JimX

Question regarding the wiring up of these pumps. As I understand it at present, the factory pump doesn't pump out at full capacity all the time, it waits until you open the throttle up before giving it a full earth. There's another thread here that talks about giving the factory pump a constant earth all the time to help with stalling problems at idle. Should the bigger Bosch pumps be hooked up in the same way or should we hardwire them to a constant earth? I'm mostly concerned with burning the pump out too early by running it constantly at full capacity. But if that's what they were designed to do (unlike the factory pump it seems) then that's what I'll do Edit: Oh yeah, thanks Sydneykid! I didn't even notice you had the part numbers in there at first, it kind of blended in at the end

Do all Nissan dealers charge the same price? Because I got a quote for a plenum gasket from Ryde Nissan, they wanted $85 for it, and they wanted the full amount up-front so they could order it from Japan, and it would arrive in 4-6 weeks! Edit: Which Nissan dealers (esp. in Sydney) are Skyline-friendly? ie, those that will keep some parts in stock, and will know what the hell I'm talking about when I ask for something like a Skyline key, or a bonnet strut clip, or a headlight assembly, etc.

Where can I get a decent key blank from for a reasonable price? So far all I can find is a Nismo blank for about $100, and a GTR blank for about $60 (I think). I don't have a GTR otherwise I would get a GTR blank. Are there any other options? I really don't wanna fork over $100 just for a spare key, but nor do I want to buy the $5 generic type you get at the local key cutter's. Even the normal Skyline key (without remote button) would be good enough, if it were relatively cheap. Nissan Australia probably want to charge me $100 for it and make me wait 4 weeks for it to arrive from Japan

If the car was running at normal operating temperatures the last time it was run, then you can drain it cold (it will just take longer than if hot). As long as the engine was hot the last time the oil was up around the top of the engine, all the crap in it will flow freely down into the sump after you switch the engine off. From then it doesn't really matter how long you wait until you drain it. However, there will still be a few more contaminants in the sump when it's cold, but not usually enough to be an issue. I still prefer to drain it hot for this reason. If you run the engine for a few seconds when cold and then switch it off, you'll have the most crap possible around the upper regions of the engine so if you're going to start the engine before the drain make sure it's fairly warm before you drain it.

I just got a response from the guys at Zoom, they told me the fuel pump article is in issue 36, and that it's no longer available Can someone that has that issue please scan the article for all us fuel pump upgraders?

UAS sell a Malpassi unit for around $290, so I'm guessing you can get them a lot cheaper than that elsewhere

INASNT, can't remember It just seemed to be something in the back of my head that I vaguely recall from somewhere. Let's just wait to see what Sydneykid can do for us

Thanks for that info Browny, but after reading the thread I just have more questions The 044 seems to be too big for my application, if the cheaper 984 can flow up to 600hp. Even 600hp is way beyond the scope of anything I want to do with the car in the near future, so should I be looking at getting the 984 instead and save myself $100? Are all these pumps pretty much the same size and shape, or do some require more or less work to fit and get working properly? Edit: 'nother question - Am I getting an internal or external pump here?

Ben, where are you getting the rising rate regulator from? Where does it actually go? At the tank or the fuel rail or somewhere in between? Blind_Elk, I've emailed them and am waiting for a response. Off-hand do you know roughly what's involved? Like, do I have to cut a section out of the tank, make an adapter, drill new mounting holes, etc? How much would a performance shop charge to do all this for me? I'm pretty handy with a spanner, but working around fuel makes me nervous

I've done a search and found a few answers, but not all. Apologies if these questions have already been answered but keep in mind that there were a lot more to begin with that I would have also asked if I didn't search Ok, it seems the general consensus is that once you hit around 220rwkw, you'll need to upgrade your fuel pump, and possibly the regulator. I am looking at getting a Bosch 044 for this reason. The most important question I need to ask is - What is the part number? The reason I ask is because I have a friend who *may* be able to get me wholesale prices, because his company deals with Bosch. But since it's mostly NOT for car stuff (mostly power tools and other electrics), he'll need a part number rather than just ordering a "Bosch 044 fuel pump". My next question is would I also need to upgrade my regulator at the same time? If so, what should I be looking at getting, and roughly how much should I be spending? I don't care about brand names, as long as it does the job I'll be happy with a cheapie (but preferably new) item. Oh, and lastly - are these things relatively easy to fit yourself? Do they bolt straight up or do they need an adaptor of sorts? Do I need to pull the fuel tank out to fit everything?

Heya Sydneykid In my experience you're right about the injector high-flowing, it costs around $200 per injector to do from Croydon. This is with you supplying the injectors too. However the cheapest injectors I remember seeing recently are 550cc SARD ones for about $160 I think. Are you saying you can get even bigger injectors for closer to $100? Where from?

Hmm, is that $900 inclusive of cutting a hole in the chassis, running the extra intercooler plumbing, re-locating the bov, supplying a new throttle cable (the old one is too short), etc? Because I got quoted around $600 in labour alone to fit my own custom plenum on including all of the above. Is he only selling his own for $300, or does Mark just not like me?

Go to Whiteline in Minto. They should be a little cheaper and have a better reputation.

Is Autosol too harsh to use on the headlight plastic?

Jlnewton, sorry for the delay in replying, but the Skyline forums seem to be not emailing me on every thread that I'm subscribed to Anyway, I really like the Bilsteins shocks and Whiteline springs. Handling is muchly improved over stock, the setup being not too soft or hard for road use. I still get a bit of body roll on the stock swaybars, but it's only about as much as my Commodore did after I put some really bigass swaybars on it. I'm guessing it'll handle like it's on rails once I can afford new swaybars. Some people prefer the adjustable Konis to the Bilsteins, in fact I was looking for Konis in preference. But at the time Whiteline couldn't get them for an R33 so I went with the Bilsteins and I don't regret it.

I bought it from some mob in Queensland who keep a stock of them. They sent it overnight with Express Post.

Pawley, I think the UAS ones are made exactly the same way as Rowdyr32's are. That would mean they have like a $150 markup on them. Which I guess isn't over the top, but if you look around enough you can probably get it done cheaper (let's all ask Rowdyr32's mate if he wants to do some more for us )

Rowdyr32 that is a good idea, but where do we get a reliable design from? I wouldn't know who to take it to in Sydney either.

Putting in a set of new Bilstein shocks and Whiteline lowered springs was one of the first things I did when I got my R33. It takes a fairly long time if you haven't done it before, so set aside a couple of hours on a sunny morning on the weekend. First thing to do is remove the back seat and parcel shelf. Then put the rear of the car onto axle stands and take off the rear wheels. Go back in the car and take off the top 2 nuts. These will not be tight at all. Take the lower bolt out of each shock from under the car. Warning: This will be VERY tight. If it's not, then it's worked loose so make sure you do up it up VERY TIGHTLY when putting it back in. Next gently knock the shocks sideways and off the lower mounting. Be prepared for the heavy shock to fall out. Maybe don't take the top nuts off completely but loosen them a lot so that it will stay in place when the bottom bolt is off. Be very careful you don't bend/break something though, the top studs are very weak. The whole spring and coil will just drop down and you can pull it out. There is a slight amount of tension on the spring but nothing you can't push against with your hands so you won't need a spring compressor. Be careful though. Installation is the reverse. Grease up the lower mounts a bit before installing, it will make it easier to slip them on and probably help prevent future squeaking. I find it easier to get someone to do up the top 2 nuts loosely to hold the shock in place while I hold it from below, and then align it up on the lower mounting. Do up the bottom bolt TIGHT and the top ones not very much at all. Like, putting a fair bit of pressure on the spanner, but holding the spanner near the centre. Even then you can still bust the studs, as I did. I put a little too much pressure on mine and snapped one of the studs. The fix was to drill the broken bit out then put a small bolt in its place with the same thread. You don't wanna hafta do this! The fronts are similar, though I think you can get away with not removing the wheels. I can't remember exactly, it was last year I did all this Depending on the springs, you might need to put some muscle behind the shocks when you're installing them to get them onto the lower studs. But it's only a couple of centimetres and shouldn't be a problem for anyone unless you're a complete wimp Edit: I think that the top front shock nuts/studs can handle a bit more tension than the rear. But don't do them up too tightly! The bottom ones are the ones that need all the tension.

Can you post a pic of the plenum? Who made it?

Hmm. Well I could angle it upwards slightly to get around the height problem (if there is one). Is this going to affect the sound at all or should it be perpendicular to the surface it's pointing towards?

Now, before anyone says it's too big and I should get something smaller, I already have the 15" sub. I just need to make a new box for it, because the box that it currently sits in was for my old Commodore and is too big for the Skyline. I am just wondering where I should mount the new box, and what direction it should face. Am I going to be able to build one big enough and still have it fit in the boot? I'm hoping to built it as square as possible so that I can experiment with sidewards/rearwards facing. With the Commodore box I only had one option, and that was for it to face forwards.

I just used the generic heavy duty limited slip stuff they sell at GP Auto. Cost about $20 for 1 litre. By generic I don't mean it was crap, I just can't remember the brand. $20/litre isn't cheap

Four litres for your diff?! Not even a Ford 9" takes anywhere near 4 litres!

I've had this problem on a Mini, it was just that the gear which flicks out into the flywheel had become clogged up with dirt and grease, which stopped it from retracting. Yours may just need a clean. Take it out and clean it with some mild solvent and see what happens. If that's no good then just ring around the local grey import wreckers for a new (2nd hand) one.