rb2?

i agree 100% with you and the fact that my engine was left on lean was cuz of limited coin and was a slapper. this next build will be a smarter approach. I HOPE

i would buy a 44mm gate or bigger. the 38mm is gonna spike boost and is too small for ur power goals and size of your turbo

its all in the tune alrite, i was running a garret 35/40 .82 rear with 560cc injectors (evo's i think) with haltech and 500hp walbro external pump.. it made just over 300kw and was at 17psi.. and lasted 3000kms before detonating and breaking 3 pistons. its bcuz it ran a bit lean after 6000rpm because the fuel pump couldnt handle the jandle. so i suggest u make sure it has a good air and fuel ratio mixture , upgrade anything that needs upgrading for it to run good. that was my mistake :< my 2c's anyway Now its forgie time for me baby!

did you check and change thermostat, waterpump etc, before putting motor back in? my s2 rb25det was overheating aswell when i put it from engine importers, had a cracked thermostat. My 2 cents anyway

hey matt , were you running a crank collar? OE main ends or branded? thats if your expecting it to spin a bearing

wouldnt mind actually, im gonna start mine soon, so we can bump stuff of 1 another?

don't forget wee NZ down here, we do have some tuff cars lol here's Andre's R33 with rb30 built by Rob @ R.i.p.s gotta love that sound

yeah im after a reliable build, ive been doing a lot of researching and brainstorming aswel tryin spend the money wisely. Had another talk to the workshop that offered me the price but not quite 100% on his 2nd bits, as i have been through that path already. No sunset on the horizon yet, i just wonna spend the money on all the right places guys...

Hey! appreciating all the input guys, yesterday i was talking to my workshop who built my 1st car and said he can provide me with a reliable 550hp RB30DET for just a nudge over 5k, he explained he'd bore the block, new bearings, gaskets, belts, rebuilt Turbonetics or Garrett turbo and Haltech ecu tuned. So im deciding on the weither to take him up on the offer?? To be honest im pretty excited about this, as i have never driven a car with more that 400hp. I WILL KEEP YOU PEEPS POSTED ! P.s. why dont you people ever go on about how 280kw or more feels in a car, i would like to know Thank you very muchus

did you read my 1st post? i have rb25 in my car already, and other shit il need main bits i need are the block , turbo, ecu, tune, gasket and maybe recon the block? i could always ask nana for 1k hahaha

Nah mate your alright , my apologies iv have gtr injectors, walboro fuel pump, exedy clutch, rb25gearbox, thats all i can think of that could be moved over, what you think now

Hey guys, newb here again. Ive got 5k and im wanting to build a reliable rb30 for my 21st and i need your guys help. My car has already set-up for drift with a cage etc and everything to get it sideways but its time to get more power and improve my skill. As far as i know rb30 blocks can be bought for around 150$, and i already am running an rb25det in my r32, of which i can submit parts of to my rb30, ive talk to a few shops which say this can be done, but like my past experience it helps to get knowledge of people who have gone down this track. Any help would be more than appreciated P.S. I want a mean 21st present , so please help

That cleared my miss thoughts, ive been running an rb25 turbo without them for a while, guess it couldnt be good for the ceramic wheel..

IMO get rid of the waterlines, i dont see a point for them, when there's hot water running through them all the time. As for where it ends up is behind the intake manifold, undo the 2 bolts on the head, if the hose doesnt come off you can always chop a bit hoes off, rust normally cramps it and its hard to remove.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/5332707/Nissan-S...3-engine-manual there dont waste ur time MBS206 lol

so was mine.. try hitting it in, it should cramp in, thats after youve put some sealant on

hey waffles, i used a copper mallet and universal gasket , and hit it in till it was a firm fitt, should cramp in and it works fine to date Hope this helps

when i did mine, the powersteering was different, might not be the case for you. i just unbolted the mounts of the rb20 and bolt em to the 25, saves you removing the powersteering and lines etc etc. and using rb25 belt works mint. And yea i got my loom done here in nz for 350$ mint ae

cheers guys, again. I will do as soon as i get my tools sorted. Tom

hey i did a compression test... and holyf*^# 1st 0psi 2nd 149psi 3rd 139psi 4th 139psi 5th 129psi 6th 122psi plss help im such a newbie at this stuff Thanks Tom

my shitter

cheers guys , truly appreciate it. I'll do a proper test, especially see if its leaking on intake or exhaust side.

Thanks for your reply. Um all the coipacks are mint as ae. And its the 1st cylinder from the radiator side. I did a 'quick compression test' without a compression tester valve by jst feeling how much compression there was in all cylinders by placing my hand over them, and i could definently feel a huge drop in the one cylinder compared to the rest. It could be a valve, how do i be sure of it though? Thanks Tom

hey guys im after a solution for my rb20 we replaced a blown head gasket a few nights ago and placed everything back on the engine, turned it on and all of a sudden its idling weird. We know that the timings out but that can be fixed. We had checked everything before it went back on. The plugs, coils, torque settings, camshaft placement etc, etc. Unfortunately after a quick compression test, my mate found out that the front bore wasnt getting enough compression. What could it be? Has anybody had the same problem before, i cant afford to take it into an mechanic atm? Soo please help Cheers Tom

hey thanks duncan. ill try it this weekend cheers