thought of was to drive it to the exhaust shop in the morning, and do the turbo swap right there and push the car into the workshop for the dump pipe fabrication. Or I could somehow work out the physical location and size of the exhaust outlet and get one made without testing it first (not a very safe choice though especially since I still need to grind off the old cat). Any help appreciated!

I think it's good to flood the topic with information. The more people that give ideas, the more variety people can use, and any thief reading through will have to remember 20 different places for 50 different cars. He's not going to go through each and every one to find the "trick" to stealing it. On the other hand if we only heard about the blown fuse one, anyone without an alarm and without any better ideas would probably do it, and the thief would be able to casually check every car for blown fuses and probably get a couple easily. It's probably best to use a combination of things. For example, pull a fuse as well as putting a kill switch in, or 2 kill switches in different areas. I've got 3 different things - club lock, alarm with starter kill, a separate 3 point immobiliser, and a kill switch. Sure you can always tow it but if the thief is determined nothing will stop him. The best defence I've found though is to not park it in dodgy areas. Also a good idea for the kill switch is to not necessarily have it as one of those metal toggle switches. Something that doesn't seem like a switch to the touch, like a you press. A friend has a "toggle" button which you can push up or down for on/off. If you were feeling around without knowing about it you probably wouldn't even notice it, it would feel like one of those plastic screws you use for keeping the kick panel on.

Is the manifold grade 304 or 321 stainless?

Sk, how much longer do you think you need to idle the car before the blanketed turbo is cool enough to shut the engine off? Or do you think it'll be roughly the same temperature with or without blanket after one cool off lap? Has anyone measured the external temperature of a housing after switching the engine off to see what it might be doing to the oil and bearings? Getting heat out of the engine bay is something I want to do to help preserve the whole left side of the engine bay. The padding under the bonnet was already peeling off above the turbo before I got the car.

I think the funniest thing about that pic is they had to stamp the word "TURBO" into the housing, just in case you're not sure what it actually is. Like "nah, it's really a turbo! honest! just read the letters!"

Don't worry too much about keeping your coolant below 100 degrees. Even if you use plain water it will go a fair bit higher than this because the system is under pressure and hence the boiling point is higher. On my motorcycle, the thermo fans don't kick in until it's well over 100 degrees, probably at around 105-108. I've been sitting in traffic in the middle of summer and it will get up to around 110 before it drops, but it always drops by this point and never overheats. My previous bike used to get up to around 115-118 on the hottest days. I think this is stupidly high because it heats up your legs via the exhaust and gets uncomfortable, but apparently it's fairly normal on sports bikes. By all this I'm not saying to aim for a thermo cutoff of 120+ degrees, but you have a lot more headroom than you think if you find yourself overheating in traffic.

An easy way to see if it is possibly pinging on deceleration is just keep an eye on the sensor readout for injector duty. It should instantly drop to 0% until you hit the fuel cut off setting (usually around 1000rpm) where it will kick back in so it can idle. If it's at 0%, it can't be pinging because there's no fuel to ping. Unless it's a leaky injector. This isn't something I would shrug off as "it's probably X being the cause". I've had a rattly cat before and it didn't sound like pinging exactly, and I could tell it was from under the car not the engine. It may well be the cat, but it won't take much effort to double check.

Sorry if I sound like a n00b but ever since I got my car my charcoal cannister was there but never hooked up. Where should it connect to?

Check pm